Cultivation of gourds in open ground. Gourds: how to grow melon, pumpkin, watermelon

Watermelon, melon, pumpkin are plants of universal use.

Their fruits are rich in sugar, organic acids, vitamins, salts of iron, phosphorus, potassium, as well as substances that contribute to the regulation of many physiological processes in the human body. By the content of vitamins, gourds are not inferior to fruits, and by the content of carotene (provitamin A) they are several times superior to red carrots.

A distinctive feature of melons is thermophilicity. Plants develop normally at fairly high soil and air temperatures, with an abundance of sunlight.

Watermelon and melon seeds begin to germinate at a temperature of 14-16, and pumpkin seeds - at +13. With the most intensive germination (25-30), seedlings appear on the fifth or sixth day.

Three to five days after germination at an average daily temperature of 18X, the first true leaf begins to form, then after the same time, the second true leaf, etc. After five or six true leaves, the plant begins to branch, "beat off the whip." Flowers appear five to six days after the start of branching under favorable conditions.

During the growing season, watermelon needs more heat than melon and pumpkin. However, melon is more resistant to heat. Pumpkin is more cold-resistant than watermelon and melon.

At the same time, excessively high temperatures have a negative effect on the cultivation of gourds. At high temperatures, as a rule, the relative humidity of the air decreases. Under these conditions, the ovules are not completely or not fertilized at all, the fruits are not tied.

The optimum temperature for flowering and fertilization of gourds is 18-20X at night and 20-25°C during the day.
Melon plants are very sensitive to low temperatures. When it is lowered to 12°C, the growth and development of plants is delayed, and below 10°C it is completely suspended. Both spring and autumn frosts are detrimental to gourds.
gourds considered to be drought tolerant. This is explained by the adaptability of the plants themselves (powerful root system, dissected leaves covered with hairs, etc.). In fact, melon plants, especially pumpkins, consume a lot of water.
Thus, these crops need a long frost-free period from sowing to harvest, light soils, sufficient space for the development of a large mass of vines and leaves, a lot of solar heat and light, soil moisture and dry air.
gourds, especially watermelon, they react strongly to the relief, preferring elevated, gently sloping, well-heated and illuminated areas. Here the plants grow better, the fruits ripen earlier, their taste and marketability improve.
Placing crops in low places is extremely risky. In such areas, as a rule, the soil is very compacted, it warms up longer and worse, often a lot of wireworm accumulates in it, there is a real threat of damage (primarily watermelon) by Fusarium wilt.
The best predecessors for melons are perennial and annual grasses, winter cereals, corn and vegetables. It is not necessary to sow melons on melons in order to avoid the development of fungal diseases. You can return to the areas of melon again in at least four to five years.
Well gourds respond well to the use of organic and mineral fertilizers. Under the influence of fertilizers, the growth of lashes and leaves increases, the number of flowers increases, the setting improves, and, consequently, the number of fruits per plant increases and their quality improves.

The greatest effect is given by the application of fertilizers for autumn plowing per 1 m2: 2-3 kg of manure, 20-25 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of ammonium sulfate, 10-15 g of potassium salt. .The plants are fed with slurry, bird droppings or mineral fertilizers - the first time in the phase of three or four leaves, and the second - during flowering.
Holes are made around the plants and 1 liter of solution is added (bird droppings or slurry are diluted with water in the ratio: bird droppings - 1:12, slurry - 1:5), the dose of mineral fertilizers: 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate, 7-8 g of potassium chloride and 15-20 g of superphosphate in the form of an aqueous extract per bucket of water, and preferably 20-25 g of crystal.

The next day after top dressing, the plants spud.

The main tillage for melons is carried out in the same way as for other vegetable crops.

Deep autumn plowing (digging) makes it possible to accumulate moisture and mineral nutrients, reduce the infestation of crops, creates favorable conditions for the powerful development of the root system and is an effective means of combating pests and diseases.
Light loamy and sandy soils are cultivated in spring. The plot is harrowed, before sowing it is good to loosen to a depth of 8-10 cm.
It is extremely important when cultivating melons to quickly get friendly shoots. To do this, it is necessary to carry out all measures for the preparation of seeds in a timely and high-quality manner.

The most effective are soaking, germination, cold hardening, as well as seed treatment with various preparations.
before sowing, the seeds are preheated for five to six days in a well-heated room or near heaters with a temperature of 25-30 ° C. This technique increases the energy of germination and germination of seeds, accelerates the formation of female flowers on plants, enhances growth, and accelerates the development of plants.
For earlier seedlings, soak the seeds in warm water. Seeds are poured into a cloth bag and dipped in warm water (60 degrees for 4-5 minutes, then removed, allowed to drain and left in a warm room.

Watermelon seeds are kept at room temperature for two days, melon seeds - no more than a day.
The best way to prepare seeds for sowing is to combine heating with their germination. After warming up (4-5 minutes), the seeds are placed in a damp cloth and kept at a temperature of 25-30°C for two to three days until seedlings appear.

Sprouted (hunched) seeds are planted in warm, moist soil.
Good results are obtained by soaking seeds in solutions of trace elements (manganese, boron, molybdenum) of 0.05% concentration for 16 hours. A mandatory method of preparing seeds for sowing is their dressing with TMTD at the rate of 5 g per 1 kg of seeds.
The seeding rate depends on the method of sowing and the density of the plants. According to cultures, it is per 1 mg: watermelon 0.4-0.5 g (6-8 seeds per well), melon 0.2-0.4 g (6-8 seeds per well), pumpkin, zucchini and squash 0 .5-0.8 g (4-6 seeds per well).

Usually, sowing of melons begins when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is not lower than 12-14°C. In the south of the region this is the third decade of April or the beginning of May, in the north and east - the first decade of May. However, it should be borne in mind that in some years the calendar dates sometimes shift significantly. Depending on the weather, the difference can be two to three weeks.

Sowing time is also affected by the exposure of the site and the type of soil.
On the southern and southwestern slopes, the sowing dates come somewhat earlier than in the areas of the northern and northeastern exposures, and on light sandy and sandy loamy soils earlier than on heavy soils.
Zucchini, squash and pumpkin are sown first, as they are more cold-resistant, then melon and watermelon. The seeding depth is 3-7 cm. It depends on the weather conditions, the type of soil and the degree of dryness of its upper layer.
In dry, warm weather on light soils or with a strong drying of the top layer of the earth, seeds are sown to a greater depth than in cold weather, heavy soils, or with a slight drying of the top layer of the earth. When sowing seeds in holes, it is better to put them at different depths.

It is important to determine the feeding areas of the melon sowing scheme. Taking into account the natural conditions of the South of Russia, the feeding areas for crops will be as follows: watermelon - 2 × 1 m, 1.4 × 1 m, 1.4x melon - 1.4 × 1 m, 1.4 × 0.7 m, pumpkins - 1 2×1 m, 1.4×1.4 m, 1.4×1 m, zucchini and bushes pumpkins and squash - 1.4×0.7 m, 0.9×1 0.7×0.7 m, one plant in the nest of each culture.
Gourd care includes inter-row cultivation, loosening, breaking through rows and holes, powdering and pinching, as well as weed control, pests and diseases, top dressing, watering, etc. seeds in a moist layer of soil, preferably with water.

The main conditions for obtaining a high yield of gourds are to keep the crops clean from weeds, and the soil in a loose state. For this, two or three inter-row work is carried out: one when the first leaves appear in the plants to a depth of 8-10 cm; friend with top dressing to a depth of 6-8 cm in the moon phase.

Subsequent treatments are carried out as necessary until the row spacing is closed. At the same time, weeding is done in the rows. At the first weeding, the plants are thinned out, leaving three or four healthy and powerful ones in the hole.

The second (final) thinning is carried out in the phase of three or four leaves and one or two plants are left in the hole. All operations for the care of crops must be carried out strictly on time.

When weeding and loosening in rows good results gives hilling of plants - the soil is poured under the cotyledon leaves.
This technique creates a favorable air regime of the soil, plants form additional roots, and their nutrition improves.
Melons are very responsive to watering.. The greatest need for watermelon and pumpkin in water is noted during the period of flowering and fruit formation.
education. However, they react negatively to excessive soil moisture. Under the condition of a normal year in terms of precipitation, three or four irrigations are sufficient on average with a norm of 60-70 liters per 1 m2. In wet years, irrigation is inefficient.
According to the Krasnodar Research Institute of Vegetable and Potato Growing, it is recommended to carry out irrigation: the first one is water-charging (with a small accumulation of moisture); the second - in the phase of two or three true leaves; the third - during flowering and the fourth - during the period of fruit growth.
One of the conditions for the cultivation of melons- powder whips. The wind easily turns and twists the whips, while the leaves break off, which negatively affects the growth and development of plants. Before closing the lashes, a knot is sprinkled that is 3/4 of the length from the base of the lash or shoot. The sprinkled area is lightly pressed.
Pinching is a laborious technique, therefore, it is not widely used, but it protects the ovary from shedding, increases the size of the fruit and increases the yield of melons. The first time it is recommended to pinch the top of the plant in the phase of five or six true leaves, which stimulates the formation of fruit-bearing side shoots, the second - all growth points at the beginning of fruit set.

The formation of fruits is a rare, but very effective technique. With the size of the ovary with a goose egg, it is set with the stalk up. All sides of the fetus develop evenly. The fruits acquire the correct presentation, the quality of their pulp improves.
To lengthen the period of consumption of gourds, you can use early-ripening varieties, various methods of seed preparation, thickened sowing, pinching lashes, irrigation, enhanced phosphorus-potassium nutrition, etc.
But the most effective techniques are the seedling method of growing melons, growing them under temporary film shelters, and especially the combination of these techniques. Seedlings are grown in greenhouses or greenhouses after planting early cabbage in pots or sods 8 × 8 cm in size.

The temperature in greenhouses is maintained at 20-25°C during the day and 15-18°C at night. Water moderately, but not often with warm water, avoiding excessive waterlogging.
After the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving one plant in a pot. The first top dressing is carried out with a solution of mineral fertilizers 5-8 days after germination (5 g of ammonium sulfate, 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt are dissolved in 10 l of water), the second and third top dressing - with an interval of 7-8 days (per 10 l of water 20 g of ammonium sulfate, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride). 5 liters of solution are spent on the greenhouse frame.
Before planting in the ground, the seedlings are gradually hardened off. A few days before landing, in the absence of a threat of a cold snap, it is not closed around the clock. The best seedling age at planting: watermelon 25-30 days, melon 20-25 days.
Higher yields of early production (by 6-8 times compared to open ground) can be obtained by using film shelters. Sowing is carried out 20-25 days earlier than the optimal time. The sowing scheme and feeding area are the same as for open ground. An even greater effect is achieved by combining these two methods.
Protected ground (hotbeds and greenhouses) is an important source of early melon production. For its cultivation, the most productive, with high quality fruits, early-ripening varieties of watermelon and melon are used.

Varieties of watermelon

Twinkle. Early maturing, growing season 65-75 days. The fruits are spherical, with a smooth surface, black-green in color. The bark is thin. The flesh is bright red, granular, juicy, sweet. The content of total sugar is 6-8%. Seeds small, brown. Transportability and keeping quality are weak. Productivity is 2-3 kg per 1 l2 (200-300 kg per hundred square meters).
Nice. Early maturing, fruitful (up to 3.5 kg from 1 l2). Vegetation period 70-75 days. The fruits are round-oval, smooth. The background color is light green. The pattern is narrow green stripes with smeared edges. The pulp is raspberry, granular, sweet, juicy. The bark is thick. Seeds are small, dark brown, speckled. Sugar content up to 9%. Transportability and keeping quality are high. The variety is especially valued for its resistance to Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. Promising for all areas of the Krasnodar Territory.
Atamansky. Early ripe, vegetation period 70-80 days. Productivity is 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 m3*. The fruits are round-elliptical. The surface is smooth, light green with green filiform stripes. The pulp is red, tender, juicy, sweet. The content of total sugar is 8.0-8.5%. Transportability and keeping quality are good. Anthracnose and fusarium are affected to a weak degree.
Shironinsky. Mid-season, vegetation period 90-95 days. Productivity is 2-3 kg from 1 m2. The fruits are round. The surface is smooth and white. The flesh is pink, granular, sweet. Total sugar content 8.5%. Transportability is good, anthracnose and fusarium are affected moderately.
Early Kuban. Mid-early, vegetation period 75-90 days. Productivity is 2 kg per 1 m. Fruits are spherical and obtuse-elliptical. The surface is smooth, slightly segmented, light green with dark green stripes. The flesh is pink, tender-loony, sweet. Total sugar content 8%. Relatively resistant to anthracnose and bacteriosis.
Astrakhan. Mid-season, vegetation period 85-95 days. Productivity is 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 m2. The fruits are spherical, slightly segmented. The background color is green with dark green spiny stripes. The pulp is thick pink, coarse-grained, juicy, sweet. The content of total sugar is 7 - 8.5%.
Transportability and keeping quality is average. Fusarium wilt and anthracnose are affected to a moderate degree.
Rose of the Southeast. Mid-early, vegetative period 70-80 days. Relatively resistant to Fusarium. The surface of the fruit is smooth or slightly segmented. The pattern is wide dark green stripes, the background is light green. The bark is medium, flexible. The flesh is carmine-red, granular, high sweetness. Total sugar up to 8-9.5%. Seeds are yellow-gray, with a smooth surface, not suitable for storage and long-distance transportation. Productivity is 2-3 kg from 1 m2.

Favorite of Krasnodar (King of Kuban). Mid-season, vegetative period of 80 days. Anthracnose resistant. The fruits are spherical, smooth, the background is light green. Pattern - wide scalloped stripes of dark green color with smeared edges. The flesh is red with a pink tint, watery, sweet, juicy. The content of obi sugar is up to 8%. Seeds of medium size are oval, brown and light brown, smooth. Fruits have good keeping quality and transportability. Productivity is 2.5-3 kg per 1 m2.
Melitopol-142. Average term of maturing, vegetative period of 90-96 days. High-yielding (3-3.5 kg per 1 m2), transportable weight, relatively long-lived, the surface of the fruit is slightly segmented Bark pattern - dark green with blue, prickly stripes, green background. The flesh is intense red, granular, very good taste. The content of total sugar is up to 8-9.5%. Seeds are large, smooth, red.

Extraordinary. Mid-season, vegetation period 80-90 days. The fruits are oval, cylindrical, smooth, with a dark green rind. The bark is medium, flexible. The flesh is red with a raspberry tint, granular, sweet. Total sugar content up to 9%. Seeds are large, dark brown, speckled. Good storage and transportability. Fusarium wilt, anthracnose and powdery mildew are affected to a weak degree. Yield 3 kg per 1 m2.

Melon varieties

Of the varieties of melon zoned in the region, the following are recommended:
Golden. Mid-early, high-yielding (2-2.5 kg per 1 m2). From mass shoots to the first collection 80-85 days. The fruits are round, large and medium, yellow-orange, in a grid. The pulp is white, thick, tender, sweet, high taste. Cream seeds, medium. Transportability is good. The keeping quality is average. Works well in protected ground.
Lorisovskaya (Hybrid-251). Early ripe, productive (more than 2 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 60-70 days. The fruits are round, good presentation, large, yellow-lemon, in the grid and without it. The pulp is white, dense, thick, tender, sweet, good taste. Seeds are medium, white. Transportability and keeping quality are weak. Recommended for local consumption. Promising for the North Caucasus.
Lemon yellow. Early maturing, medium yield (up to 2 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 75-80 days. The fruits are medium, flattened, with a segmented surface. The bark is hard, lemon-yellow in color. The pulp is dense, white, sweet. Seeds are medium cream. Keeping quality and transportability are satisfactory.
Kolkhoz Woman-749/753. Mid-season, low yield (1 - 1.5 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 80-90 days. The fruits are spherical, small, with a smooth surface. Coloration is orange-yellow. The bark is hard. The pulp is thin, white, dense, very sweet. Seeds are medium, pale cream. Transportable, lightweight.
Early-133. Early ripe, productive (up to 2 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 60-70 days. Fruits of good presentation, round-oval, large, yellow, in the grid and without it. The pulp is white, thick, crumbly-dense, tender, sweet, good taste. Seeds are medium cream. Transportable. Recommended for early production through seedlings and protected ground.
Dessert-5. Medium early, productive (2 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 80-90 days. The fruits are round-oval with a weakly segmented surface, the mesh is fine. The background color is pale yellow, the color of the ribbons is lettuce. The pulp is white, juicy, high taste. Seeds medium, yellow. Keeping quality and transportability are weak.
Ili. Early ripe, productive (up to 2 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 71 - 83 days. Fruits are round-flattened in shape with a slightly segmented surface. The color of the bark is yellow-orange. Drawing - ribbons of orange color, no mesh. The pulp is white, medium thickness, tender, sweet, juicy. Seeds are medium, elongated, creamy, smooth. Transportability and keeping quality of fruits are poor. Appointment - for local consumption.
Samara. Early ripe, productive (2.5-3 kg per 1 m2). Vegetation period 75-90 days. The fruits are oval, with a slightly segmented surface, the mesh is sparse. The background color is yellow, of varying intensity. The bark is thin, smooth. The pulp is thick, white, tender, melting, very sweet. Contains up to 8 - 9% sugars. Seeds are medium, smooth, white. Transportability and keeping quality are average. Anthracnose and powdery mildew are affected to an average degree, bacteriosis - weakly. Appointment - for local consumption.
Golyanka. Early ripe. Productivity 1 - 1.5 kg per 1 m2. The fruits are round-oval. The surface is smooth, orange, in a weak grid. The pulp is white, dense, sweet. Total sugar content 7%. Transportability is good. Powdery mildew is severely affected.
Natalina. Mid-early. Vegetation period 65-80 days. Productivity 1 - 1.5 kg per 1 m2. The fruits are spherical. The surface is smooth, yellow, in a grid. The pulp is white, medium density, sweet. Dry matter content 8%. Transportability is good. Medium-resistant to powdery mildew.
Slavia. Mid-season, vegetation period 90-100 days. Productivity is 2.5-3 kg per 1 m2. The fruits are oval. The surface is smooth, gray-green with a bronze tint, in a grid. The pulp is white, granular, weakly crispy, tender, juicy, sweet. The content of total sugar is 11-12%. Transportability and lying-bone are high. Resistant to extreme environmental conditions. Weakly affected by powdery mildew.

Pumpkin varieties

In conditions. Kuban recommended the following varieties of pumpkin:
Dining room winter A-5. Late-ripening, growing season 136 days. The fruits are flat-round, with a segmented surface. The bark is light gray, the flesh is dense, orange, sweet, the seeds are large, glossy, yellow. They ripen in bed. Transportable. Yield 2-2.5 kg per 1 mg.
Marble. Late-ripening, for table use, fruitful (2.5-3 kg per 1 mj). The growing season is 136 days. The fruits are medium (5-6 kg), flattened. The surface is wrinkly-segmented, tuberculate. The bark is gray and dark gray with marble-like speckles. The pulp is intense orange, thick, firm, crispy, very sweet, tasty. Seeds are large, yellow-orange. Very lezhky - a shelf life of eight to ten months.
Azure. Late-ripening, vegetative period 110-120 days. Yield 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 mg. The fruits are flattened, with a wrinkled and segmented surface, dark gray with a brown tint. The pulp is orange, thick, dense, crispy, sweet. Dry matter content 16-20%, total sugar 8-12%, carotene 14-20 mg%. Dining appointment. Transportability and keeping quality are high.
Winter sweet. Late ripening (110-140 days). Universal use - for fodder and table purposes. Yield 1.5-2 kg per 1 mg. The fruits are flattened, segmented, tuberculate. The surface is dark grey. The pulp is orange, thick, dense. The content of total sugar is 6%, carotene is 1 mg%. Moderately resistant to powdery mildew.
Root-1. Early maturing, universal purpose, fruitful (4-5 kg ​​per 1 m2) Vegetation period 90-95 days. The fruit is flat-round, medium-sized, weakly segmented. The bark is light gray and grey. The pulp is thick, medium density, yellow-orange. Seeds are large and white. Transport white. The fruits are stored for two to three months.
Large-fruited-1. Mid-season, forage purposes, productive (3.5-4 kg per m2). The growing season is 110-115 days? The fruits are large, slightly flattened. PS surface weakly segmented. The bark is gray with pink spots. The pulp is thick, egg-yellow, medium density. Lightweight, transportable.

BOS. Mid-late ripening (110-120 days of fodder use. Productivity is 3.5-4 kg per 1 m2. Fruits are medium-sized, segmented. The surface is gray with medium-sized pink spots. The pulp is orange-yellow of medium thickness (4-6 cm), loose, slightly sweet. Contents dry matter 7.5-8.5, carotene 2-3 mg.
Vitamin. Late-ripening, fodder value, productive (4-5 kg ​​per 1 m2), high-carotene. Vegetation period 130 days Fruits are large and medium, oval and oblong-oval, orange and dark orange with a green pattern in the form of a grid and a heel. The flesh is red-orange, tender. Seeds are medium, dirty cream, with a scar. Transportable, lightweight.
Muscat. Late-ripening, forage purposes, productive (3.5-4 kg per 1 m2). The growing season is 130-135 days. The fruits are medium, irregularly ovoid. The fruit surface is slightly segmented. The rind is orange-yellow, with an indistinct grid pattern. The flesh is red-orange.

Prikubanskaya. Late-ripening, vegetation period 110-130 days. Yield 4.5 kg per 1 m3*. The fruits are cylindrical in shape with a thickening towards the flower end in the form of a club, where a small seed chamber is located. The surface is smooth with orange bark. The pulp is red-orange, dense, tender. Dry matter content 10-12%, total sugar 6-8%, carotene 16-18 mg%. The lightness is good. Universal purpose. Resistant to extreme environmental conditions.

Harvest gourds as they ripen.
The ripeness of a watermelon is determined by the drying of the tendril in the axil of the leaf near the stalk; loss of haze on the surface of the fruit and the acquisition of gloss, lightening the pattern; by a dull sound when struck with a click (for the error-free use of these signs, it is necessary to have practical skills).
The ripeness of melon fruits is determined by the change in color of the bark from green to yellow, fragrant smell, easy separation of the fruit from the stalk.
The maturity of pumpkin fruits is determined by the dried and corky stalk. It is usually harvested in one go before frost.

I will share my experience
gymnosperm gourd- a very rare vegetable, the seeds of which do not have a peel, are in a thin film, do not require peeling, it is easy to make gozinaki, halva, cookies from them. Pumpkin is cultivated on any soil. The lashes reach three meters. It bears fruit in 3 - 5 pieces, and in each pumpkin there are 200 - 300 seeds.

Gymnospermous pumpkin belongs to the hard-barked variety of pumpkins, it usually has a very strong bark with orange-green stripes, yellow-orange flesh, depending on the variety, sweet or insipid.
I grow five varieties. My sweetest two varieties are Cinderella with a flat-round fruit shape, very sweet pulp and black seeds and Gymnosperm improved(also has a flat-round shape, but the seeds are light blue).

Other varieties - Gymnosperm and Gymnosperm plus- have a rounded-oblong shape with yellow-green stripes, the first is of a very insipid taste, the second is of a sweet-insipid taste, the third is gymnospermous zucchini - with white-yellow oblong fruits.
They are very tasty in milk-rice porridge, in pies with viburnum or dried fruits, with tortillas or pancakes with sour cream. Gymnospermous pumpkin jam is also tasty, and its juice is very pleasant, therapeutic and dietary.

It is sown at the same time as ordinary pumpkins, but they cannot be planted next to them and with zucchini. They do not get sick, chemical treatment is not required, and is not needed, since the seeds are used for medicinal purposes in diseases such as adenoma, prostatitis, diabetes, kidney, urolithiasis, cardiovascular diseases, liver and stomach pains. Pumpkin restores salt metabolism and the immune system.
The special value of the gymnospermous pumpkin lies in the fact that its seeds, unlike ordinary pumpkins, contain trace elements of zinc, which plays the greatest role in metabolism, especially in the work of the pituitary gland and prostate gland.
Zinc deficiency creates disruptions in the rhythmic work of our body, retards growth and mental development in children, increases body weight, reduces the function of the gonads, resulting in low sexual potency, infertility, prostatitis, adenoma and many other diseases.

Few people know that the appearance of small white spots on the surface of the nails is a signal from the body about a lack of zinc. It's like a red light in the driver's cabin lit up, announcing that gasoline will soon run out. Therefore, it is urgent to “refuel” (replenish) the body with zinc.
Our ancestors at one time did not know such terms as cystitis, prostatitis, adenoma. But they widely used medicinal properties gymnosperm gourd. The methods and secrets of its use have been passed down from generation to generation.
Using this knowledge, they successfully treated themselves. And thousands of rubles, as now, for brightly advertised drugs such as "The Bronze Horseman", the use of which there is no guarantee against a new disease, was not paid.
Gymnospermous gourd, apparently, for medicinal purposes is given by nature, by God. After all, not a single vegetable, except for it, for some reason has bare seeds. Nature has foreseen everything here too, created them naked so that the elderly (and those who are over 50-60 years old suffer from adenoma) do not experience difficulties clicking seeds.
For three courses of treatment, 20-25 pumpkins are required. It is almost impossible to buy them on the market due to their rarity, but you can grow them yourself in your garden, as my grandfather once did.

It will be a personal “doctor” grown by you, a medicinal food product that will certainly stop the development of prostatitis, adenoma and other diseases.

I would advise parents who have male children to feed them now not only overseas mars and snickers, but also sweets that are quickly and easily prepared from gymnosperm pumpkin seeds.
For more effective and accelerated treatment, it is better to use 5 varieties of gymnosperms at once, they will, as it were, complement each other in the percentage of zinc. Our health and our disease are in our hands.

I suggest vegetable growers to start this very necessary culture. She will be both a family doctor and a health food product.
Well, now some recipes for delicious sweets from this medicinal pumpkin.
Apple cheese "Mosaic".

For 5 kg of apples - 1 kg of sugar, 0.5 g of cinnamon, 170-250 pumpkin seeds from gymnosperms.
We take green or unripe varieties of sour apples with a soft peel, wash them, remove the core, cut into thin slices, put in enamelware and sprinkle with sugar, mix well, cover with gauze and leave at room temperature for 12-15 hours, you can for a day.
Then we wash the resulting juice into a basin, boil for 15-20 minutes, so that a little liquid evaporates. Pour three quarters of the apples into it and cook, stirring, until thick (half the mass remains).
Pour the remaining slices and cook for another 2-3 minutes, no more, so that they do not boil soft and do not lose their green color. At the end of cooking, add gymnospermous pumpkin seeds and cinnamon.
Now we are preparing an oblong bag of gauze and the same one made of polyethylene, but a little wider and longer so that a bag of gauze with apple mass can freely fit. We tightly tie both bags and put them under a small oppression.
The liquid from the gauze bag flows into the cellophane. After a day, I take out the gauze bag, clean it with a spoon and hang it for 4-5 days to dry well, and that's it - the medicinal cheese is ready for use.
The finished cheese looks like this: green slices and white pumpkin seeds are visible in the brown apple mass. Very tasty sweet and sour dessert.
Kozinaki.

Put 100 g of butter, 200 g of granulated sugar in an aluminum pan.
Heat the mixture over low heat until it begins to acquire a light brown color, then pour about one glass of toasted pumpkin seeds into it, mix thoroughly and transfer to any form, previously oiled, to cool.
Sweets. A sealed can of condensed milk must be boiled in boiling water for about three hours. Put the resulting mass into a saucepan, add 150 g of butter and heat in a water bath until completely softened.
Pour 1-1.5 cups of roasted and slightly crushed pumpkin seeds into it, mix everything, put it on a greased tray. butter, cool and cut into squares. The treat is ready.
Cookies "Surprise". The dough is ordinary, unleavened: 200 g of margarine, 4 eggs, a glass of sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of soda and salt, 3 cups of flour, then add 1-2 cups of fried pumpkin seeds, knead the dough.
Cut it into small balls and bake in the oven. Sprinkle the finished cookies with powdered sugar mixed with cocoa.

Diseases of gourds

Powdery mildew. Fungal disease.

The above-ground organs of cucumber, melon, watermelon, zucchini and squash are affected. The disease initially appears on the upper side of the leaf as white powdery spots, which rapidly increase in size. Then spots are formed on the underside of the leaf, on petioles and stems. Affected leaves die off. The development of the disease is favored by sharp fluctuations in temperature, high humidity and heavy dew. During the growing season, the infection is spread by spores that are transferred from diseased plants to healthy ones by wind, with watering, during care, etc. The causative agent of the disease remains on post-harvest residues.

Control measures.

Alternation of crops with the return of the cucumber to its original place no earlier than in 3-4 years. Deep autumn digging of the soil. Removal of affected leaves, plant debris and weeds. If the disease continues to spread, then the plants are sprayed with 0.3% colloidal sulfur or dusted with ground sulfur powder at the rate of 300 g per 100 m2. Waiting period - 1 day. With a strong development of the disease, the treatment is repeated after 7-8 days.
You can use an infusion of slurry or hay dust. To prepare an infusion, one part of slurry or hay dust is poured into three parts of water, insisted for three days, filtered before use, diluted three times with water and 5 g of copper sulfate are added to 10 liters. Plants are sprayed in the evening or in cloudy weather, both sides of the leaves are treated. Treatment of plants with milk (1 liter of milk per 10 liters of water) limits the spread of the disease and reduces its harmfulness. From biological preparations against powdery mildew, treat cucumbers in protected ground repeatedly with an interval of 7-8 days with trichothecin (2 g per 10 m2). Waiting period - 3 days.

Anthracnose.

Plants of any age are affected (cucumber, melon, watermelon). Large rounded or oval yellow-brown spots are formed on the leaves and cotyledons, which, with high humidity, become covered with a pink bloom. The leaves dry up and die. On the petioles, stems and fruits, pink spots are formed in the form of ulcers, which then darken. Affected fruits become bitter. If the disease spreads to the root part, then the plant dies. Plant damage is aggravated by rainy weather and dews. The infection is transmitted through seeds and plant debris.
Control measures.

Compliance with crop rotations and the destruction of post-harvest residues. Sowing with healthy seeds. For healing, the seeds are scattered in a thin layer (up to 2 cm) in the sun (in the open air) and constantly stirred during the day. Heating continues for 2-4 days. The sun's rays disinfect the seeds and stimulate their germination. You can disinfect the seeds with phytoncides. For 100 g of water, take 25 g of garlic pulp, mix thoroughly, place the seeds in the prepared mixture and leave them in closed jar for 1 hour. The seeds are then washed and dried. You can also heal the seeds for 6 hours in aloe juice, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1, or in mullein, prepared in a ratio of 1:6.
To ensure friendly seedlings and increase resistance against disease, treat the seeds before sowing with microelements. To prepare the solution, you can use ready-made tablets or separate fertilizers, spending 0.5 g of boric acid, potassium permanganate, zinc sulfate, ammonium molybdate, 0.05 g of copper sulfate and 5 g of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) per 1 liter of water. In the solution, the seeds are kept for 24 hours, then dried. No less effective is the use of an aqueous infusion of wood ash, which contains up to 30 nutrients necessary for the plant, including trace elements. To prepare it, 20 g of wood ash is infused for 1-1 days in 1 liter of water. Seeds are kept in solution for 4 to 6 hours. When the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid, a solution of rhizoplan (titer 5 × 10 ″ fl. to / ml). For prevention, foliar feeding of young plants (after thinning) can be carried out with the following solution: 20 g of superphosphate, 7 g of urea, 2 g of manganese sulfate, 4 g of copper sulfate, dissolved in 10 warm water. During the growth period, three foliar top dressings are carried out.
Bacteriosis, or angular spotting.

Develops in all phases of growth. Oily angular light brown spots form on the leaves. Over time, the spots dry up, turn brown and fall out. The leaf becomes perforated. On the stems, petioles and fruits, small watery spots first appear, which subsequently dry out and look like deep ulcers. The development of bacteriosis is facilitated by an increase in humidity and air temperature. The infection persists on seeds and on affected post-harvest residues.
Control measures.

Compliance with crop rotation. Improvement of seeds (see measures to combat traknose). When the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture. The consumption rate of the working fluid is 1 liter per 10 m2. The treatment is repeated after 10-12 days. Bordeaux liquid is used 15 days before harvest. Destruction of post-harvest residues.
Fusarium wilt. Fusarium wilt affects plants at any age. On the affected seedlings, the cotyledons wither, the lower part of the stem rots, and mass death of seedlings is often observed, in which the roots are rotten or withered. In adult plants, the vascular system is affected, and they wither or become dwarfed. Fusarium wilt affects all cucurbits. The fungus overwinters in plant debris and penetrates into plants through the root system. The disease especially develops in wet weather with a sharp temperature drop.
Control measures. To prevent the disease in the germination phase and throughout the entire growing season, melons are fed by furrows, in which the root neck, lashes and fruits of cultivated plants are located on a dry row-spacing. In the phase of lash formation, it is recommended to spray once or twice with Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water). In autumn, plant residues are removed. It is necessary to observe crop rotation, taking into account the return of pumpkins to their original place in 6 - 8 years. It is desirable to place gourds on a layer of perennial grasses.
Downy mildew (peronosporosis). Fungal disease.

The disease develops in protected and open ground. It affects cucumbers, melon, watermelon, pumpkin. It appears on plants of any age, starting from seedlings. The symptoms of the disease are varied. Most often, in affected plants, yellowish-green spots of a rounded or angular shape form on the upper side of the leaf. With an angular shape of the spots, the disease is often mistaken for bacteriosis. Sometimes younger leaves have a mosaic color, which resembles the defeat of plants by a virus. With any form of damage to the leaves on the underside, they form a gray-violet coating, which consists of sporulation of the fungus. With the further development of the disease, the spots increase and cover the entire leaf blade. Gradually, the leaves turn brown, dry, crumble. The development of the disease is enhanced by high humidity, the presence of dew and fog, as well as when growing crops in poorly ventilated and shaded areas. The infection persists on plant debris.
Control measures.

Compliance with crop rotation with the return of affected crops after 3-4 years. Seeds are sown only in well-warmed soil or seedlings in pots. Particular attention should be paid to the application of organic fertilizers and the optimal doses of mineral fertilizers. An excess of nitrogen, especially with a lack of phosphorus and potassium, reduces the resistance of plants to diseases. The first preventive chemical treatment should be carried out in the phase of 2-3 true leaves, the second - after 10-12 days, the next - when the first signs of the disease appear and repeat after 7-12 days, depending on weather conditions. Spraying is carried out with a 0.4% solution of cuproxad, cartocide or efal (20 g / 10 l of water). From chemicals, apply copper oxychloride 20 days before harvesting or Bordeaux liquid - 15 days before.

: How to sow carrots before winter ...

Often, gardeners plant watermelons in their summer cottages in order to enjoy their juicy fruits in the summer. However, not everyone manages to get a high-quality harvest, since special knowledge is needed to grow gourds. Therefore, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with how watermelons are grown.

Watermelons are considered heat-loving plants that have a long growing season. It is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technology of growing this crop in areas that differ in climatic features. Residents of southern regions with a warm climate can plant gourds immediately in open ground. Due to the high temperature, bushes and fruits will grow quickly. When growing a plant in warm regions, it is much easier to get good harvest.

In the northern regions, the air temperature is much lower, so watermelons ripen worse. Due to the harsh climate, many gardeners fail to achieve high yields.

When growing gourds in such regions, certain rules are followed:

• for planting use only varieties with early ripening;
• in order to create optimal conditions for the germination of seedlings, the seed must be planted in greenhouses or under film shelters;
• planting is carried out by seedling method;
• to improve the growth of the root system, all seedlings are watered between rows;
• to obtain medium-sized fruits, no more than six ripe berries are left on each bush, and two fruits are left to collect the largest crop.

Selection and preparation of watermelon seeds for sowing

Before you start sowing watermelons at home, you need to do the selection and preliminary preparation of the seed.

Choice

It is recommended to pre-select seeds that will be planted in the future. When selecting, carefully inspect each seed to look for any signs of damage. Damaged seeds are immediately thrown away, as they are unsuitable for planting.

Also, when choosing the highest quality seed, pay attention to its variety. Experienced gardeners advise planting hybrid varieties, as they are resistant to weather changes and common diseases.

Preparation

To obtain strong and healthy seedlings, you will have to do the preliminary preparation of seeds in advance, which consists of several activities:

1. Disinfection. Before sowing, all seeds will have to be disinfected so that they are not exposed to diseases in the future. During disinfection, all seeds are soaked in manganese liquid for 25-30 minutes. Then they are laid out on a towel and dried thoroughly.
2. Warming up Gardeners strongly recommend heating watermelon seeds, as this contributes to their germination. The procedure is carried out very carefully so as not to accidentally overheat the seeds. To warm up, all planting material is lowered for half an hour into a container with water heated to 45 degrees.
3. Scarification. When carrying out such a procedure, the shell of the seed of watermelons is carefully pierced. This speeds up the process of seed germination several times. It is necessary to engage in scarification 2-3 weeks before planting.

Choosing a place to land

To grow a quality crop in open ground, it is necessary to select in advance the most suitable site for watermelons. When choosing a place in the garden, pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. For gourds and gourds, sandy and sandy loamy soils are ideal, which are rich in nutrients. The level of illumination of the site is also taken into account, since due to the lack of light, the yield may deteriorate. Therefore, experts do not recommend planting seeds or seedlings in shaded areas, under trees or fences.

When choosing a place for planting watermelons on suburban area the compatibility of this culture with other plants should be taken into account.

Watermelon seedlings grow well in vegetable gardens, where before long time grown black radish. This vegetable saturates the soil with phytoncides, which protect crops from spider mites and other pests. Gardeners also recommend planting gourds near tomatoes and parsley, as they drive away moths and sawflies.

However, there are several plants with which watermelons are incompatible. You should not plant them after peppers, potatoes, strawberries and eggplants, as these vegetables suck out many of the nutrients that watermelon plants need from the soil.

Preparing and fertilizing the soil

Having chosen a site for planting a plant, they begin the preliminary preparation and fertilization of the soil in which watermelon seedlings will be grown. Chernozem should be loose and contain nutrients that will accelerate the growth of seedlings. Soil preparation technology consists of several successive stages.

1. Determination of the level of looseness of the soil and its acidity. If the land on the site has an increased level of acidity, you will have to water it with chalk or lime mortar. Heavy soils are pre-fed with vermicompost to increase friability.
2. Adding mineral supplements to increase yields. In the first few weeks after planting watermelons, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, which are dominated by nitrogen. This component activates the growth of seedlings, due to which fruits are tied on the bushes earlier. Also, the site is fed with phosphorus-containing dressings, which increase the resistance of seedlings to temperature changes.
3. Introduction of organic matter. To saturate the soil with useful microelements, it is necessary to fertilize it with organic top dressing. It is recommended to evenly distribute bird droppings with humus over the site, then loosen the ground and pour it with warm water. To improve the yield of watermelons, you can moisten the soil with herbal infusion mixed with wood ash.

Growing seedlings

When using the seedling planting method, gardeners have to grow seedlings, which in the future will be transplanted into the garden. It is recommended to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of planting seeds and transplanting grown seedlings to a permanent place.

Planting watermelon seeds

Sowing seeds is carried out when they have sprouted a little and white sprouts have appeared on their surface. When carrying out planting work, all seed material is planted in pots with soil mixture. About 2-4 seeds are sown in each container, so that in the future you can get rid of weak seedlings and leave only the most healthy seedlings. Seeds are sown to a depth of 3-5 centimeters.

When all watermelon seeds have been planted in pots, they are covered with plastic wrap and transferred to a well-lit room.

In the first 5-7 days, pots with planted watermelons should be in a room with a temperature of at least 23 degrees. After the appearance of the first sprouts, the film is removed from the pots, and containers with seedlings are transferred to a room with a temperature of 15-17 degrees.

Seedling transplant

Watermelon seedlings should be grown in pots until the first three leaves appear on the seedlings. After this, the seedlings must be transplanted to a permanent place. To do this, rows are marked along the entire site, on which holes are made for further planting. The depth of each hole should be about 8-10 centimeters so that the roots can be completely placed underground.

Each hole is watered with warm water, after which the seedlings are carefully planted in the ground. Then the holes are covered with soil and re-moistened with water.

Shaping and pinching

Experienced gardeners recommend regularly pinching gourds. This procedure is carried out to improve the yield and accelerate the development of watermelon berries. Most often, pruning of lashes is carried out when growing plants in open ground, since in greenhouse conditions it is not necessary to form bushes. In order to properly form seedlings, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of removing extra stepchildren.

There are three main methods of pinching, which are most often used by gardeners:

1. Pasynkovanie lateral shoots. This method is considered universal, as it is suitable for any variety of gourds. During the procedure, 1-2 shoots are left on the main stem. At the same time, on all lateral stems, the ovaries are completely removed.
2. Trimming the side stems. Using this method of pinching plants, you will have to completely remove the shoots. Only a few lashes are left on the main stem, and everything else is cut off.
3. Formation in several stems. This is the most common way in which you do not need to completely cut the shoots. On the bushes leave 2-4 lateral lashes. At the same time, each of them should have 2-3 ovaries. If there are more of them, then all the extra fruits that have set are removed.

Rules for feeding and caring for the plant

It is recommended to properly care for gourds, since without care it will not be possible to get a quality crop. The quality of the fruits directly depends on the application of fertilizing to the soil at all stages of growing watermelons.

When sowing

Before planting the seed, be sure to fertilize the soil. To do this, the earth is mixed with a liquid that is prepared from humus. Then the site is treated with wood ash and bone meal, which increases the permeability of oxygen in the soil.

When landing in open ground

Some people prefer to grow watermelon bushes in the open field, so they immediately plant the seeds in the garden. Before that, the land on the site is mixed with green manure plants, which are considered the best top dressing to strengthen the roots.

When flowering

When pollination and flowering of bushes begins, it is recommended to add more fertilizing with potassium to the ground. This substance contributes to the appearance of new flowers on seedlings, due to which the yield increases significantly. Gardeners advise once a month to spray watermelons with Kelik and Nutrivant.

At the beginning of fruiting

At the initial stage of fruiting, it is necessary to take seriously the feeding of each bush, since due to the lack of nutrients in the soil, the yield is deteriorating. Often, few berries are tied on the bushes due to a lack of boron.

Therefore, to improve the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits, it is necessary to periodically spray the area with Megafol and Boroplus.

Nutrition for the fetus

The correct fertilization scheme for watermelon seedlings contributes to the ripening of berries. To make the fruits more watery and tasty, the plants are regularly sprayed with Uniflor and Terraflex.

How often to water

Before you start growing melons, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of their irrigation. In the first weeks after germination, the plant needs intensive watering, as its root system is weakened. With a lack of moisture, seedlings grow poorly and gradually fade. Also, more often it will be necessary to moisten the soil during the formation of flowers and the setting of the first fruits. During such periods, seedlings are watered at least four times a week.

Experts advise to moisten the soil in the afternoon, when the sun begins to set. In the daytime, it is not worth moistening the soil, because due to high temperature and sunlight, moisture will evaporate faster. For irrigation use settled water at room temperature. Watering the bushes with too cold liquid is contraindicated, as this can lead to rotting of the root system and further death of watermelons.

Irrigation of gourds ceases to be engaged after the full ripening of the fruits.

Harvest and storage

If the agricultural technique for growing watermelons has been fully observed, a ripe crop can be harvested 35-50 days after planting. However, sometimes watermelon berries ripen ahead of time. To make sure that the fruits are ripe, inspect the color of their pulp and seeds. The seeds should be dark brown and the flesh should be pink with a reddish tinge. The peel of ripe watermelons should be hard and rough.

The harvested crop is best stored on high racks with shelves, which are located at a distance of 55-65 centimeters from each other. Each shelf should be covered with a thin layer of peat or straw. Such a coating will increase the shelf life of the crop. During storage, watermelons are carefully examined every month. All rotten fruits are thrown away so that the rot does not spread to neighboring berries. Monthly treatment of fruits with lime mortar will help protect the crop from rotting.

What diseases and pests gourds are susceptible to: methods of control

Often gourds do not grow well due to pest attacks or the development of diseases:

1. Anthracnose. The presence of such a pathology can be determined by the brown spots that appear on the leaves of watermelons. To get rid of the symptoms of anthracnose, all infected bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid and Kuprozan solution.
2. Bacteriosis. The disease damages the leaves, on the surface of which oval white spots appear. Bacteriosis cannot be cured, so infected watermelons are dug up and burned.
3. Mite. Due to dry weather, young watermelon seedlings are often attacked by spider mites. Insects feed on the juice from the leaves and stems, which causes the bushes to dry. A mixture made from onions and garlic will help to cope with the pest.

Conclusion

Many summer residents plant their plots with watermelon bushes. To properly grow them, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of planting gourds and caring for them.

The most delicious is the watermelon that grew in the garden and was nourished by the sun, greenhouse fruits do not have such a taste. That is why gardeners tend to grow watermelons in the open field, but not everyone succeeds.

Planting watermelon seeds in open ground

There are many issues associated with growing watermelons, but the most important of them is seed preparation and planting methods.

Watermelon seeds do not germinate well, as they are covered with a dense shell. Without pre-treatment of seeds, seedlings may not appear. First of all, experienced gardeners calibrate the seeds, for this they are dipped in a strong saline solution. All heavy seeds will sink to the bottom of the container, and they are used for further cultivation. Light seeds are unsuitable for planting.

Shortly before planting, the seeds are processed and disinfected, placed in a hot solution, then placed in a cold environment. The water temperature should not exceed 55°C. The solution is prepared from potassium permanganate, then the seeds are washed in clean water.

Planting watermelon seeds in a seedless way

After processing, the seeds are planted on the beds, this is done only in regions with a mild climate. Best of all, the seeds germinate at a soil temperature of 12-15 ° C, so they start planting in early spring.

The depth of seed placement depends entirely on soil structure and seed size. On light and loose soils, it ranges from 4 to 8 cm, on heavy soils - no more than 6 cm. Moreover, small seeds are sown in shallow grooves or holes, while larger ones are planted deeper.

Landing is carried out according to one of the schemes:

Ordinary method. Between the bushes leave from 70 to 150 cm, between rows of at least 1.5 m.

Square nest. Bushes are planted at a distance of 70 to 210 cm.

For normal growth and development, the fruits need a lot of sun, plantings should not be thickened. In addition, it will protect plants from possible diseases and pests.

Another advantage of such a sparse landing is the abundance of food. The fact is that each fruit must receive enough nutrients. With thickened plantings, nutritional deficiencies occur.

Growing watermelons through seedlings

If the spring is long and cold, then it is better to plant prepared seedlings in the open ground after the heat is established. The whole process takes from 20 to 35 days, it all depends on the variety chosen.

For cultivation prepare loose nutrient mixture, which consists of peat, humus and sod land. The depth of planting in cups is only 3-4 cm. Watermelon seeds are large, so they are immediately planted in separate containers so as not to injure the taproot with frequent transplants.

After planting, the containers are placed in a greenhouse until shoots appear. During this period, the temperature in the room is maintained at the level of 20-25°C, at night it is allowed to drop to 18°C. After the appearance of sprouts, the containers are removed to a colder place for 4 days to prevent stretching. The temperature is maintained at the same level - 17-18°C, further the seedlings are grown at a temperature of 20°C.

When caring for seedlings, special attention is paid to watering. They should not be plentiful, but you do not need to keep the sprouts dry. Water the plants only with warm water, trying not to get on the tender leaves.

The first feeding is carried out a week after the emergence of shoots. Use complex mineral mixtures for seedlings or melons.

Shortly before the intended planting in the ground, the plants are hardened. To do this, they are briefly taken out into the street, gradually increasing the residence time. Seedlings are planted from mid-May to early June.

How to choose a site for growing watermelons in open ground

A place for growing is chosen taking into account all the features of melons.

The site should be well lit throughout the day, be protected from cold winds and drafts.

Watermelons grow best in light soil, so take care of its condition in advance.

Since autumn, the beds are enriched with organic matter, humus or manure is introduced. In the spring, the place is dug up, weeds are removed.

Mineral fertilizers are applied under plowing:

Ammonium sulfate - 25 gr;

Superphosphate - 40 gr;

Potassium - 15 gr.

Plants are planted on prepared beds according to any of the above schemes. At first, the bushes shade from the scorching sun.

Features of growing and caring for watermelons in the open field

Watermelons are relatively undemanding crops, but without minimal care, you will not be able to get a good harvest of fruits. First of all, plants need watering, which carry out in a specific pattern:

Before the appearance of flowers, water sparingly;

Abundant during fruit set;

During the ripening period, reduce to a minimum and completely stop.

This technology allows you to grow juicy fruits with sugar pulp.

The frequency of watering also depends on the soil on which the crop is grown. On sandy soil, it is watered more often, and on chernozem and clay soils, it is somewhat less common.

Another important point when growing watermelons in the open field are top dressing. Feed three times per season:

10 days after planting seedlings or germination;

During the flowering period;

During the formation of ovaries.

Mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content are used for top dressing, which reduces the risk of nitrate accumulation in fruits.

In addition, the main care for watermelons consists of the following procedures:

Loosening the soil to a depth of 7 cm;

Weed removal;

Whip protection from winds;

Pest and disease control.

After each watering or rain, the soil is carefully loosened, weeds are removed until the lashes between the bushes occupy all the free space. To protect the whips from the wind, they are pinned to the ground and sprinkled.

Problems when growing watermelons in open ground

If the site gets wet from moisture or there is not enough light and space for growing, then vertical supports can be installed. They must be strong to withstand the load of the growing fetus. Only one main lash is left on the plant, on which up to 3-4 fruits are allowed.

If frosts are expected, then plantings should be covered with cardboard or covering material.

Wet weather can encourage aphids and fungal diseases. Regularly inspect the bushes, if necessary, carry out preventive spraying with a solution of garlic, tobacco dust or ash. In case of mass destruction, chemical preparations are used.

When to pick watermelons

How to determine the ripeness of a crop so as not to collect an unripe fruit? Experienced gardeners rely on the timing of planting and the duration of the growing season, for example, early varieties produce a crop in mid-August. Mass crops are not harvested, but only ripe fruits are selected. They can be distinguished by their characteristic features:

The crust is shiny, smooth and dense;

When tapping, a dull sound;

Dry stalk and bract.

If the berry is planned to be transported to the place of storage, then it is better to collect the unripe one. They mature in storage.

Their distinctive feature is long stems with antennae. In the event that supports are placed next to these crops, the whips will begin to “climb” along them. In order to correctly apply the cultivation technology, which will be described below in the article, you need to know exactly which crops are melons.

These are melon, pumpkin, watermelon, squash, zucchini and some others.

Two-year-old seeds are considered the most suitable for sowing in gourds. If there is no opportunity to obtain such planting material, you can use annual ones. However, in this case, they need to be heated to 60 degrees for 2 hours. In order for the seedlings to be more friendly, the seeds of gourds are also germinated. To do this, they are wrapped in gauze and dipped in warm water for four hours. Then they are placed in a damp burlap and kept for a day or two.

Most gourds prefer sunny places, warm weather and are resistant to a long absence of moisture. The thing is that the homeland of all these cultures are the hot regions of the planet. Watermelons, for example, grow wild in South Africa, and melons and pumpkins in Asia.

Melons not only tolerate dry air well, but also produce tastier and sweeter fruits under such conditions.

Seeds are planted in the ground only when the summer weather becomes stable, that is, in early June. In order to get a harvest a little earlier, gourds can be grown in seedlings. For this, peat cups are used, because these plants do not tolerate transplantation well. Melons are planted in the ground either in a nested way or in rows. Each such plant requires a lot of space. Firstly, they have long lashes that need space to develop, and secondly, they have large fruits, which is why they require a huge amount of nutrients.

Melon crops are planted in 2-3 pieces. Melons and watermelons - to a depth of 4 cm, pumpkins - 6 cm. In warm weather, seedlings appear on the tenth day of sowing, and the first real leaf - a week later. Depending on the variety, the main shoot may begin to form in 15-40 days.

Then shoots of the second order, the third, etc. branch off from it. The flowers of these plants are of different sexes - both female and male specimens bloom on the same plant.

As for top dressing, during the season gourds on early stages development can be fertilized with infusion of mullein. In the autumn, after harvesting, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied for digging, and nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring when preparing the beds. Although the plants of this family are drought-resistant, they still give a higher yield when watered. During the season, the soil under them is well moistened 9-12 times. However, during the ripening of the fruit, watering the plants should be as rare as possible. Otherwise, the fruits will grow watery and not too sweet.

Growing gourds is a rather complicated matter, since the climate in Russia is not very suitable for them. Often, even with proper care, the gardener does not receive a crop. The result after all in many respects depends on weather conditions. If you still want to grow watermelons or melons on your site, then you should try to do it. If you're lucky, you can diversify your diet with delicious and unusually healthy fruits.

Residents of the central regions of Ukraine cannot boast of a melon harvest - watermelons ripen late, grow small, savory. But a miracle crop of watermelon and melon can be harvested if you use a few professional secrets.

“It is better to plant watermelons in the second year after adding organic matter to the soil,” says the head of the Department of Vegetable Growing of the Ukrainian agricultural university, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Orest Barabash. - Watermelons grow best on sandy soils. In addition, not all varieties are suitable for mid-latitudes. I would recommend these: Borisfen, Borchansky, Golopristansky, Dumara, Obry, Sichnevy, Chernomorsky. These varieties ripen by mid-August. Melon should be taken mainly of three varieties: Serpyanka, Titovka and Bereginya.

In order for the harvest to be good, melons are best grown in seedlings. Seeds are sown on April 10-15. Before that, they need to be wetted, wait until they hatch, and planted in peat pots 10 × 10 centimeters in size. The pots must be filled with soil up to half - when the seedlings are pulled out, it will be necessary to pour the earth.

Watermelons are planted in open ground from May 18 to May 25, when the threat of frost disappears. If the soil is not sufficiently fertilized, half a kilogram of humus is placed in the pits and 8-10 centimeters of earth are poured on top. When planting, it is necessary to strictly observe the row spacing: for watermelon - 1.8 meters, for melon - 1.4. In a row, watermelon seedlings are planted at a distance of 1.4-1.8 meters, melons - 0.7-1.4. Two plants can be planted in the holes at once.

When the seedlings grow up, they are evenly distributed: one shoot to the right, one to the left. On the central stem, where the fruits are formed, you need to leave 3-4 ovaries, and pinch off the rest of the stem on the 6-7th leaf.

Melons are grown using the same technology. But, unlike watermelon, melon forms fruits on lateral shoots. 6-7 ovaries are left on the plants, and the stems are pinched off over the fruits on the 3rd-4th leaf.

Lunisolar sowing calendar

March 28 - rutabagas, turnips, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, turnip onions, radishes, beets, horseradish, bulb flowers;

Planting and growing watermelons and melons in open ground

Watermelon and melon are associated with the taste of summer, and every gardener dreams of growing delicious fruits on his plot. Watermelon has long been used as a healing diuretic to cleanse the body. Melons are thermophilic and grow in a warm climate, so for their cultivation and planting watermelons in the open field, you need to have special knowledge.

Be sure to find out in advance whether it is possible to plant gourds if a cucumber, pepper, pumpkin or zucchini grows nearby.

Is it possible to plant watermelons and melons side by side?

Melons belong to the gourd family. Cultures are very useful and contain a huge amount of vitamins. If you learn how to properly grow these plants, you can get a high yield of delicious fruits.

Melon is quite suitable for "neighborhood" with watermelon. Plants tend to grow. It is not recommended to plant them too close together..

Proper sowing of seeds for seedlings at home

Seeds for seedlings are planted approximately 60 days before planting in open ground. So, already in mid-March, the seeds should be bought. You can buy them at any specialized store or ask those who have already managed to grow a quality crop of watermelons and melons.

It is impossible to get a good harvest from the seeds of last year's watermelon. The best seeds to plant - 5 years ago. It is important to understand that only any early-ripening varieties with a ripening period of up to 70-85 days are suitable for our climate. It is better to give preference to hybrid varieties that are more adapted to adverse conditions.

When preparing seeds, you need to make sure that they are not empty. To do this, seeds are immersed in a container with water, Anything that comes up can be safely thrown away.. Watermelon seeds germinate more slowly than melon seeds. Therefore, it is recommended to scald watermelon seeds with boiling water, for better germination, and only then sow.

Preparation for planting and soaking

1. Soak. Each individual type of seed must be wrapped and soaked in cloth rags and maintain in a humid environment until germination. You can also soak in special napkins.
2. If the seeds have already hatched, but there is no way to plant them in a timely manner, you can leave the seeds in the refrigerator.

Seeds germinated at home are planted in separate small pots with a diameter of 10 cm, preferably peat. The soil should be a mixture of: humus, sod land 3:1, add peat, sawdust, humus 3:1:0.5.

planted in each pot 2 seeds to the depth 5 cm. Moisten the soil with a sprayer. Cover the container with cling film on top and put in a warm place +25 degrees.

• when the seeds germinate, move them to sunlight at a temperature +22 degrees. Remove the film;
• the best place for seedlings is the windowsill on the south side of the house;
• a week after sowing, feed the seedlings with mineral fertilizers, and a week later - infusion of mullein with superphosphate.

Landing in open ground

When landing in open ground, you need to focus on climatic conditions, the selected variety of culture, the readiness of seedlings.

Soil selection

Before planting melons in open ground, you need to choose a place for planting. Exotic plants love sunny places where there is no shade and wind.

Melons and watermelons need rich soils, as well as those that can withstand moisture well. The ideal option is sandy and sandy loamy soil with a pH of 6-7 units.

Preparing seedlings of watermelons

When the seedlings appear 5-7 leaves, it is ready for transplanting into open ground. Best time - the end of May. However, you need to focus on weather conditions so that at night the air temperature remains +15 degrees.

A week before planting in open ground, seedlings must be taken out for hardening at a daily temperature of + 16 + 20 degrees.

Seedlings are ready for transplanting after the appearance of 5-7 leaves

Outdoor Landing Pattern - Depth and Distance

For planting in open ground, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Holes should be made in the garden at a distance 0.5-0.7 meters apart in a checkerboard pattern. Leave 70cm spacing between rows.
2. Seedlings are placed in holes so that the surface remains only a few top leaves. The soil should be crushed and sprinkled with sand around to protect the plant from rot.
3. Harvest after planting should be watered with summer or slightly warmed water.
4. To protect a young plant from the scorching sun, it is necessary to close the sprouts for 2-3 days with moistened caps made of plastic or paper.

Features of growing melons

To ensure free access of oxygen to the roots, the soil needs to be constantly loosen to a depth of 10 cm. With the development of lateral loops, spud the culture. In order for the plant not to spend all its strength on gaining mass during the growth period, you need to pinch the main stem. For the full development of melons, three shoots are enough.

When fruit ovaries appear, 2-6 of the strongest and largest specimens are left on the bush. To reduce the load on the whip, it is recommended to tie the fruits into nets and hang on a support. The fruits are placed on foil linings to prevent rotting.

To reduce the load on the whip, the fruits can be hung in a net.

If watermelons will be used for storage and transportation in the future, then it is better to take a berry not fully ripe.

Advantages of planting in open ground:

• in warm weather, you can achieve maximum ripeness fruits;
• daily watering of the culture is not necessary;
• it is possible to increase the yield if the basic rules for selecting soil and planting seeds for seedlings are observed.

Growing watermelons and melons in a summer cottage is quite realistic. Some even grow them in bags or greenhouses. If you follow all the recommendations, then by the end of summer you can enjoy sweet, sugary fruits. The main advantage of growing melons in your garden is the absence of chemicals.

Gourds: how to grow melon, pumpkin, watermelon

Golden melons, pot-bellied pumpkins, sugar watermelons - all these are gourds. They are all relatives, but each plant has its own growing secrets. How to get a good harvest of gourds, the nuances of planting and care, agricultural techniques - so that all the relatives of garbuzov are alive and healthy.

Traditionally and erroneously, it is believed that good watermelons and melons grow only "in the south." And we are in a hurry to buy imported fruits, but we don’t even buy watermelon and melon seeds. But in vain! Modern varieties and hybrids can be successfully grown in our gardens.

Do-it-yourself watermelons, melons, pumpkins grown from seeds - they will not yield to the southern ones in taste. And nutritionists have long been talking about the benefits of these fruits. They contain a lot of carotene, potassium, phosphorus, organic acids, iron salts. By useful qualities they are, in many respects, in no way inferior to fruits.

General rules for growing gourds from seeds

All gourds need a lot of light and heat, moisture in the soil and dry air.

1. The peculiarity of gourds is their thermophilicity and the need for direct sunlight, without shading.
2. The temperature at which pumpkin, watermelon, melon develop best from seeds is above +20°C. For abundant flowering female flowers and fruit set - the recommended temperature during the day: + 20 ° C - + 25 ° C, and at night does not fall below: + 18 ° C - + 20 ° C.
3. At a temperature of +12°С, the development of melons slows down significantly, and at +10°С and below, it stops altogether. During frosts, melons and gourds can die.
4. The root system of gourds is powerful, well developed, so pumpkins, watermelons, and melons successfully resist drought. Pubescent leaves - prevent the evaporation of moisture from the leaf plate.
5. In order for the harvest of gourds to be plentiful, and the fruits tasty and large, it is necessary to ensure regular watering.
6. Increased air humidity in the place where melons and gourds are grown from seeds should be excluded. In high humidity, they can be affected by diseases. To keep the air dry - water under the root.
7. Seeds of gourds are sown in one place every 4-5 years. It is not necessary to sow gourds in one place every year. Bad predecessors for watermelon, melon and pumpkin: cucumbers, squash, zucchini. Good: herbs, cereals, cereals, corn, tomatoes, fodder crops, potatoes, beets, carrots, herbs and other vegetables.
8. Melon crops respond well to top dressing, the number of female flowers increases, the formation of the ovary, the pouring of fruits, their taste and quality.
9. From seeds, gourds can also be grown through seedlings. By direct sowing of seeds into the ground, it is better to grow only early and mid-ripening pumpkins and early watermelons and melons.
10. To get large fruits and more ovaries, whip pumpkins, watermelons, melons - pinch. One way: by the end of August, pinch the tops of all shoots that have an ovary. The second way: pinch the plant over 4-5 real leaves so that side shoots appear, and then remove the tops after the appearance of 2-3 ovaries on each.

Different melons and gourds have their own characteristics of growth, development, and care. Let's look at the nuances of agricultural technology, choosing seeds of different varieties and growing crops.

Features of growing gourds

melon from seeds

In the southern regions, you can grow any variety, and in cooler regions - the best melon varieties: super-early Titovka, Early 133, reliable early hybrid Amal F1, traditional Kolkhoznitsa, etc.

Grounds and illumination.

Neutral or slightly alkaline cultivated soils without stagnant water are suitable for growing melons. Good melons will only grow in full sun. Seeds are sown in fertilized soil since autumn.

Preparation of melon seeds for sowing.

Before sowing, dip the seeds in a 1% -2% salt solution. The best seeds will sink to the bottom. Rinse them with water and treat with germination stimulants.

Sowing melon seeds.

Sow seedlings in containers with a volume of 150 ml or more. Sow 3-4 seeds each. Before planting in open ground, seedlings should be 25-35 days old. Seedlings will appear within 6-10 days at a temperature of +25°C. Sowing depth 4 cm - 7 cm. In the garden, seeds are sown when the soil warms up to at least + 12 ° C

Planting a melon.

When planting melons, make nests of 3-4 plants in each hole. Distance between nests - 50 cm - 70 cm in a row. Row spacing - from 120 cm. When planting, add a complete complex mineral fertilizer to the planting site.

Melon care.

When 5-6 true leaves appear, remove the weakest plants from the hole, leave 1-2 of the strongest. Feed the plants several times a season with specialized fertilizers. Water regularly, under the root. 203 weeks before fruit ripening, stop watering. Then the melons will be sweeter.

Watermelon from seeds

When choosing watermelon seeds, please note that the most delicious are medium-late and late varieties, and the earliest ones will definitely have time to pour and ripen regardless of the weather. The most popular varieties are: Crimson Suite, oval with light green skin Charleston Gray, with bright yellow flesh - Janusik variety, etc.

Grounds and illumination.

Watermelons love light sandy soil, enriched in autumn with compost or humus. And sunny places without the slightest shading.

Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing.

In a 3%-5% salt solution, the best seeds will sit on the bottom. Rinse them, treat with a stimulant and sow.

Sowing seeds of watermelon.

The timing of sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings is determined as follows: the age of the plant for open ground is 30-35 days. Shoots appear within 10 days. When the soil warms up to + 12 ° C, it can be sown in open ground. Sowing depth: 4 cm - 6 cm.

Planting a watermelon.

Several sprouts or seeds - form 3-4 plants in holes. After a month, 1-2 of the strongest plants are left. The distance in a row between nests is from 50 cm. Between rows: from 150 cm.

Watermelon care.

Top dressing is carried out regularly, like a melon, once every 2 weeks, starting from the moment 3-4 true leaves are formed. To prevent the lashes from being whipped by the wind, you can sprinkle them with peat or other mulch. Watermelons do not like their leaves to turn over and break. The ends of the lashes are pinched according to the general rules for melons.

pumpkin seed

Of all melons, pumpkin has one of the longest maturation periods. For most varieties, it is 110-120 days from germination to harvest. There are seeds of early pumpkin varieties, usually they are short climbing or bushy plants, with fruits weighing up to 2 kg (portioned). Pumpkin has the ability to ripen during storage and be stored at room temperature for several months without loss of taste. And there is a pumpkin, the seeds of which are formed without a hard shell, they can be eaten without peeling - gymnosperms.

Grounds and illumination.

The pumpkin plant itself is unpretentious and will survive on any soil. But in order for sweet, ripened fruits to grow from seeds, cultivated, light, nutritious soil is needed. You can plant a pumpkin in light partial shade, but the whips will rush to the light and the best fruits will only be in a lighted, well-warmed place.

Preparing pumpkin seeds for sowing.

Choose the fullest and largest seeds, treat them with a stimulant before sowing.

Sowing pumpkin seeds.

In order to get larger and more mature fruits, and a richer harvest, grow seedlings. Sowing in both beds and containers is done to a depth of 4 cm - 6 cm.

Planting a pumpkin.

Seedlings and seeds are planted in a garden bed when the temperature at night no longer drops below + 12 ° C. Plants are planted in nests, holes up to 50 cm in diameter are made in advance, and filled with fertilizers. Large-fruited pumpkins are grown - 1 plant per nest, hard-barked and nutmeg - 2-3 plants each.

Pumpkin care.

Fertilize and water your pumpkins regularly, especially when the fruit is in full bloom. During weeding and loosening, lightly spud the bushes.

Grow gourds - pumpkins, watermelons and melons good quality and sugar content is possible in any region of Ukraine. To do this, you only need to follow the recommendations for growing and buy seeds of varieties suitable for you.

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Five tricks to grow watermelons and melons even in harsh conditions

Trick one: double cover

With this method, watermelons and melons are sown in open ground to a depth of 3-4 cm: watermelons are 1.5–2 m apart, melons are 1–1.2 m apart. Each clade contains 2–3 seeds. But they do this not at the end of May, as is usually recommended, but in the first half - then they will have enough time to fully mature. Someone will say: so there is still half a month of frosts ahead, the seedlings will die! And here is the main trick - young plants must be covered. And in an unusual way.

First, the crops are covered with a liter plastic bottle with cut bottom. The bottom of it is spudded with sand and poured through the neck with warm water (45-50 ° C). On top of the first bottle they put a second, five-liter, also without a bottom. It turns out a kind of nesting doll, in which heat is perfectly preserved.

When the first true leaf appears on the plants, the strongest of the three seedlings in each hole is left. After thinning, the plants are abundantly watered and covered, but now only with five-liter bottles. And do not rush to take them off at the beginning of June - let the watermelons and melons bask under plastic caps until June 15-20.

Trick two: a place in the sun

Ideally, if the soil in the area for watermelons and melons is light, sandy. But this is not the most important thing. It is important that the melon gets a lot of sun. So there should not be any trees and shrubs nearby.

But when the fruits begin to ripen, they must be shaded so that they do not bake in the sun. Burdock leaves or newspaper are suitable for this - they are placed on top of watermelons and melons on hot days.

Trick three: plank under the barrel

Another problem of gourds in cool conditions is rot. Dampness rots fruits and even shoots. And to avoid this, you need to put a plank under each melon and watermelon so that they do not come into contact with the soil. Pour 2-3 handfuls of sand at the root collar.

Trick four: watering aside

In gourds, the roots go deep into the soil - in hot and dry conditions, they get their own water. But in the northern regions, where groundwater is often very close, long roots play a cruel joke - having reached the aquifer, they rot.

Therefore, it is important to make the roots grow not in depth, but in breadth. This is easy to do - you need to water the plants not at the root, but along the furrows that are made in the middle between the rows.

However, it is important not to overdo it with watering - they are needed only in very strong heat. And the next day, the earth must be loosened and mulched so that there is no soil crust.

Trick five: trimming lashes

A large number of fruits in a cool short summer will still not have time to ripen, and the bush will spend energy on them to the detriment of the rest of the crop. So no more than 5-6 watermelons or melons should be left on each plant.

In watermelons, female flowers form on the main lash, so they don’t touch it, but the side ones are cut out. And for melons, on the contrary, the main lash is cut off over 5-6 leaves.

With this method of growing melons, the crop can be harvested at the end of August.

How to grow gourds in open ground?

Methods for growing gourds in open ground

Growing by sowing seeds in non-insulated soil

Site selection and crop rotation. In many places in the temperate zone, virgin and fallow lands are being developed. Where the soils are sufficiently fertile, the newly developed lands should be widely used for gourds: they give high yields on them. For example, in the Altai Territory in 1954, on the Kuibyshev collective farm of the Uglovsky District, on a virgin lands from an area of ​​20 hectares, a crop of watermelon of the Pobeditel 395 variety was obtained at 750 centners per 1 hectare. In the same year, the Znamya Kommunizma collective farm in the Kulundinsky district (Altai Territory) harvested 350 centners of table watermelon and 700 centners of feed watermelon per hectare from an area of ​​32 hectares. In the same area, the Khrushchev collective farm, on an area of ​​36 hectares, grew a crop of fodder watermelon at 400 centners per 1 hectare and table watermelon 130 centners per 1 hectare.

The collective farm named after Lenin of the Kalmansky district in the virgin lands received a harvest of 750 centners of pumpkin variety Stopoundovaya per 1 hectare on an area of ​​13 hectares.

In vegetable farms, gourds can be placed in a special crop rotation along with other heat-loving crops. Good predecessors for gourds are legumes, onions, cabbage, root vegetables and seed plants of vegetable crops that do not belong to the pumpkin family. In order to prevent pests and diseases, melon crops should not be returned to their original place earlier than 4 years.

Melons are often sown after winter wheat sown on fertilized fallow.

In areas where melons and gourds occupy small areas, it is better to place them on parison plots, in the aisles of a young garden and in other warm areas. If possible, it is best to choose a site for melons with a southern, southwestern or southeastern slope with light sandy or loamy soil and permeable subsoil.

On the southern slopes, the ripening of fruits in watermelon and melon occurs 1-1 1/2 weeks earlier than on a flat surface, and the fruits, as a rule, are more sugary.

Fertilization and tillage. Gourds place high demands on fertilizer and tillage. For all areas of the zone, deep plowing is effective, the introduction of increased doses of phosphorus and potash fertilizers together with manure or compost. However, the doses of fertilizers should be different depending on soil differences and rainfall. The smallest amount of fertilizers is applied on chernozem, and the largest - on non-chernozem soils.

Preparing seeds for sowing. Before sowing, the seeds must be treated. In the temperate zone, it is especially important for sowing to select the largest seeds that have the greatest weight, since large, heavy seeds yield a crop 25-30% higher. In addition, the experiments of the Gribovskaya vegetable breeding station showed that in the cold spring period, plants from large seeds give a lower percentage of loss. So, in 1953, three batches of seeds of the Gribovskaya Rassadnaya 13 melon were sown. The first batch had an absolute seed weight of 50 g, the second 40 and the third 30 g. Due to the cold weather, the plants did not germinate well, many died. The count of seedlings in early June showed that plants from a batch of seeds with an absolute weight of 50 g were preserved by 39.2%, from a batch of seeds with an absolute weight of 40 g - by 28%, and from a batch with an absolute weight of 30 g - by 23%. ,1%. Similar results were on the Gribov experimental selection frame in 1956.

In the temperate zone, getting quick and friendly entries is of great importance. In most cases, sowing with germinated and soaked seeds is effective. Seeds of melons, pumpkins and zucchini are soaked before sowing one day, table and fodder watermelons - two days. In the experiments of the V. R. Williams All-Union Scientific Research Institute of Feeds, the yield increase from soaking the seeds of the hundred-pound pumpkin for two hours was 21.2% compared with the yield obtained by sowing with dry seeds.

Sowing carried out in such a way that the seedlings do not fall under the influence of the last spring frosts, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is not lower than 12 °. Pumpkin can be sown before watermelons and melons when the soil temperature reaches 8-10°C. On average, 1.5-5 kg ​​of melon seeds, 2-5 kg ​​of watermelon, 4-5 kg ​​of bush pumpkins and marrows, 3-4 kg of long-leafing pumpkins are required per 1 ha. 3-5 pumpkin seeds or 10-15 melon or watermelon seeds are sown in each hole and covered with soil.

The depth of seed placement depends on the composition of the soil. On light soils, melon seeds are buried to a depth of 3-3.5 cm, watermelons - 4-6, pumpkins - 5-8 cm. 3-5, pumpkins 4-5 cm.

If the soil is not moist enough, then in order to get quick, friendly shoots, the holes are watered before sowing and the seeds are placed in moist, freshly watered soil and covered with dry earth.

On large areas, gourds are sown with SKG-6 and CHI-6 seeders.

Care. Crops before germination, as well as young shoots, must be protected from birds. After germination, that is, approximately 10-12 days after sowing, all areas with gourds should be cultivated to a depth of 10-12 cm in two directions with tractor or horse cultivators, depending on the size of the feeding area.

During the summer, at least three loosenings are carried out, of which the second and subsequent loosenings must be done to a depth of 5-6 cm. Before the last cultivation, the whips have to be thrown into rows so as not to damage them with tractor wheels and cultivator paws. After the last plowing, the lashes are straightened over the site, and the soil near the plants is loosened by hand. With the cultivation of the soil around the root neck of the plants, thinning is combined.

The method of powdering lashes into grooves in areas with excessive moisture can be effective only in dry years, since with an excess of moisture in the soil, lashes of watermelons and melons sprinkled with earth rot.

Gourds are pollinated by insects. According to the estimates of the agronomist M. K. Sakharov (1951), the number of visits by bees to the flowers of gourds is 84.8-96.2% of the number of visits to them by other pollinators. He found that from plants whose flowers are pollinated by bees, the seeds are 2 times more viable than from those plants that were pollinated by other insects or artificially. Therefore, during the flowering period, it is necessary to export 1-2 bee colonies per 1 ha to the melon site.

Many melon growers use the technique of turning watermelon fruits 180 ° once or twice to get a more beautiful fruit. This technique is carried out carefully, without twisting the stem, 20 days after the formation of the ovary. The fruits are turned in the direction opposite to the sun to avoid burns. Turning melon fruits is not practiced.

There are a number of works that indicate the expediency of limiting the lashes in gourds by pinching the tops and cutting out non-fruiting shoots. In the Moscow region, in the experiments of the V. R. Williams All-Union Research Institute of Feeds (1953), pinching the tops of pumpkin lashes at the beginning of fruit set increased the yield by 33%. In the experiments of the department of vegetable growing of the Moscow Agricultural Academy named after K. A. Timiryazev (1939), the yield of Etamskaya pumpkin without pinching was 11 tons, and with pinching - 22.5 tons per 1 ha. The work of the same station showed that the pinching of melons sharply increases the yield, as well as the number of ripe fruits. In zucchini, it is recommended to pinch the top of the main stem during budding. At the Gribovskaya vegetable breeding station (Moscow region) positive results were obtained by pinching all the tops of pumpkin, melon and watermelon lashes at a time when 2-3 fruits are formed on the plant. Thanks to pinching, excessive thickening of the lashes is eliminated and fruit growth is enhanced due to the large influx of plastic substances to them. According to the West Siberian Vegetable Experimental Station, pinching the main stem of melons above the 5-6th leaf significantly accelerates fruit ripening.

State farm "Muslyumovsky" in Chelyabinsk region successfully applied pinching at melons of the main stem above the 3rd leaf, lashes of the first order above the 7-8th leaf, lashes of the second order above the 4th leaf, counting from the formed ovary. In pinched plants, crop maturation began two weeks earlier than in controls. According to the state farm, in 8 hours one worker performs pinching the tops of the main lashes on an area of ​​0.15 hectares, and pinching the axes of the first and second order on an area of ​​0.05 hectares.

Growing watermelons in your garden

• Sowing watermelons
• How to water
• Video footage

A lot has been said about the benefits of watermelons: sweet juicy fruits are indicated for diseases of the heart and blood vessels, kidneys, liver, salt metabolism disorders, obesity and many other ailments. It is the richest source of potassium, magnesium, iron, folic acid, vitamins, acids and pectin substances. However, many are simply afraid to buy watermelons for fear of being poisoned by them. It's no secret that unscrupulous entrepreneurs who grow products increase the dose of pesticides and fertilizers in order to get a higher yield. Naturally, natural is much healthier and safer for our health.

Watermelons are very demanding on heat and light; it is not for nothing that they are considered one of the most heat-loving crops. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of at least 15 degrees, and the temperature norm for flowering will be from plus 18 to 20 ° C (in the morning) and up to 25 degrees in the daytime. As soon as the daytime temperature drops below 20 ° C, plant growth will slow down. Choose seeds that are not early maturing, but also not characterized by long maturation. Many summer residents praise the varieties of watermelons Ogonyok and Sugar Baby. They differ from other varieties of watermelons with an average size of 4–6 kg and a dark green color without clearly defined lines, the flesh is dark red, and the stones are black.

Watermelon is drought-resistant due to its well-developed, powerful root system, but at the same time it does not tolerate shading.

Growing watermelons: what soils are suitable

For growing watermelon, sandy loamy soils are suitable, warming up in the sun and protected from strong winds. Absolutely unsuitable is too moist land, with a heavy mechanical composition and characterized by being near groundwater. The best option is neutral or alkaline soil, but not acidic, where very small fruits will grow, which will have time to crack while still green. Change planting sites every year - this is good for the soil: next year, it is better to plant corn or wheat in place of watermelons.

Sowing watermelons

The first shoots will appear after 8-10 days, which will be considered the norm. If the ground is still cold, then the germination time increases, and the seedlings may simply die. This can also lead to the development of pathogenic flora in seedlings, which will further adversely affect their development during the growing season.

Each hole should be filled with ash (1 tablespoon) mixed with earth, humus and nitroammophos (1 teaspoon). In the future, this will increase yields by about 20%. The seeding depth is 5-8 cm. After sowing, mulch the soil surface with humus so that a crust does not appear, which can harm the seedlings when they emerge to the surface.

watermelon care

To accelerate the growth of watermelon, various shelters are used: from simple individual ones to group film ones. At the same time, even simple shelters with a film increase the temperature, thereby accelerating maturation by two to three weeks. In addition, with the help of such devices you will protect plants from pests such as bugs.

You can arrange tunnel shelters with frames made of vines or wire rod. They are removed, as a rule, in early June, on a cloudy day, so that the plants cannot “burn out” under the scorching sun. Otherwise, they will weaken or become a source of infection for mass melons.

As for pollination, when grown under a film, it is carried out manually. To attract bees next to watermelons, you can plant honey plants or spray melons with a weak solution of honey or sugar.

How to water watermelons

During the cultivation of watermelons under the film, they are watered as they dry. After removing the shelters, watering should be stopped. In open ground, watering stops with the beginning of fruit set.

In the future, care comes down to breaking through seedlings, loosening, weeding the soil, destroying weeds and top dressing. Don't let it thicken! Melons are very photophilous, so if you want to grow a large and sweet watermelon in the open field - remember that only one plant should remain in the hole - try to keep 1 sq. meter had no more than three landings.

Video about growing gourds

Video: growing under drip irrigation

Video about square watermelons of Japan