Fastened with no visible fasteners. Drive-in anchor - how to make an anchor that lasts forever? Mounting to chipboard

One of the ways to decorate a room is to use shelves. But they are not only an object for decoration. Much more often they are functional. Shelves are hung on the wall, placed on the floor, some are hung from the ceiling or beams. But the best thing is that they are easy to make yourself, with your own hands.

Types of shelves in the house

Depending on the installation location, shelves can be wall-mounted, floor-mounted or hanging. If the floor shelf has a large height - from a meter and above, it is often called a rack. A few words about hanging ones: usually these are decorative structures that hang on a pipe or a specially driven bracket. This option is popular in rooms where heating pipes run under the ceiling: they just beg to have something hung on them. Shelves are hung on the pipe in the kitchen and bathroom: it’s convenient there.

They are made of wood, fiberboard, and have glass shelves. The same materials are used as stands, but they are also made from metal, plastic and other absolutely incredible things - for example, pipes or bottles.

In living rooms, it is not so important what material the shelf is made of. It is important that its design is in the same style as the interior. Even functionality is not always important: some play a purely decorative role. If they have anything on them, it’s only one or two items. Their role is to give the interior of the home a special style and flavor.

A laconic style of apartment design and the same laconic shelves in a contrasting color. In this interior they - main element The free space above the sofa is organically filled with shelves to match the walls

If we talk about shelves in technical rooms - the kitchen and bathroom, in particular, then in addition to aesthetic considerations, practicality requirements are almost universally added. Even decorative shelves in the kitchen should be washed well. For bathroom shelves, the requirements are generally high: periodically there is very high humidity and materials are required that can withstand it without any harm. There aren't many of them. These are plastic and stainless steel. They also make bathroom shelves from MDF, but they can be used normally if they are in good condition.

Shelves on the wall

In any room there are places on the wall where you just need to hang something. After all, most modern furniture occupies only the lower part - sofas, tables, couches. The upper part remains empty and dissonance arises: the lower part of the room is overloaded and the upper part is half empty or completely empty. These voids on the walls are organically filled with shelves.

The whole system, and the most “dead” space is used - the corner

Structurally, most shelves consist of the actual shelves and lintels. But these components are combined into so many options that it is impossible to count. A simple design is good: you can make any shelves with your own hands. Moreover, these products may be the first self-made things. It's really simple.

How and what to attach it to

It’s not for nothing that we start with fasteners. The design of a wall shelf largely depends on the type of mounting. Or maybe it’s the other way around. It depends on what to dance from...

Traditional hinges

There is a traditional way - on loops. It is suitable for wood and fiberboard, any other material that is thick enough to attach. Screwed onto the sides with self-tapping screws. Then the distance between the centers of the loop holes is measured and marked on the wall (make sure it is horizontal). At the marked points, holes are drilled for the dowel, the dowel is inserted and a dowel-nail with a small head is screwed into it, which fits into a loop or bracket (a pin slightly bent upward). Then a shelf is hung on them.

Not all materials can be drilled. For example, glass shelves. You definitely can't screw anything into them. Fastenings for glass shelves are special: they consist of two parts, between which glass is inserted. Often elastic pads are installed between the holders. The bottom mount usually has a small clamping screw to secure it in place.

Fasteners for glass shelves

The most popular mount for glass shelves is called “pelican” - for its unique shape. It looks good on its own and is available in different colors. The thickness of the glass it can hold is from 8 to 34 mm. You can insert not only glass into it, but also any other material of such thickness. It just looks stylish with glass.

It’s easy to make glass shelves on the wall with it: you buy a mount, order it from a glass workshop the right size and shape pieces of glass with processed edges (or cut them yourself if you know how). All that remains is the assembly itself:

1. Attach the pelicans to the wall. Two dowels each. The case is collapsible - the decorative trim is removed, and there are two holes in the mounting plate. One is higher in the body, the second is lower. We secured it and put the decorative trim in place.
2. Glass was installed.
3. Tightened the screw. All.

There are other forms of similar fasteners. The photo below shows a few of them.

Decorative brackets

Another type of fastening is brackets. They are reliable, some are decorative, so much so that they themselves are decorations.

Concealed installation - shelves without support

And the most amazing device for hidden installation. It makes it possible to hide the fasteners. A seat for the pin and the holder body is cut out at the end, and the shelf is simply put on it.

As you can see, even a simple board or piece of glass on such mounts is not bad. But there is still a sea of ​​​​all sorts of ideas.

Bookshelves

There are strength requirements for bookshelves: they can hold significant weight. Therefore, the fastening, materials and design must be reliable. Traditionally, bookshelves are made of wood, laminated or veneered fiberboard. And then fiberboard with a long span (more than 90 cm) sag over the years.

When planning shelves for books on the walls according to your own dimensions, keep in mind that the distance between the supports should not be more than 90 cm. Then even when fully loaded it will not bend. There are two types and varieties of shelves: wall-mounted and floor-mounted. Both of them can be angular.

In the simplest case, it is a board secured in one of the following ways. Some options, especially when presented correctly, look very good.

And with imagination, several planks turn into a very interesting thing, which can even be the main element of decor. Ideas for self-made collected in the photo gallery.

And this is a serious way to expand the space due to the angles between two windows. Nonlinearity - they are always interesting, and on such a shelf you can put books of different heights

Floor bookshelves can be loaded more seriously. Here the forms are different: there are racks to which shelves are attached. The highlight can be a broken or unusual line of shelves, as well as interesting racks.

This is more like a bookcase or even a cabinet, but the essence does not change - the original color and interesting small shelves in the central part and the structure looks interesting
A very interesting idea - non-linear shelves and lintels made of thick glass

On the manufacture of fountains (both small indoor ones and more substantial ones for country houses, gardens or garden plot) read.

Hanging

Not very numerous, but an original type. The most important thing is that it can be done easily: a few planks, four ropes or two belts and you can get to work.

This is a complex system of blocks...and the shelves can be located at any level. Two planks, four ropes and half an hour of time are all that is needed to make this shelf. How to make a hanging shelf - graphic step-by-step instructions

To the nursery

While the child is very small, I want functional shelves, but with children's drawings. But where can you get these? Do it yourself. Any shelf of the configuration you like can be covered with non-woven wallpaper or thick wrapping paper (glued with PVA). After drying, coat twice with water-based varnish. Such shelves can be washed, but what’s most interesting is that the shelf can change with the child. You tear off the old decor, glue on the new one. The idea is simple, it works perfectly.

For children, the shelves are not very different in design. If we talk about floor or shelving, then they must be strong, taking into account the fact that older children will definitely want to climb on them. Therefore, often even those shelves that stand on the floor are additionally attached to the wall: so that they do not collapse and crush young climbers. Based on these considerations, they are not made tall: even if they fall, it’s not scary.

The shelves in the children's room also differ in color - they are brighter, can be made in the form of letters, and boxes for toys can be installed in them: this makes it easier to keep them in order. In general, functionality and security must be combined.

System with drawers - cleaning will be quick Combination of open and closed shelves - convenient for preschoolers

Shelves and shelves for the kitchen

Say what you like, but in the kitchen the main thing is functionality. There is not much free space even on the walls: the cabinets take up a large area. Therefore, one of the tasks is to make the most of free space. There are interesting ideas for small or even very small gaps between the wall and the refrigerator or other household appliances. Strictly in size, you can make a pokka on wheels, which can be pulled out and completely hidden there. It is wide and narrow (see photo).

It’s easy to make such a retractable shelf-rack on wheels for different jars. Everything you need is at hand and out of the way

Is there some more interesting ideas about saving space. If the sink or station is located near the window, you can take the sides. There is an interesting hanging option - a grid on chains to which all sorts of utensils are attached. But such a shelf is possible if the desktop is not against the wall. Another option for saving space is if the kitchen-dining room is zoned with a counter, you can also make a shelf above it, which will be partially hanging. One part of it rests on the wall, the second on the counter or “hangs” on the ceiling.

Covering the entire wall above your desk with cabinets is not the best the best way out. They look heavy. The problem can be solved by using glass doors, but not everyone likes this. The solution is to make open shelves between the cabinets. They will add more lightness to the interior and the work area will not put so much pressure on the rest of the space.

Glass and open shelves will “lighten” the interior The style is different - the idea is the same Closed and open shelves in one system - convenient and non-standard

Decorative and original

Often, shelves on the wall play a purely decorative role. They are designed to attract attention and this goal is achieved by an unusual shape, contrasting with the walls and color. You can’t bet much on it: one or two things, but how interesting they are.

Another option for “square” shelves. Two identical sets arranged differently If traditional square shelves are decorated around the edges with curly frames, the style turns out to be completely different

Another one interesting topic- glass shelves. Just one glass is not very interesting. Its combination with wood and steel is more attractive. The effects are sometimes unexpected. Glass is assembled on guides: the material is fragile and heavy, and it needs to be held. Steel can do this.

In fact, these systems are intended for creating store interiors, but also in apartments modern style or look stylish.

Also suitable for vintage style

What are shelves made of? Even from pipes. Metal and plastic. Do you have any samples from the renovation? Put it to work and get a designer item, interestingly, assembled from trash.

This is an interesting variation of a bookshelf made of pipes

Fastening the roof rafters of a house can be done in various ways, it all depends on the design features of the rafter frame. The most important thing is that the connection is strong and can withstand various loads associated with climatic conditions terrain.

Methods of fastening rafters

Before you start building a roof, it is important to understand all the intricacies of the process, in particular how to attach the rafters to each other. The frame elements can only be firmly connected using special rafter fasteners. Parts made of wood and metal can act in this capacity.

The wooden elements that are used to connect the nodes of the rafter frame include the following:

• Bars.
• Triangular scarves.
• Nagel.
• Spikes.

Metal elements used for this purpose include the following:

• Nails or screws.
• Bolts complete with nuts and washers.
• Staples and clamps.
• Overlays.
• Loops.
• Anchor bolts.
• Nail and serrated plates.
• Corners.
• Perforated tape.

The use of one or another type of fastening element is determined by the required strength of the structure, its geometry, as well as the magnitude of the load.

Rules for connecting the lower heels of rafter legs

Most often, the rafters rest against the wall with their lower part, and the elements can be connected in this way:

• Directly to the Mauerlat.
• Through the ceiling beams.
• With the help of puffs and rafters.
• Using frame structure strapping.
• Attaching to the upper crown of a house made of logs or timber.

The installation of a hanging rafter system is carried out taking into account the fact that the rigid fastening of the upper part of the elements provides thrust pressure on the walls of the building. To reduce the degree of load, tie ties are used to connect the rafter legs of one truss. In this case, the connection of the building wall occurs with a non-thrust triangle.

If you lay the ceiling beams perpendicular to the walls, you can avoid the use of tie rods. A rafter system without a mauerlat is used in the construction of lightweight mansard roofs, but taking into account the fact that point loads may be applied to the walls. For example, walls made of brick or other piece materials cannot be subjected to point loads; in this case, a Mauerlat is required. To create a roof overhang, the beams must extend beyond the external walls by approximately 0.5 meters. The rafters are also extended to a similar distance, since they are fastened to the edge of the beam.

The rafters should not be allowed to slide along the beams, so it is important to make the connection very strong. Only in this case can deformation of the roof under certain loads be prevented.

Methods for attaching rafters to beams, walls, beams

For most private developers, the pressing question is how to attach the rafters to the timber. Attaching rafter legs can be done in the following ways:

• The emphasis is on the beam.
• Tooth with emphasis.
• Tooth with a spike.

The slope of the slopes determines the number of teeth. Using the methods listed above, the load from one element of the rafter frame can be transferred to another:

• The use of a single tooth cut is permitted if the slopes have a slope of more than 35 degrees. In this situation, a tooth with a tenon is placed in the heel of the rafter leg, and a stop and a socket for the tenon are cut out in the beam. The main thing is that the nest does not go deeper than a third of the thickness of the beam. The notch should be located at a distance of 0.25-0.35 m from the edge of the beam, which is located behind the plane of the wall. The presence of a tenon does not allow the rafter leg to move laterally.
• For a roof with slopes of a slight slope, up to 35 degrees, the installation of rafters involves increasing the contact area of ​​the rafter leg and the beam to increase the supporting area of ​​the structure. To do this, a cut is made into two tenons, into a lock, with a stop and a tenon or without a tenon.

The connection between rafters and beams can also be done using bolts or bolts and clamps.

Options for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

The rafters are fastened to the wall in most cases using a Mauerlat. This element is designed to evenly distribute the load from roofing structure on the load-bearing walls of the building and its foundation. There are two ways to attach rafter legs to the mauerlat: rigid and sliding fastening.

Rigid mount

This method of connection does not allow the connected structural elements to move, bend or rotate. You can achieve this result in the following case:

• If you use metal corners for the rafters, which will connect the rafters to the hemmed support beam. In this case, the rafter leg rests rigidly on the support beam and is secured using steel corners, which are located on the sides of the elements being connected. It is the corners that prevent the element from moving in the transverse direction.
• If you make a gash on the rafter leg and secure it with staples, nails or wire. In this case, the rafters are fastened with nails on both sides of the connection unit, and the third - in the lower part of the element in the vertical direction.

In both cases, additional fixation of the rafters and walls of the house is required using wire or anchor bolts.

Sliding mount

The structural elements connected in this way are able to move relative to the Mauerlat to an acceptable distance. Such fasteners for rafters are obtained by cutting down the rafters and securing them with staples or nails. In addition, you can use “sleds” - special sliding fastenings for rafter legs.

Sliding fastening of beams to the mauerlat is popular in wooden house construction, which is characterized by natural shrinkage. The use of a sliding connection in this case prevents deformation of the rafter system. The sliding of the rafter legs allows the roof structure to adapt to the changing shape of the main structure. Installation of the remaining roof elements is carried out according to the standard scheme.

Fastening rafters in the ridge area

The rafters and ridge are connected using a special technology, which involves the following options:

• Butt connection is considered the most reliable option. To do this, the rafter legs in the upper part are cut at an angle that corresponds to the slope of the slopes of the future roof. In places where the cuts are made, the rafters are connected to each other and fixed with nails no smaller than 150 mm in size. The fasteners must enter at a certain angle and pass into the opposite rafter, ensuring a tight connection. You can connect rafter legs end-to-end using metal or wooden overlays. They are located at the junction, with metal plates fastened with bolts, wooden ones with nails.
• Fastening to a ridge beam also involves cutting the upper part of the rafter legs at a certain angle. However, each rafter element is attached to the ridge girder individually.
• The overlap connection can be called the most in a simple way, in which the rafter legs are applied to each other with their side planes, without sawing off the upper edges. It is important to know how to fasten the rafters together. For fixation, bolts or studs with washers are used.

To prevent the installation of the rafter frame from seeming too complicated, it is recommended to use pre-prepared templates from boards. To do this, take material that matches the size of the rafters and make appropriate cuts on it. All rafter legs are prepared according to the template and raised to the roof.

Installation of sheathing

Properly installed sheathing is the key to a reliable roof. Depending on the chosen roofing covering, the sheathing can be made continuous or sparse.

In most cases, bars or boards are used to make sheathing. The bars are fixed with one fastening element in the connection unit; the board is nailed with two nails, which are placed along the edges. It is not recommended to nail the board with one nail, as in this case it can lead to the material twisting under the influence of heavy loads.

It is allowed to use short lumber for sheathing. The splicing of elements must be done directly on the rafters, while fixing the ends of both parts being connected. It is recommended to place the joints of sheathing elements on adjacent rows on different rafters.

For high-quality installation of the rafter frame, you need to choose the most correct fastening rafters

Furniture screed – special kind fasteners that are used exclusively in furniture production. Such fasteners can not only significantly facilitate the process of assembling furniture, but also become “invisible” after installation. In this article we will look at different kinds fastenings used for assembling wooden cabinet furniture.

The most common and easiest to use type of furniture connection is the confirmat, which allows fasten several parts together at right angles.

In order to tighten furniture elements, you should drill 2 holes:

• the first - under the head of the confirmation (in one piece),
• the second - under the threaded part (in another part).

In this case, it is recommended to use drills with a diameter of six and five millimeters, respectively, or use a combination drill, which will significantly facilitate the procedure for assembling various sections of cabinet furniture.

As a rule, such fasteners are used to connect parts made of solid wood or chipboard (chipboards), and dowels are used in combination with it, acting as guides.

It is necessary to install the confirmat with great care, preferably manually, since when using a screwdriver there is a high probability that the thread will break the hole and the part will fall out during operation.

In addition, confirmat refers to a “visible” type of fastener, so after its installation you will need to use special plugs to hide it from prying eyes and give the furniture an aesthetic appearance.

This type of fastening element is used when assembling furniture in a factory environment, due to the complexity of drilling holes for its installation.

The main advantage of the eccentric screed is its concealability, which prevents the appearance of the cabinet or other cabinet furniture from being spoiled.

In addition, unlike the previous type of furniture tie, the presence of such elements allows you to carry out the procedure of assembling/disassembling interior items an unlimited number of times without damaging them, which, you see, is very convenient when moving frequently.

Also, using this fastening method, it is possible to fix the parts at an angle relative to each other.

As mentioned above, the installation of eccentrics is carried out in the conditions of factory furniture production, since the sampling depths for their installation are at least 12 millimeters. And this despite the fact that the wall thickness of the laminated particle board has a size of 16 millimeters. Therefore, without the use of special equipment, which is impractical to purchase for a one-time installation of interior items, installation of such fasteners is practically impossible.

Screed for sectional elements

This type of furniture fastener consists of a screw and a nut, with which you can tighten two different sections together, for example, the headboard and base of a bed, or two cabinets.

Today, there are several sizes of such fastening elements, the size of which varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard.

As you can guess from the name, such fasteners are used to fix shelves (both glass and plastic) of a wardrobe or kitchen cabinet.

Depending on the installation method, shelf holders are divided into open and hidden. The former are mounted directly to the pieces of furniture (after which a shelf is placed on them), while the latter are something like an eccentric coupler.

Shelf holders in the closet, photo:

The fittings that you see in the photo above are intended for attaching shelves in the closet.

Tabletop fasteners

A special type of furniture tie used to secure two parts of a table top together. It is used exclusively in the production of kitchen furniture and requires special milling of surfaces before installation.

Corner

It is used, as a rule, to fix decorative elements.

This is due to the fact that this method of connection is not particularly durable and does not imply the presence of large loads during operation.

As you can see, there are quite a lot of types of furniture fastenings, with which you can assemble a cabinet, install furniture fittings or a shelf. You can find out more about such details in the photos of furniture fasteners and accessories posted below.

We hope that after reading this article, you will be able to decide on the choice of the type of fastenings you need, as well as subsequent installation.

Do you like to ride a bike, but don't know where to put it? Do you have neither a garage nor a spacious hallway where the “iron horse” could be stored? Maybe you just leave him in a cramped hallway and constantly stumble while trying to get to the kitchen? Or is the bike chained to the battery in the entrance, and you can’t sleep, worrying about its possible loss? There are many questions, but the answer is one – it’s time to think about a wall mount for your bike.

There are three ways to mount a bicycle on the wall:
1. Frame parallel to the wall. The bicycle is located near the wall, taking up quite a lot of space. It is advisable to hang it with the wheels down, so as not to strain yourself when turning the bike over for the next ride. A very convenient solution for storing two or more bicycles.

2. Frame perpendicular to the wall. Takes up less wall space, but more space in the room. Ideal place for vertical mounting there will be a corner behind the refrigerator, front door, geyser, etc. With this method of fastening, the wheels should be located against the wall, and the frame should be parallel to it - this makes it easier to carry the bike along the wall and secure the front wheel to the hook.

3. Mounting under the ceiling on hooks or on a bracket. Most effective method bike storage, especially in rooms with high ceilings. The bracket is a more attractive method, because... does not require special physical effort.

What to consider when choosing a bicycle wall mount?

The first thing that is important to consider when choosing a bike wall mount is the material from which the wall is made. Different types of materials have different densities, so it is not recommended, for example, to hang a bicycle on a plaster wall because... Over time, such fastening may break.

The second thing to think about is how high the bike will hang. Ask a friend to hold the bike at different heights and see how it will be more convenient for you to walk by, and whether the whole structure will fit into the interior. The easiest way is to hang it close to the floor, but then it does not free up space at all. If you hang the bike approximately in the center from floor to ceiling, then you can easily walk without touching the steering wheel, but you still have to work around the pedals. In addition, a person with a fragile physique is unlikely to like making remarkable physical efforts each time to remove the bicycle from the wall.

The most rational and effective would be a wall mount under the ceiling - a lot of space is freed up, and the bracket system will allow you to raise and lower the bike without much effort.

Types of bicycle wall mounts

Hanging a bike on the wall is not only an excellent solution for freeing up space, but also an original interior design move. Numerous developments from well-known companies make it possible not only to store several bikes in a relatively small area, but also to decorate empty walls. There are several types of wall mounts: hooks, racks and shelves.

Hooks

The simplest option for mounting a bicycle on the wall. All you need to do is screw a couple of special hooks into the wall.

By the way, a vertical bicycle rack is implemented using this type - you install the bike between two guides and hang it by the wheel on a hook. Instead of hooks, you can use unnecessary handlebars from a road bike, and if you have several of them, you can make a whole wall with cycling accessories.

Racks

Usually installed on a wall with support on the floor. The racks may have additional hooks for a helmet, jacket and other cycling accessories.

An ideal solution for apartments where several riders live, because the vertical rack can accommodate up to three bicycles at once. It is on this mount that you can implement the idea of ​​storing a bike with a lock, because it usually stretches from floor to ceiling.

Shelves

The most successful solution for those who decided to make their own “ iron horse” another piece of art hanging on the wall. They can be either simple, intended only for storing a bicycle, or multifunctional - for books, bicycle accessories and other small items. By the way, you can mount it on the wall in the form of a shelf with your own hands - you don’t need to have any special skills for this.

How to make a wall mount shelf with your own hands?

To make a shelf mount you will need:

1. a wide board made of natural wood or a sheet of plywood 1 sq.m., recommended thickness - 1.5 cm. It is better not to use MDF or chipboard, because over time, such a shelf may break out of its fastenings;
2. wood glue;
3. wood stain and varnish (optional);
4. mounting bolts with washers that will secure the shelf to the wall.

To determine the required dimensions of your future shelf, measure three parameters:

• the distance from the stem to the end of the grip - this will be the depth of the shelf;
• the diameter of the top tube of the bicycle - this will be the size of the cutout;
• the maximum possible width of the shelf - the smaller the frame size, the shorter the length of the top tube, and the smaller the width of the fastening.

Depending on the dimensions, make a drawing of the main parts.

Saw the board in accordance with the drawing and make a “draft” version of the box (but do not connect the parts together!).

Draw and then cut out the cutout for the top tube. It is better to do this using special equipment.

Now it's time to assemble the shelf. Place all parts on glue. Before using glue, clean the surfaces from dust and degrease them. It is better to remove any remaining glue immediately so that it does not interfere with the painting in the future.

The top panel can be hinged to form a drawer, or you can simply attach it to the base to form a shelf.

Drill holes for the mounting bolts.

Now you can safely hang the shelf on the wall, or you can take the next step - sand all surfaces of the shelf, paint them with stain (can be two colors) and varnish.

An option for making a simpler shelf can be seen here:

A wall mount for a bicycle will be an excellent solution for “parking” a bike in a small apartment. Moreover, this is not only an option for long-term storage(for example, in winter), but also for daily use, because the bike is so easy to remove and put back up. What type of mount to use is decided by the rider himself, depending on the available space and his physical capabilities.

In this article I will try to consider the main methods of connecting furniture parts, providing them with installation tips with diagrams and comments whenever possible.

So, the simplest mounting option, metal or plastic parts(metaboxes, coat hooks, mounting corners) to laminated chipboards, the laminated chipboard sheets themselves between each other and the sheets to the walls - this self-tapping screws. They can be with countersunk heads (in Fig. No. 1, 3,4,5,6), with press washers (in Fig. No. 2) and dowel-nails (in Fig. No. 7), which are used for driving /screwing into walls.

Screws are marked with two meanings. The first number indicates the thread diameter, the second the overall length. Naturally, the larger the diameter and length, the greater the load the self-tapping screw will withstand.

pros

• Ease of use,
• Cheapness

Minuses:

• Relatively small load to withstand.

For tightening, a screwdriver/screwdriver with a corresponding bit is used - usually a cross-shaped one. To avoid cracking of the workpieces, it is necessary to pre-drill the mounting holes - with a drill smaller in diameter than the thread size. It is necessary to drill a recess under the cap. I usually do this with a screwdriver bat.

A reinforced version of self-tapping screws, which also looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing, are confirmations(or European screws). They differ from ordinary screws in their greater thickness, thread pitch, cylindrical hexagon head and blunt end.

There are two main sizes of confirmations used: 50 mm and 75 mm. The former are more common and convenient for tightening 16 mm laminated chipboards, while the latter are better used for working with 26 mm laminated chipboards.

pros

• together,
• Significant holding force

Minuses

• Through fastening, which means a cap visible on the surface (can be covered with decorative plugs),
• Instability to assembly and disassembly (the connection after just 3-4 cycles of assembly and disassembly practically loses its fixing properties).

This fastening method allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, especially when using a footer, without losing the strength of the connection.

This advantage is more than compensated by the complexity of manufacturing. For installation you will need: cylindrical drills (for wood or metal) with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm (5 mm must be with a stop), with a diameter of 15 mm. It is advisable to use a furniture jig for precise assembly.

pros

• Stealth (no visible fasteners are visible from the outside)
• Possibility of tightening parts together

Minuses

• Inside the product, a fairly large eccentric remains visible - 15 mm, which needs to be hidden (with a plastic or self-adhesive plug)
• Complexity (3 parts, 3 holes, special tools)

Eccentric coupler VB35 MD/16 differs from the minifix in the structure of the eccentric and the short rod. It is used mainly for hanging shelves, although it is also perfectly suitable for various types of lids and tabletops. There are two options for rods: short (for hanging shelves on one side) and long (if the shelves should be on both sides of the vertical stand at the same level. In this case, the rod passes through the parts, protruding symmetrically on both sides).

The eccentric itself in this version is closed in a decorative casing (metal or plastic), the color of which can be matched to the color of the chipboard. It looks quite original, and there is no need to hide it. The eccentric is screwed in from below; if necessary, you can drill an additional hole on top of the shelf, which will then have to be closed with a plug.

pros

• Invisible from the outside
• There is no need to hide the eccentric inside the finished product
• Possibility of tightening parts
• Easy to make connections (only 2 holes, instead of three in the minifix)
• Easy installation (the shelf is simply thrown on top and then fixed)
• Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly

Minuses

• Expensive (price about 15 rubles per set)
• The need for specialized tools (Forstner cutter)
• The attachment force is less than that of confirmatories

Furniture screed used mainly for pulling together several cabinets into a single block (for example, in kitchens). It is a threaded connection with two heads for a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver.

To use, you only need a drill of a suitable diameter and a screwdriver.

pros

• Significant holding force
• Easy to install
• Possibility of tightening parts

Minuses

• Narrow specialization (the ability to tighten only parallel parts),
• Visible heads

It consists of as many as five parts: the tie itself, two footers and two bolts with a countersunk head. To work, you will need a 10 mm drill, a screwdriver, a hexagon (metal fittings - screw it in) or a hammer (plastic fittings - hammer it in).

pros

• Significant connection strength
• Unpretentiousness to marking holes
• Easy to manufacture (2 holes)
• Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly
• Invisibility from outside the product
• Possibility of tightening parts

Minuses

Plastic corners a simple and cheap way to connect parts. It differs from the previous one in being more aesthetically pleasing and easier to install (no need to drill anything out at all - it is attached with simple self-tapping screws, but is much less durable. Currently produced a large number of colors - you can match the color of the chipboard so that the element does not catch the eye.

Their variety is metal corners with plastic cover have the same advantages and disadvantages with the exception of slightly higher connection strength (of course, they do not reach the level of an aluminum tie, but they are no longer a plastic corner).

Minuses

• Dimensions (interferes with the installation of other fittings),
• Poor connection strength
• Inability to tighten parts
• Impossibility of repeated assembly and disassembly,

In conclusion, I will say that to choose furniture fittings that are optimal in your case, you should remember a few simple rules:

The fittings must withstand the expected load with some margin;

The fixing elements on the finished product should be as invisible as possible;

Fastener elements accessible to the eye must be covered with decorative plugs (plastic or self-adhesive);

Consider the possibility of subsequent assembly and disassembly of the product.

FOR A BEGINNER FURNITURE MAKER, I WOULD ADVISE USING CONFIRMATIONS AND SCREWS, SOMETIMES SUPPLEMENTING THEM WITH DIFFERENT CORNERS. IN MOST CASES THIS IS ENOUGH FOR A STRONG AND NOT VERY VISIBLE CONNECTION.