Where the sarees are worn. What is a saree and how to wear it

Raja Ravi Varma "Constellation of Musicians"

The sari has long been a symbol of the grace of Indian women. Nowadays, it increasingly attracts the attention of fashion designers and women all over the world, fascinated by the grace, femininity and simplicity of this traditional dress of India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka.

And the truth is, what could be easier: a strip of fabric 4.5 to 8 meters long and 60 to 120 cm widedecorated with ornaments or embroidery. However, there are about 80 different ways draperies of sarees, traditional for a particular region! The most common drapery style is Nivi, originated in the state of Andhra Pradesh.

Usually a sari is worn over a petticoat ( parkar, lehenga, pawadai, pavada, chanyo, ghaghra or shaya, depending on the region) and short blouse ( choli or ravike) with sleeves that can be of different lengths.

Sari history

The word "sari" comes from the Sanskrit word शाटी śāṭī, meaning “a strip of cloth”. In ancient Sanskrit and Buddhist literature, women's clothing was denoted by the word "Sattika".

Sari originated in the era of the Indian civilization, which flourished in the northeast of the Indian subcontinent in 2800-1800. BC. Cotton began to be grown and used here in the 5th millennium BC, silk - in 2450-2000. BC. Natural dyes from that period (indigo, madder and turmeric) are still used today. The oldest known depiction of the sari is a draped priest's statue found in the Indus Valley.

According to literary sources of the 6th century BC, the sari was preceded by an outfit of three pieces of fabric: Antaria - a fishtail-style drapery reminiscent of men's traditional dhoti clothing, in which the fabric freely wrapped around the legs, passed between them and fell in beautiful folds in front; Uttaria - a cape on the shoulders and head, today known as dupatta or ghungat; Stanapatta - a bandage on the chest, by the 1st century A.D. turned into choli.

Authors of the treatise "Dharmashastra" wrote that a woman's clothes should not open the navel, and for some time it became taboo. but "Natya Shastra" - an ancient Indian work describing the canons of dance and costume, - indicates that the navel of the Supreme Deity is the source of life and creativity, therefore, the upper abdomen should be open.

Types of saree

Article in the newspaper "How to wear a sari"

One end of a sari is usually made inconspicuous - when draped, it appears at the bottom, hidden under a layer of fabric. The two long sides of the linen usually have an elegant border, and the other end of the saree ( palluor pallava) about a meter long make the most decorated. It is this edge that is thrown over the shoulder or thrown over the head, so that it is always in sight.

In the past, sarees were made from silk or cotton. The rich could afford airy, thinnest silk sarees that could be slipped through a ring. The poor wore coarse cotton sarees. However, all sarees were handmade and required considerable labor.

Indian women wear a variety of silk and cotton sarees made using the technique ikkathand-painted, stenciled or hand-embroidered. The most expensive silk and brocade sarees - Banasari, Kanchipuram, Paithani, Mysore, Uppada, Bagalpuri, Maheshwari, Chanderi, Mekhela, Ghicha, Narayan pet and Eri - put on for holidays and receptions. The traditional choice for the bride's attire is a sumptuous red silk or brocade saree with rich gold embroidery.

Silk and cotton sarees known as Patola, Pochampalli, Bomkai, Khandua, Shambalpuri, Bargarh, Jamdani, Tant, Mangalagiri, Guntur, Narayan pet, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Nuapatn, Tussar, Ilkal, Kotpad and Manipuri, are worn both on holidays and on weekdays. Sarees, hand-dyed or stenciled, known as Bandhani, Leheria, Bagru, Ajrakh, Sungudi, Kota Dabu, Bagh and Kalamkari, traditionally worn during the rainy season. Modern fabrics such as chiffon, polyester, georgette and satin are also widely used today.

Simple “rustic” sarees are often decorated with threads or ribbons woven into the fabric. Inexpensive sarees are either stenciled or hand-painted with vegetable dyes ( Bhandani). Expensive sarees have exquisite woven geometric, floral or figured patterns, brocade inserts or patterns woven with gold or silver thread ( dawn). Sometimes a Waddanam or Kamarband belt is used as an accessory to fix intricate draperies.

Some sarees are decorated with various types of embroidery. Resham - this is embroidery with colored silk threads. In technology zardozi use gold or silver thread, sometimes pearls and precious stones. Cheap modern versions of zardosi use metal thread, imitation pearls and Swarovski crystals. Gotha Patti - this is a popular form of traditional embroidery for ceremonial sarees, but for simpler outfits, folk types of embroidery are widely used - urine, pakko, kharak, suf, kathi, phulkari and gamthi.

Traditional saree draping styles

Varieties and styles of wearing saree

So it is known more than 80 ways wear a sari. The most common of these is to wrap the sari around the waist, throwing the loose end over your shoulder and exposing your belly. Other drapery styles may require a saree of a specific length or shape.

French explorer Chantal Boulanger divided saree drapery styles into the following groups:

Styles Nivi (Andhra Pradesh State). Besides modern nivi, there is a style kacca niviin which the folds are passed between the legs and tucked at the back at the waist. This allows you to move freely without opening your legs.

Style Bengali and Odia (states of West Bengal and Orissa) has no folds at all. The Bengali saree is wrapped around the waist counterclockwise and then again in the opposite direction. The free end is thus much longer; it passes over the left shoulder and enough tissue is left to cover the head.

Style Gujarati / Rajasthani / Pakistani (Pakistan and the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan): After pleating, as in the Nivi style, the free end at the back passes over the right shoulder, draped at the front and secured at the back.

Style Nepali (Nepal) plays on various forms of the traditional Nivi style.

Styles Maharashtrian / Konkani / Kashta (states of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka): the drapery resembles the male dhoti of the state of Maharashtra, but has many regional and social differences. The center of the saree is placed at the back, the ends are pulled forward and tied tightly, then both ends are wrapped around the legs. For a sari, a cloth over 8 meters long is used, the ends are then passed over the shoulders and cover the upper torso.

Style Madisar (Tamil Nadu state) also uses sarees over 8 meters long and is typical of the Tamil Brahmin women (Ayer and Iyengar).

In style Kodagu (Karnataka state), the folds are not made in the front, but in the back, and the free end is passed from back to front over the right shoulder and is pinned to the rest of the sari.

Gobby Sire (Karnataka State): The sari is wrapped three times around the waist, then criss-cross over the shoulders and tied in a knot.

Style Assamiz (state of Assam). The sari consists of three parts: the lower one (Mekkhela), which is draped at the waist, the veil (Chadar) and the long-sleeved choli.

Manipuri (State of Manipur). The saree also includes three pieces: an Innaphi veil, a Panek bottom drape, and a long sleeved choli.

Style Khasi presents an outfit consisting of several pieces of clothing that give the body a cylindrical shape.

Style Malayali (Kerala state) is a two-piece saree made from unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and a border.

Tribal styles - the sari tightens tightly on the chest, covering it.

How to put on a saree: modern styles

Drapery Nivi begins by tucking the hem of the sari into the waistband of the petticoat. The fabric is wrapped around the body once, then you need to form neat folds below the navel, which are also tucked into the belt. They form a graceful silhouette, which poets in the old days compared to the petals of a flower. Free end saree ( pallu, pallava, seragu or paita, depending on the tongue) is draped diagonally from the right thigh to the left shoulder, partially exposing the belly. It can hang freely to the knees, tucked into a belt, used as a blanket or shawl.

Business style saree / stewardess style. The free silhouette saree is highly appreciated by working women who need to move easily while performing their duties. This is why the saree is the stewardess uniform. Air India and hotel staff Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces... The difference between the business style is that all the folds are carefully ironed and secured with pins. In addition, businesswomen and politicians in India wear elongated choli tucked into the waistband for a more formal look.

These days, the virtues of the sari are appreciated stars of world show business, such as the Naomi Campbell, Julia Roberts, Cameron Diaz, Victoria Beckham, Elizabeth Hurley and many others.

At a time when modern fashion tends to leave less and less clothing on the female body, in India, as it was thousands of years ago, the vast majority of women prefer the sari. Why does every self-respecting Hindu wish to see his wife, daughter, sister or mother dressed in a sari? The answer is that this is not at all because the sari, like the burqa, hides a dear person from prying eyes. In fact, the opposite is true - the unique silhouette of the sari emphasizes in every woman her true beauty, while not focusing on any flaws, even if they are.

Sari - traditional women's clothing in the Indian subcontinent, which is a piece of fabric from 4.5 to 9 meters long, up to 1.2 meters wide, wrapped in a special way around the body. The saree is worn with a blouse known as choli or ravika, and underskirt ( pawada / pawadai in the south, and shaya in eastern India). The most common style of wearing a saree is nivi, when one end is wrapped twice around the hips, draping the legs, and the upper edge is fixed on the tight belt of the lower skirt and then thrown over one shoulder. On the street, women usually throw on the free end of the sari ( pallu) on the head like a shawl. In traditional India, the material from which the sari is made depended on the social and material status of the woman, but the way to wear it was the same for the given area.

As soon as a woman puts on a sari, wonderful transformations take place with her. Due to its incomprehensibly wise sophistication and simplicity, this outfit is able to make the thin and plump - slender, devoid of femininity - graceful, serious - friendly, and frivolous - restrained. This list can be endless, as well as the qualities of a sari.

It is known that in the East, women have worn sarees since time immemorial. It was "in vogue" there much earlier than five thousand years, even at the time of the prosperity of the so-called Aryan or Vedic culture in vast regions of the Earth, which still attracts the close attention of thoughtful researchers. Undoubtedly, since we are also descendants of Indo-Aryans, various aspects of Vedic culture are also attractive to us. The very Sanskrit word "aryan" is translated as "noble". You probably yourself have noticed that the very divine appearance of a woman in a sari sets you up for a proper respectful and respectful attitude towards the most beautiful half of humanity. It is a fact that, in contrast, Western clothing often makes men want to rape women, which it often does.

Sarees were worn by Indian princesses at a time when in some regions of the world they went dressed in animal skins.
Besides the aesthetic qualities, the saree is also very practical. Although it may seem that such a large amount of fabric on a woman's body should cause her inconvenience (the length of a single piece of fabric can vary from 4.5m to 9m, and the width is 1.2m), however, thanks to the choli (a short blouse worn under a sari) part of the back and abdomen remain open and this perfectly protects from the heat. But in the cold season, three layers of fabric at the bottom of the body and the upper part of the sari in the form of a scarf warm.

It should be noted here about the significant influence of the eastern style of clothing on Western people. The same choli blouse, which has been known in the East for thousands of years, is now adopted by Western fashion designers. And the original color of the clothing of the Vedic renounced monk - saffron - is now very popular in Western clothing ensembles. Even in ancient times, people knew that a person's attire carries a lot of information for others: it is an indicator of ethnic, class, professional, confessional, gender and age, it is a manifestation of a person's material and spiritual culture.

The special appeal of the sari also lies in the immense variety of colors and materials - from the most expensive silk to the cheapest cotton fabric. In India, saris are worn by about 400 million women, both Hindu and Muslim. But you cannot find two equally dressed among them. Even the poorest woman there has several dozen saris in which she looks like a princess. And they wear different sarees every day.

Do you want to try dressing in a saree? Everything is ingenious and simple - this piece of fabric is nowhere connected or sewn. Of course, to be draped in a sari, you must know the technique and a couple of basic secrets, otherwise you may end up with something in between a Roman patrician toga and a beetle cocoon. Basically, according to the type of wearing, they distinguish saris "nivi" and "sakacha", ie. sari skirt and sari pants. Today we will talk about the most common type - a sari skirt.

An interesting trend is that now European girls in saris can often be found on the streets of western cities. Sari is especially "traditionally" worn by followers of the Hare Krishna Movement. And not only. For example, Anna Schaufusa, an international fashion model, who became Miss Denmark at the age of eighteen. She is a frequent guest on the pages and covers of prestigious magazines: "Vogue" (Vogue), "Officiel" (Office), "Elle" (Elle), "Paris Match" (Pari Mach). Anna considers the sari to be her natural outfit.

Every foreigner who comes to India is amazed at the beauty and grace of Indian women. Unusual bright clothes give their appearance a unique charm and mystery. Every woman becomes like a Goddess.

Of course, there are a lot of ways to dress a sari in India. Each state has its own tradition of wearing a sari.

Sari - the national dress of an Indian woman, is a cloth of fabric ranging in size from 4-5 (for girls) to 7-8 meters (for women), richly decorated with beautiful ornaments, often embroidered with gold or silver thread. The fabric for the sari, usually cotton or silk, is of the best quality, handmade. It is usually woven by men, and this fabric is saturated with the energy of love and desire to give happiness to the one who puts on this magical clothes. A variety of ornaments and colors speaks of reverence and love for women in India.

The set for wearing a sari also includes a small blouse - choli and a petticoat. Sari is a very comfortable garment, in which a woman feels comfortable in the hot climate of India. By the ornament of the sari, you can find out which province comes from and even to which clan or religious direction its owner belongs.

Dressing up a sari is a great art, but ultimately any woman can master it. The practice of our travels shows that the desire of Russian women to buy and put on a sari is becoming one of the first desires in India.

Moreover, the choice of a sari in an Indian store is not an easy problem, as the choice of colors, ornaments and types of sarees is very large.

You simply cannot do without the help of the seller.

This section shows you how to dress a saree in the classic nivi style. To drape a saree, two elements are required - blouses (blouse) and underskirt (petticoat)... The blouse (the old name for choli) should be fairly narrow and short, with or without sleeves. Usually, the color of the blouse is matched to the color of the sari's border or the main color of the sari. The petticoat should fit snugly around the waist and be secured without the help of an elastic band, as the elastic band can be pulled under the weight of the sari. It is best to use tape. The petticoat should be as close to the main color of the saree as possible.

Sari parts

They have different names in different places. For example, pallu (Hindi) - ackhel (Bengali).

Drapery technique:

Sari accompanies a woman all her life, expressing her mood, joys and sorrows. For various life situations, a special fabric is chosen, by the way it is worn, one can judge the social and family status of its mistress. There are special sarees for joyous events. At the birth of a child or at wedding ceremonies, brocade is usually used in a red tone, as it symbolizes energy, sexuality and fertility.

A white sari almost always means mourning or austerity, a vow of renunciation taken by a woman. Differences in lifestyle, beliefs, moral standards have led to the fact that in each part of the country there is a different way of wearing a sari. In rural areas, sarees are made to look like short trousers to make it easier for a woman to do housework. Among the peoples living in the territory of central India, it looks like a long European dress. Some tribes wear saris without blouses. The length of the classic saree allows the bottom of the saree to be pleated and wrapped around the body over the shoulder, which looks very elegant.

Sari is the pride of an Indian woman. It can be made of sparkling silk or the finest cotton, pastel colors or richly decorated with flowers. It is embroidered with gold threads and decorated with edging. Sarees are romantic, chic, modest. bright, sophisticated and innocent.

The easiest way to intrigue a man is to wear an elegant saree that reveals part of the back. It will favorably emphasize the figure and at the same time hide flaws. In a sari, a woman becomes fragile and feminine. The saree does not depend on fashion trends. Wearing it, a woman creates a style with her own hands, changing the drapery, experimenting with color and fabric. This is why saree is becoming more and more popular all over the world. The success of the saree lies in its simplicity, comfort and elegance.

The first mentions of the sari appeared in Hindu literature and art as early as 3000 BC. One of the ancient legends tells: “They say that the sari was born on the loom of a magic weaver. He dreamed of a woman. The glitter of her tears. About her flowing hair. Shades of her mood. The softness of her touch. All this he weaved together. He couldn't stop. He has woven many yards. And when he was tired, he laughed, laughed, laughed. And his dreams were embodied in beautiful women's clothing. "

In Indian legends, fabric represents the creation of the universe. Sutra (thread) is the basis, and sutradhara (weaver) is the creator or creator of the universe. The word itself sari came from Prakrit word sattika... In sanskrit Sati means strip of fabric.

The history of Indian clothing is deeply rooted in history The Indian civilization which flourished 2800-1800 BC in the territory of modern India (Gujarat, Haryana and Rajasthan) and Pakistan (Punjab province). The earliest known description of a sari in the Indian subcontinent is a statue of a priest of the Indus Valley, dressed in draped cloth.

Some costume historians believe that the masculinethe dhoti (the oldest Indian draped garment) preceded the sari. Until the XIV century dhoti worn by both men and women. Sculptures of Gandhara (I-VI century AD), depict goddesses and dancers, dressed in a kind of loincloth, which falls freely, covering the legs, and is folded in front. Above the waist, the body remains naked. From such written sources as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, it is known that the daily dress of both men and women consisted of dhoti or lungi (sarong), draped legs, and bedspreads, which covered the shoulders or thrown over the head. Sari one-piece fabric is a later innovation. Only from the 4th century n. e. some rules of wearing are formed dhoti and sari, elements of difference between men's and women's clothing appear, and regional types begin to stand out in the costume. At its core, the saree has remained almost unchanged for many millennia.

History is a particular controversy choli, and a petticoat. Some researchers claim that they were unknown until the colonization of India by the British, and that these costume details were introduced to satisfy Victorian demands for modesty. Previously, women wore only one draped linen and casually exposed their breasts. Other historians point to much textual and artistic evidence for the existence of various forms of chest bands, scarves and veils.

Beforespan\u003e in South India, women from many tribes wore only saris and left the upper body exposed. Even today, women in some rural areas do not wear choli.

How to wear a sari?

There are dozens of ways to wear a sari.

Assamese style Sari consists of two parts (mekkhela - chkhador).	A saree dressed in this style has no folds, it drapes elegantly all over the body.	The option is interesting in that the folds are at the back, and the end of the sari is rather small and draped over the shoulder.
Gujarati style The saree is dressed in the same nivi style, but the end of the saree is in front.	The nine-yard sari is draped in the shape of bloomers. Traditionally, these saris are worn for religious and wedding ceremonies in southern India.	Residents of the state of Maharashtra in southern India wear nine-yard saris.
Most popular style	The saree is dressed like a salwar. This is how the sari is worn by men or actors (dancers) portraying men.

And, finally, the method that interests the Odissi dancers the most. The traditional way of dressing the sari in the state of Orissa.

And some additions:

In India, women's clothing comes in many varieties and is closely related to local culture, religion and climate.

The traditional dress for women in North and West India is sari or gagra-choli (lehenga-choli), while women in South India wear saris and girls wear pattu-pawadai. A sari made of silk is considered the most elegant. Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is one of the fashionable capitals of India. Traditional clothing is usually worn in rural India. Women's sari is a long sheet of dyed fabric that drapes into simple or fancy blouses. Little girls wear pavada. Both sarees and pawada often have beautiful patterns. Bindi is part of women's makeup. Indo-Western clothing is a fusion of Western and Indian sub-continental fashions. Churidar, dupatta, khara-dupatta, gamucha, kurta, mundum-neryathum and shervani, among others.

In India, there are clear differences between traditional men's and women's clothing. This is especially evident in rural areas, although in cities, due to the influence of Western fashion, there are no longer such strict differences. Girls until puberty wear a long skirt called a langa (pawada in Andhra) and a short blouse called a choli.

Sari is known by different names in different regions of India. In Kerala, a white sari with a gold stripe is known as kavanis ( kavanis) and is only worn on special occasions. A plain white sari is worn everyday and is called mundu ( mundu). In Tamil Nadu, saris are called pudawai ( pudavai), and in Karnataka - kupsas ( kupsas) .

Gagra-choli (lehenga-choli)

Gagra-choli or lehenga-choli are traditional clothes of women of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Punjabi women also wear them and even use them in some folk dances. This costume is a combination of lehengi, tight choli and odhani ( odhani). Lehenga is a form of a long skirt that has pleats. Usually lehenga is decorated or has large stripes at the bottom. Choli is a blouse, usually concealed, that is close to the body and has short sleeves and a deep neckline.

Women wear a variety of styles of gagra choli, ranging from simple cotton lehenga choli as casual wear to the traditional gagra with mirrored embellishments commonly worn at a festival for the garba dance, or a fully embellished lehengu during the wedding ceremony worn by the bride.

Popular among unmarried women, besides salvara-kamiz, are also gagra-choli and langa-odhani.

Lenga-choli - can have many options, but an integral part of this costume is a skirt (lenga), a blouse (choli, which can be short or long, depending on the model) and a cape.

Salwar Kameez

Salwar kameez is a traditional dress for women in Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir and has become the most popular dress for women. Salwar kameez consists of wide trousers (salwar), which is tapered at the ankles and a tunic (kameez). It is often incorrectly referred to as the "Punjabi costume" or simply "salwar" in the north and "churidar" in the south. Women in most cases wear dupatta with salwar kameez ( dupatta) or odani ( odani) (veil) to cover the head or shoulders. Head and shoulder coverings in India were introduced by Muslims and originate from the Islamic era and old Persian culture. This is common in Pakistan and Afghanistan. Salwar kameez was always worn with a scarf called a dupatta, which covers the head and chest. The material for the dupatta usually depends on the costume and is usually cotton, georgette, silk and chiffon. This dress is worn by almost every teenage girl instead of western clothing. Salwar Kameez is most common in the northwestern part of India. Most actresses wear salwar kameez in Bollywood films.

Churidar-kurta

Churidar is a variant of the salwar, which is free to the knees and then fitted to the calves. Salwar is a baggy, pleated pajamas that tapers at the ankles, while the churidar folds from the knees and curls up at the ankles. Usually, a long kurta that reaches down to the knees is worn with a churidar.

Pattu pawadai

Pattu-pawadai (in Tamil) or langa-dawani (in Kannada), or langa-oni (in Telugu) is a traditional South Indian dress usually worn by little girls and teenage girls. The pavada is usually made of silk and has a conical shape with the ends hanging down to the toes. A common pawada has a golden line at the very end of it at the level of the feet.

Girls in South India often wear patta-pawadai or langa-davani during traditional ceremonies.

Mundum-neryathum

Pattu pawadai (left), mundum neriyathum (right)

Mundum-neryathum is the most ancient form of sari, which covers only the lower part of the body, including the chest and abdomen. This is a traditional dress for women from Kerala in South India. The main traditional part is the mundu, or lower part of the mundum-neryathum, which is an ancient form of sari called thuni (cloth) in the Malayalam language, while neryathu is the upper part of the mundu.

Mekkhela-chador

Mekkhela-chador (Assam. মেখেলা চাদৰ) is the traditional dress of Assamese women of all ages. This dress has three main parts that are draped around the entire body.

The lower part, wrapped around the waist, is called a mekhela (Assam. মেখেলা). Mekkhela is shaped like a sarong - a very wide cylindrical fabric that is rolled into folds that are fitted and rolled up around the waist. The folds are on the right side as a counterweight to the Nivi style in the saree, whose folds are on the left side. Ribbons are not used to tie the mekhela around the waist, although the petticoat has garter ribbons.

The upper part of the dress is called chador (or sador) (assam. চাদৰ) - a very long fabric, one end of which is tucked up to the top of the mekkhela, and the rest covers the upper body. Chador has triangular folds. A fitted blouse is worn over the chest.

The third part of the dress is called riha, which is worn on the chador. Riha is very narrow. This traditional dress of Assamese women is well known for its interesting patterns on the body and on the edges. Women wear them during important religious and ceremonial marriage events. Riha dresses exactly like a chador and is used as an orni.

Beautiful and bright, mysterious and very feminine - this is how Indian women look in a traditional dress - a sari. European traditions that came to India at the end of the 19th century along with the colonization could not oust this outfit from the wardrobe of Indian women. Until now, many of the fair sex of this country prefer it to European clothes. And even the most fashionable and modern girls wear sarees for family celebrations and their own weddings.

What does a saree look like?

In translation from the ancient language of India, Sanskrit "sari" or "sati" is translated as "a long strip of fabric." The width of the canvas is about 1.1-1.2 meters, and the length depends on the age, its owner. For a young girl, 4-5 meters of fabric is enough, and for adult married women, the length of a sari ranges from 7 to 9 meters. In some cases, the length of the traditional Indian dress can reach 12 meters. The sari is wrapped around the body, forming several layers around the legs, and then throwing the remaining end over the shoulder and even covering the hair with it.

A short top or sweater with sleeves is worn under the sari, leaving the navel open. They are called choli or ravika. The fabric is held on the body by attaching a long skirt to the belt, which is called differently in different parts of the country:

• falling or falling in the south;
• shaya in the east;
• lenga or langa in the southwest;
• lehenga in the north;
• gagra, parkar or chania in the west.

The length of the skirt should be slightly shorter than the bottom edge of the sari, and its color, like the color of the top or blouse, should match the main shade of the outfit. In some cases, the color of the choli can be contrasting, on the contrary, to emphasize the color of the saree.

Indian women began to wear additional clothes under the sari after the arrival of the colonizers - Europeans and Muslims - in India. By covering their legs and breasts, the women of India not only obeyed the moral requirements of Western countries, but also protected themselves from the encroachments of men.

Decorate with edging sarees and pallu. The edging runs along the lower and upper edges of the fabric, and the pallu is called the part of the rectangle that is thrown over the left shoulder and covers the head. If a woman wants to pay attention to her jewelry, then she wears a plain sari without finishing.

The history of the appearance of the outfit

It is not known for certain when the sari was born. But already in the third millennium BC, this outfit was worn by priests. There is also a mention in the annals that the sari was a universal clothing for both men and women.

There are several legends about the appearance of the sari. One of them is romantic, the other is more formal.

1. Romantic legend

A young and skilled weaver lived in ancient India. He fell in love with a beautiful girl and, dreaming of her at work, weaved a long and incredibly beautiful piece of fabric. Having donated this fabric to his beloved, who wrapped herself in it like a dress, the weaver founded one of the symbols of his country - a sari.

1. Divine or official legend

Many, many millennia ago, the Pandav king ruled the country and he had a beautiful wife Draupadi. The Pandavas were very passionate and greedy. In the heat of the game, he lost not only all his money and the state, but also all his relatives and his wife.

Wanting to humiliate the losing tsar even more, the victors wanted to strip his wife to the naked in front of the crowd. But the woman, who did not want to be disgraced, fervently prayed to God Krishna, and he heard her call for help. Krishna gave the beauty an infinitely long robe. It was useless to try to remove Draupadi's dress. No matter how they unwound him, the beautiful ruler still remained dressed.

National characteristics

Like many centuries ago, a sari can tell a lot about its owner. The color, composition of the fabric and its pattern, the way of draping depends on the place of residence, age, family and social status of a woman, her status.

Sarees are traditionally made from natural fabrics. Exquisite silks, adorned with intricate embroidery and precious stones, are dressed for special occasions. For everyday wear, simpler and more practical cotton, crepe, georgette, chiffon or organza are used.

Only men have the right to weave, dye and decorate sarees. This process is quite laborious and can take several months.

The color of the fabric is of particular importance:

• red symbolizes a happy family life. In India it is the color of brides;
• white, as a symbol of humility, is worn by widows;
• the yellow color of fertility and prosperity is used by young mothers, be sure to wear an appropriate sari for 7 days after childbirth;
• a blue sari speaks of the low class of its owner;
• orange, as a symbol of holiness and the sun, is preferred by representatives of religious professions.

Sari cost

In India, everyone can afford to buy a sari. The cost of the simplest copies starts from several hundred rupees. A more expensive option will cost several thousand local money. And the price of the most exclusive, high quality and ornate sarees can run up to a million dollars.

Years, decades and centuries pass, fashion and style change, but the sari, as a symbol of its country, continues to be a popular clothing among Indian women, preserving traditions and attracting the attention of the whole world.

Anyone who has ever been to India or at least watched Indian films, of course, noticed how colorfully Indian women dress. The variety of colorful sarees is endless, but some colors in clothes are more common, and some are less common. What is the reason for this, and is there any hidden meaning in this?

The color red is very important to Hindus. They use it for significant events, such as weddings, childbirth, all kinds of holidays. Red is not only the color of formal wear; decorations in temples, costumes of statues of especially revered gods, sindur powder, which the groom puts on the bride's parting, is also red. If a woman dies before her husband, her body is clothed in a red sari so that in the heavenly worlds she will meet him as a bride. It is also believed that red is the color of the goddess Shakti, who personifies strength.

Orange (saffron) is primarily the color of fire. It symbolizes purity that has passed the test of fire. It also means religious asceticism, rejection of worldly life in men's clothing and fidelity, eternal femininity and the warmth of the hearth - in women's. In the old days, orange-colored clothing was worn by warriors from the Rajput caste.

Yellow is the color symbolizing knowledge and teaching, happiness, harmony, meditation, the power of reason. This is the color of spring, the awakening of the mind. The gods Vishnu, Shiva and Ganesha, as well as clergymen, wear yellow clothes. In some regions, it is customary for a woman to wear a yellow sari for seven days after giving birth, as yellow is considered purifying.

Green symbolizes peace and happiness, peace of mind. It is the color of nature, soothing and at the same time pleasing to the eye.

Blue is the color of strength, masculinity, power, the fight against evil. Many Indian deities have blue clothing or skin. In some regions, blue clothing is worn by members of the lower castes. This tradition is due to the fact that the extraction of indigo blue paint is an unclean and ungrateful business, and only the poorest people were engaged in it.

White, according to the philosophy of Hinduism, is a mixture of the basic seven colors, and therefore it carries a particle of each of them. He personifies holiness, purity, peace and knowledge. White is the color of the goddess of knowledge Saraswati, who is always dressed in a white sari and sits on a white lotus. Other famous Indian deities and their servants also have various elements of white in their robes. Widows in India wear plain white saris as a symbol of loyalty and asceticism. The difference between a widow's sari is that it does not have any jewelry and embroidery, and a widow is also not allowed to wear bracelets, necklaces and earrings. In a special way, white is referred to in the south of India. Here he is perceived extremely positively and associated with a blossoming lotus flower.

The Indians give special meaning to the drawings and ornaments on the sari. Some of the most common images are mango, fish and elephant. Mango symbolizes abundance and fertility. The elephant also personifies fertility, as well as power and water. Fish is a sign of abundance. This drawing also symbolizes supernatural powers. Floral ornaments are very popular.

At different times of the year and even throughout the day, it is considered good practice to wear different colors of saree. For example, in the morning, white or light shades are best, and at night - bright, juicy colors. In the hot season, it is customary to wear shades of green and blue, as they visually create a cool effect. In the rainy season, they wear natural, natural colors: yellow, pale green, saffron, reddish orange, pink.

Sari clothing is a rectangular piece of fabric with a length of 5 to 9 m and a width of up to 1.2 m. This footage allows a woman of any size to wear a sari. Sari makes a woman elegant and sensual and stylish at the same time.

The word sari comes from the Prakrit word sattika, which means a strip of cloth. In India, fabric represents the creation of the universe. "Sutra" (thread) is the basis, "sutradhara" (weaver) - the creator or creator of the universe. The earliest description of a sari known in Indian history is a statue of a priest in the Indus Valley, dressed in draped cloth.

A saree consisting of one piece of fabric is a later innovation. In more ancient times, a woman's costume, like a man's, consisted of a loincloth and a draped piece of fabric; above the waist, the body remained naked. This garment was called dhoti, and all this could be afforded due to the hot climate of India. Ancient Indian sculptures and deities are depicted wearing a similar headband. This whole outfit was complemented by a veil that covered the shoulders and threw over the head. According to historians, it was dhoti that was gradually transformed into saris among women.

From the IV century A.D. e. the rules for wearing dhoti and sari are already being formed, and elements of distinction between men's and women's clothing are emerging.

The fabric used for a sari is usually ornamental in a variety of colors that vary by caste and region of the country. When designing a sari, various types of draperies are used, which reflect the age, status, profession and religion of a woman.

A wide variety of materials with a wide variety of color palettes adorn the saree and make a woman attractive. Fantasy exotic prints, printed or jacquard ornaments, materials embroidered with beads and pearls - all this is the basis for creating a modern national sari costume.

It is very important to properly drape the saree so that the slightest inaccuracy does not ruin the entire outfit. One of the methods often used by the people is when women wrap a sari like a dhoti, then lay it obliquely on the chest, passing it under one shoulder on the back and in front over the other shoulder.

The most common way of dressing a sari was invented by the wives of Indian rajas. They draped the nivi-style saree that is still popular today. This style differs in that the saree is wrapped once or twice around the hips. Most of the fabric is gathered at the waist in small folds (in an accordion) and secured in front. The rest is draped obliquely across the chest and slung over the left shoulder. Hanging down the edge of the sari - pallu, which is adorned with the richest decor. Women often throw this edge - pallu on their heads, hiding from the scorching rays of the sun.

There is another way to design a pallu. If the end of the fabric is long enough (1.5 - 2 meters), then it is pulled between the legs and then thrown over the left shoulder. It turns out clothes that look like pants.

And another popular type of wearing a saree is with a choli blouse and a long skirt. Choli is a short blouse that is worn under the sari. Previously, choli only covered the chest, now both the chest and the back. Choli have a close cut, which is done with darts or lacing on the back. Thus, the shape of the body is emphasized. This is the main common feature of all types of choli. Otherwise, they may differ in the presence of sleeves or be sleeveless, with straps. Sleeves can be either set-in or one-piece.

The sleeves are usually up to the elbow. The length of the choli is limited under the bust, leaving the rest of the body exposed. Choli are made of fabric in bright colors that contrast with the color of the sari. The long skirt is called pawada.

The decorative design of the sari is very rich, the most common colors are green, green-blue, golden-yellow, scarlet.

The saree has remained almost unchanged for many millennia.
Everyday and elegant costumes of an Indian woman necessarily include a sari - so much it corresponds to the national appearance of the people.

Photo above - Giorgio Armani
Photo below - Monique Lhuillier

Indian sarees have inspired contemporary designers. Eastern fashion has returned to the catwalk more than once during the twentieth century. Cotton tunics, fabrics embroidered with gold threads, glitter of beads and rhinestones, patchwork dresses, jackets from, saris in evening dresses - all this is still the actual wardrobe of fashionistas today.