Rules for installing gutters. Installation of gutters for a private home: types of systems, materials, installation and fastening

One of the final stages of building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from precipitation and prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowledge of the design and installation rules of gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has remained virtually unchanged over the years - the main components still remain gutters and risers in the form of vertically located pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is on a grand scale, and today you can purchase ready-made elements for any, even the most complex systems, as long as material capabilities allow.

After the necessary calculations, the required number of parts is purchased, then they are folded according to the principle of a designer and mounted according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to the indicated elements, the installation kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build the structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of drains based on material of manufacture

Before purchasing and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer element sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

design– drawing up a diagram, selecting components, calculations;
assembly of the water intake part of the system– mainly horizontal elements;
installation of risers, directing precipitation into.

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 – design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roofing surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be removed in full, the following points should be clarified:

Number of drainage gutters. A gable roof has two of them, and a hip roof has four, connected into a continuous contour for a more efficient drainage system. If there are more slopes, then there is a gutter under each one.
Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are located at the corners of the job - there can be 2,3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
Bracket type. Usually two types are used: long ones are mounted on the sheathing, even before laying the final roofing covering, and short ones are fixed on the front board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered drainage, gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

The location of the risers largely determines whether the system can cope with the drainage of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

To correctly install funnels and compensators, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, angle of inclination, total area roofs

You should not forget about the aesthetic side and ease of use - drainpipes should not protrude far forward from the facade, or go onto pedestrian paths or adjacent areas.

Calculations are made individually; there are no universal offers.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

the length of the gutters will be calculated based on the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm for linear expansion for every 12 m;
connecting elements for gutters are selected based on the standard length of one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - another funnel or compensator;
the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; don’t forget about additional ones - for funnels;
the length of the drainpipes is determined by the height of the walls minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - at intervals of 1.2-1.5 from them.

A couple more important dimensions that should be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the downpipes.

Due to the protruding eaves, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve this, use elbows, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the facade

If the area of the slope does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage #2 – installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets that usually support gutters, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing covering to expose the sheathing.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, fix short hooks to the front side of the cornice trim.

The holders are secured in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, to a maximum of 2/3 of its width

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric runoff over the edge, as well as the accumulation of snow.

The brackets are mounted in the following order:

preliminary fitting and selection of length/installation location;
determining the angle of inclination towards the drainage funnel;
bending of holders;
installation of extreme brackets;
installation of other elements along a pre-tensioned cord.

After installing the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, place it in the right place against the gutter, outline the outline, then remove it and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel to the hole.

To seal the connection, coat an area 0.5-0.7 cm wide with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply applied from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with an already fixed funnel. Then the next one joins it, and so on until the highest point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also coated with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at the extreme points that do not end in funnels.

Installation of short brackets is done differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the front board. Fastening element has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a slight protrusion beyond the cornice, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage #3 – installation of drainpipes

Assembly of the riser begins from the top part - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installing elbows: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to maintain the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the coupling connectors

Starting from the funnel and the joint of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps to secure the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with the clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, clamps modern systems On the inside they are equipped with a dense rubber seal.

Installation of gutters

Before installing the horizontal part of the drain, which consists of gutters connected in series, you need to measure the total length of the cornice and mark the places where the brackets will be fixed. The distance between the brackets should not be more than 60 centimeters. If you have doubts about the strength of the plastic gutter structure, then the fasteners can be placed after 30 centimeters, this will make the system even more durable and will not allow it to collapse during heavy rains or large quantities snow.

Then you need to determine the angle of inclination of the horizontal part of the system. To do this, you need to determine the position of the first and last brackets, and then stretch the cord between them. After this, you need to make markings to fix the remaining brackets, observing the spacing of their placement.

The installation process of the gutter should begin from their edges, at the same time it must be taken into account that the vertical part of the drain pipe should be no further than 15 centimeters from the nearest fastening.

Advantages of PVC over metal for drainage systems

Gutters for roofs of houses are made from various materials:

polyvinyl chloride;
steel with anti-corrosion galvanization;
metal coated with polymers;
copper;

The choice of a plastic gutter base is more optimal for several reasons, the main ones: lower load on the house structure and lower cost.

Many people believe that metal is much stronger and more reliable than PVC, but modern technologies They create modified and reinforced plastic that can function properly in constantly changing weather conditions. Companies that have their own production, including the Alta Profile company, add modifiers to the composition of polyvinyl chloride, which seriously increase the stability of the plastic. There are many advantages of Alta profile plastic gutters:

Wide temperature range. Plastic parts specially designed to withstand large changes

This is very important for the Russian climate, when the heat in summer can be stifling, and the frost in winter can be bitter and penetrating. PVC profile from the Alta company retains its qualities from minus to plus 50 degrees Celsius

Important. You can be sure that in summer time the drain will not melt, and in winter it will not burst

High strength characteristics. Naturally, PVC is inferior to metal in this regard, but this technological material can easily withstand the loads that are placed on the drain during operation. If you install all the parts of the system correctly, then the plastic drain will not be afraid of heavy melted snow falling from the roof in the spring.

Durability. In this indicator, polyvinyl chloride outperforms metal - if in atmospheric conditions, with regular contact with water, metal parts, even galvanized, last about 7-8 years, plastic drainage - about 25 years.

Low weight of the entire structure

This is important because the greater the load on the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house, the faster they collapse. Considering the weight of the entire roof (rafter system, roofing material), it makes sense to choose a drainage system made of plastic

Tightness. This is of great importance for a high-quality drainage system. The absence of leaks protects against liquid getting on the walls and foundation of the building. The Alta Profile company creates systems with effective insulation of parts - all drainage elements have rubber seals that prevent water from flowing even through minimal gaps. Special sealants are also used that additionally protect against water.

Excellent conductivity. Plastic pipes have a smooth surface, which prevents blockages from occurring - leaves and other small debris simply do not stick to the inner walls.

Attention. The surface is so smooth that even ice cannot grip

Low noise level. PVC is made in such a way as to provide good sound insulation and not create noise when removing precipitation from the roof. This is an obvious advantage over metal gutters.

Easy installation. The entire design of the drainage system is logical. When purchasing the Alta kit, the consumer receives a profile detailed instructions to install the system on the roof with your own hands.

Great looks. A gutter is not just an impersonal mechanism for removing precipitation from the roof, now it is a design element that makes the house more beautiful

What is important is that it does not set off the architecture of the building, but emphasizes all the advantageous places. In addition to functionality, the system adds neatness and style to any home.

Low cost. This indicator is important for most Russian families, especially when building your own house, when the costs are already high. Alta profile plastic gutters are an opportunity to purchase high-quality products at an adequate cost.

Description of drainage system elements

Before describing the installation process on the roof, you should find out what the drainage system generally consists of.

Gutters and pipes. They are necessary for collecting and removing sediments. Gutters are installed at the edge of the eaves to catch water from the roof. They are mounted with a slight slope so that the liquid does not linger, but moves towards the pipes. Alpha profile produces these parts in lengths of 3 m or 4 m. Pipe diameter is 8 or 10 cm.

Water intake funnels. This part, connecting the gutter to the pipe, directs the liquid down. There are two types:

internal funnels;
external funnels.

The difference between them is that the installation of the first is more complicated - they are installed directly into the roofs (if they are sloping or straight). If the roof is pitched at a fairly steep slope, gutters with external funnels are installed along its perimeter to remove precipitation.

Attention. In Russia, pitched roofs are accepted, which is why systems with external funnels are used in private housing construction. Knees

They are used to connect funnels and pipes and are designed to ensure high-quality drainage because they are made at an angle of 45 degrees. There are also parts with an angle of 72 degrees

Knee. They are used to connect funnels and pipes and are designed to ensure high-quality drainage because they are made at an angle of 45 degrees. There are also parts with an angle of 72 degrees.

At the edges of the roof, where the direction changes, corner gutters are used, most often with a right angle.

Protective grilles and plugs. The former protect pipes and gutters from large debris entering them, which can create an obstacle to the removal of precipitation from the roof, while the latter are attached to the edges of the gutters to insulate the system.

At the bottom of the pipe, for more convenient removal of liquid, drain outlets are installed - being at an angle, they drain water from the roof to the sides of the foundation.

Brackets, clamps, couplings for fastening parts to the roof and walls of the house.

The most common mistakes when installing drainage systems

When installing a drainage system yourself, you must carefully adhere to technical recommendations at each stage.

This will help you avoid common mistakes:

the distance between the brackets should not exceed 60 cm in order to avoid deflections under maximum load on the drainage system;
Do not clamp the pipe with clamps to allow it to expand or contract under the influence of ambient temperature;
if the geometry of the house contains internal corners in which a drain pipe can be located, which in the future is quite difficult to maintain and carry out preventive measures, and there is the possibility of redistributing water flows from the roof, then it is better to avoid installing it inside and move it to the outer corners or place it in the middle .

The presence of a drain ensures the removal of water from the roof and protects the facade of the walls, but the final removal of water can be ensured by the installation of a system such as a storm sewer.

Bracket installation

gutters;
drainpipes;
funnels;
additional accessories.

According to the shape of the gutter, they distinguish :

According to the material of manufacture :

Forms of designs

The easiest way to make a gutter with your own hands is from painted or galvanized metal sheets. You can give it a rectangular or semicircular shape.

Most often, round gutters are installed.

You can make a semicircular shape using a rolling tool by cutting a piece of galvanized pipe. First you need to cut the metal sheet required sizes. To impart sufficient rigidity and strength to the structure, its edges should be bent and connected with strips.

In a similar way, you can make round pipes with your own hands. The edges of the sheet should be folded (folded). Then connect and then bend with a mallet. A rectangular pipe can be made using a bending machine or a simple rail. Professionally made elements of the drainage system look beautiful. You can purchase them and install the water supply system yourself.

The resulting gutters with a slight slope are mounted around the perimeter of the roof and secured. At the junction points of the gutters, connectors cut from steel sheet are used.

Installation procedure for polymer drainpipes

To install a plastic pipe system for drainage, you need to perform work divided into several stages:

Initially, you need to take into account that the installation of the drainage system must be done at a certain angle with a slope in the direction of flow in order to eliminate the possibility of water stagnation.
The fastening parts of the drainage system must be installed during the construction of the building.
Directly when installing the system, first lay gutters for drainage, connect them to each other and install funnels to collect water. Covers are installed at the ends of the gutters.
After completing this step, the vertical part of the drainpipe is installed to the drainage funnel.
The vertical section of the drain pipe is attached to the wall using brackets that are pre-installed.

Features of installing a water drainage system

The gutter is secured to the building and roof using special brackets. As a norm, the rule is accepted according to which the gutter is fastened every meter

When calculating drainpipes, take into account that every 10 meters of gutter must be equipped with one drainpipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It is very useful to know the roof area, and even better, its projection

This is due to the fact that a roof with an area of 100 m2 with a slope of 30° will absorb more precipitation than the same roof with a slope of 45°. Experts in the construction industry have long established that every 100 m2 of roof projection must be equipped with one drainpipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Drainpipes are also secured with clamps, only of a slightly different type than for gutters. Very often, buildings and structures have a complex roof structure, requiring additional installation of drainpipes. In this regard, when calculating the drainage system, specialists take into account the presence of gables, projections, bay windows and other architectural features.

One of the cheapest options for a modern drainage system is galvanized steel systems. They have good performance properties and a long service life. The main advantage that distinguishes them from plastic systems is the preservation of all mechanical characteristics regardless of the ambient temperature. Another important advantage is their low price and ease of installation. This makes it possible, even for people with average incomes, to independently equip themselves with a high-quality and inexpensive drainage system.

The question especially often arises of how to secure a galvanized drain to a building. This can be done very simply with the help of special galvanized clamps and brackets, which are commercially available. One of the design features of galvanized systems is the presence of a protective polymer layer under the paint. When this polymer coating is deformed, corrosion will spread very quickly throughout the damaged area. In this regard, when operating and installing galvanized elements, the use of sharp objects and tools, as well as excessive bending and other operations dangerous to the polymer coating, is prohibited.

When choosing the color and texture of the drain, special attention should be paid to the color of the roof and facade of the building. The drainage system must fit harmoniously into the design of the structure and not spoil the facade with its appearance

Otherwise, the drain should be hidden on the back side of the house, which will be the best solution if it is impossible to choose suitable color. When using soft tiles, experts recommend installing a plastic drainage system. This is due to the presence of a layer of mineral chips with abrasive properties. With large flows of water, it is washed into the drain, scratching the surface of the gutter, funnel and pipes, and this, accordingly, can lead to damage to the polymer coating and the development of corrosion.

Installation of gutters

To install the gutters of the drainage system, perform the following steps sequentially: :

based on the results of measuring the total length of the cornice, the need for gutters is calculated;
the need for consumables is calculated to attach the drain to the roof;
make markings for installing fasteners for drainage elements;
install the brackets at pre-designated locations, taking into account the required slope of the gutters towards the funnels;
Attach the gutters to the roof using pre-installed brackets.

It is important to know that to carry out high-quality markings you must have the following tools: a tape measure at least 3 meters long, a skein of thread, a level, a pencil

What are drainage systems made from?

Nowadays, the most popular materials for the production of gutters are plastic and metal. Each of these materials has a number of undeniable advantages and several disadvantages.

In the near past, drainage systems were made exclusively from one material – galvanized steel. It was widely used not only for the production of pipes and drainage systems, but also for the manufacture of roofing. Despite this, recently galvanized steel in the construction market has increasingly begun to be replaced by plastic structures.

The use of plastic products when installing drainage systems has a number of advantages. For example, polymer can be shaped into almost any color. This makes it possible, with the help of drainpipes, not only to preserve the building structure from unwanted exposure to moisture, but also to realize any design ideas.

The designer himself can choose those plastic drainpipes that best suit the appearance of your home and will not stand out from the general background. Another important advantage of drainage systems made from polymers is that they are produced in ready-made kits that can be easily assembled without the help of specialists.

It is worth considering that any ready-made set is usually more expensive than all the elements separately. You can save on this if you do not purchase ready-made structures, but make a drainage system yourself, choosing gutters and plastic pipes from the widest range on the construction markets.

One way or another, you need to know that the obvious disadvantage of plastic gutters is their low level of resistance to regular frosts and defrosts. It is necessary to think through the design of a plastic drainage system in such a way that the water in it does not stagnate and, most importantly, does not freeze in winter. During winter thaws, you can often see snow melting, while at night in winter it is still quite cold.

This can damage the polymer pipes and lead to cracks in them. Of course, in addition to the plastic systems that have become widespread recently, drainpipes can be made of other materials. There are gutters made of copper or other alloys on the market. However, these designs are often quite expensive and can seriously affect your budget.

With all this, the majority of Russians still choose galvanized steel drainage systems, citing their reliability and simplicity. Now an alternative solution has appeared on the market - metal constructions coated with polymer. They combine all the advantages of two materials, excluding mutual disadvantages. But this could not but affect the cost of the product; these pipes are about 2-3 times more expensive than conventional ones.

Gutters made from plastic bottles

Drain from plastic bottles It’s not difficult to do it yourself. From an aesthetic point of view, such a system will be inferior to those made from purchased elements and even from plastic sewer pipes However, in terms of functionality, homemade gutters meet all the requirements.

According to experts, bottles with a capacity of 2 liters are best suited for these purposes, although 1.5 liter containers can also be used. The neck and bottom are cut so that an even cylinder of the maximum possible length is formed. After this, the cylinders are cut in half and overlapped. Fixation is ensured using pieces of wire or a stapler. For vertical pipelines, the bottles are cut so that the cylinders have a narrowing on one side. By inserting the cylinders into each other using the narrowed sides, a pipe is obtained. Funnels can be made from cut necks. Gutters made from plastic bottles are attached to building elements using wire rings.

Scheme for making gutters from bottles

Horizontal gutters can be installed on a wooden board pre-attached to the roof for added rigidity.

General rules for installing a drainage system

In order for the drainage system to work effectively, certain rules and factors must be observed.

Such factors and rules include:

taking into account annual precipitation indicators for a given area;
architectural and geometric features of the building, the roof on which the drain is mounted. So, if the distance between the extreme points of the roof (overhangs) does not exceed 10 m, then to organize a drain it is enough to install only 1 pipe. For larger distances, more than 1 will be required, which can be installed not only at the extreme points.
the material from which the roof and walls of the facade are made;
taking into account the characteristics of the material of the drainage elements.

In addition, it is necessary to design a drainage system or complete a drawing. This will allow you to correctly calculate the materials for installation, as well as identify the features of the drain at the initial stage.

Attaching the drainpipe to the wall

Drainage systems are needed to collect melt and rain water from the entire roof, thereby protecting the surface of the roof and walls of the building from premature destruction. When installing a drainage system, you will definitely encounter such a thing as attaching drainpipes to the wall. The reliability of your entire drainage structure will depend on the correct fastening.

Why are grabbers needed in a drainage system?

Grips for drainpipes are key elements of securing the drainage system. This element is mounted into the wall of the building using a pin, and pipes are installed there. It is intended to ensure reliability when installing vertical elements of the drainage system and the grip should not allow the pipes to bend to the sides under the influence of wind and other force loads. To prevent the pins from rusting, they must be made of galvanized steel or coated with an anti-corrosion compound. Drainpipes are installed at a distance from the wall of 30 to 35 centimeters. Convenient bolted connections ensure easy and quick installation of pipes. There are three types of grips:

Pin grip. Designed for fastening drainage pipes to brick and concrete buildings;

Grip-hardware. Designed for installation of pipes on wooden buildings;

The grip is universal. It can be attached to both wooden and brick houses. It is also used for buildings made of sandwich panels.

For installation, you will need to know the diameter of the drainpipe and the depth that is enough to attach the grip pin.

Why are clamps needed in a drainage system?

To attach drainage pipes to the walls of the house, clamps are used to secure drainpipes. This is another name for the same grip. Clamps are made of plastic, reinforced with metal or metal. Metal clamps are attached with one long piece of hardware, while plastic fixtures have two attachment points. When choosing clamps, you need to consider the following points:

Bracket installation

The correct answer to the question of how to properly fasten gutters completely depends on the type of system and the properties of the building itself. When constructing a drainage system, the following installation options are used: :

Fastening the brackets in a horizontal plane to the roofing front board is used when using plastic gutters.
In the absence of a frontal board, use the fastening of the drainage gutter to the rafter legs. If it is impossible to carry out this method, use special brackets that are adjustable in height of the studs.
Quite often they are installed with fastening to the bottom of the decking or roof sheathing.
The drainpipe is secured to the wall using clamps (plastic or galvanized).

The selection of mounting clamps is carried out taking into account the following requirements :

The clamp must be fastened to the wall using hardware with a working length of at least 50 mm;
the depth of fastening should be selected taking into account the thermal insulation layer of the wall;
There must be a gap between the wall and the pipe.

You should know that when tightening the clamps, you need to leave a gap of 1 millimeter for possible thermal expansion of the drainpipe due to changes in ambient temperature.

Drainpipe fasteners

The algorithm for installing drainpipes has already been described many times on various forums and construction websites. You can use the “from the top” method of installing the pipe, or you can use the “from the bottom” option. Let's start in more detail with the first method of installing a drain.

Initially, it is necessary to determine the location of fixation of the uppermost fastener of the vertical part of the drain pipe. It is imperative to take into account the size of the pipe elbow and the width of the roof eaves overhang. In a situation where the water intake funnel on the drain gutter is located quite far from the wall, it is recommended to make a bend on the vertical part of the drain pipe that can bring it closer to the wall. For this, ready-made parts are usually used - elbows with different angles and short sections of pipe.
The vertical part of the drain pipe must be secured no closer than 5 centimeters from outer surface walls of the house. In this case, the bracket is initially installed on the upper section. Already from it, using a plumb line, a vertical line is marked along which fasteners for the remaining sections of the drain will be located. The distance between the brackets on the vertical part should be approximately a meter.
After installing the brackets, install an outlet that will supply water from the gutter through the drainage funnel into the vertical part of the pipe.

At the end, you can begin installing this section of the drain. After fastening the vertical part at the bottom of the system, install the water drainage elbow

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the junction of the pipe and the outlet must be attached to the wall using a separate bracket. In some cases, the answer is not installed at the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe directs water directly to the storm drain

Now let’s consider the option of installing a drainage system using the “bottom-up” principle.

Initially, you need to drill holes in the wall to attach the brackets.
Markers (parts of the pipe with a cut corner) are attached to the lower clamps.
Once the previous steps have been completed, you can begin installing the remaining links. Each part is attached with a separate clamp. If some section of the pipe is quite long, then special clamps should be installed for it. According to the rules, the interval between clamps should be no more than 180 centimeters.

Manufacturers usually include with the drainage system kits all the parts that may be needed when performing the work. The design is always accompanied by a manual, after reading which you will be able to understand how to correctly install this particular type of drain. Models from different manufacturers may be mounted differently.

You may find it useful:

Choosing the location of drains and the necessary tools for installing a drainage system

The choice of location for water drainage is influenced by the length of the roof overhang. If the roof overhang is up to 10 meters long, one drain must be installed; if the roof length exceeds 10 meters, two drains are used.

The location and installation of drains depends on the type of roof and for correct installation You can use the diagram below with your own hands.

To install a gutter with your own hands you will need the following tool :

spirit level (hydraulic level);
tool for bending hooks;
rope, tape measure, pencil;
hacksaw for metal;
rivet pliers;
drill with battery or screwdriver;
metal and rubber hammer;
mites;
metal scissors.

Installation instructions for the drainage system

Installation of the drainage system begins with the installation of hooks. There are mainly three types: short, adjustable and long. They can be attached to the bottom sheathing board, to the rafters, or on top of the rafters. For each of the cases, they apply different kinds hooks
Calculate the angle of inclination of the hooks. The recommended slope should be 2-3 mm/m. The hooks are placed side by side, numbered and the fold line is marked. Next, using a tool for bending the hooks, they are bent according to the markings.
The first gutter hook is installed in such a way that the distance between the imaginary extension of the roof and the outer side of the gutter is 20 - 25 mm.
Installation of hooks is done at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 meters with an inclination angle of 2-3 mm/m relative to the horizon. Installation begins from the edge of the cornice from which the slope relative to the horizon will occur. The first and last hooks should be located at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the edge of the roof edge.
If the hooks are installed not on the front board, but on the rafters or on the last beam of the sheathing, then grooves are made to level the surfaces of the hooks with the surface of the rafters or sheathing.
If it is necessary to make a hole in the gutter for a funnel, then mark the desired location with a pencil and use a hacksaw to cut out the hole. Using pliers, the funnel is given the required shape and the burrs are removed. The metal cut area is treated with special paint to prevent corrosion.
The funnel is first attached to the outer bend of the gutter, and the fixing terminals are clamped on the inside. Next, the plug is installed on the end of the gutter using a rubber hammer or manual pressing. The assembled structure is installed on the hooks by pressing at each hook.
If possible, elements such as the funnel, caps and corners should be installed before the final installation of the gutter on the roof!
The gutters are connected using connecting locks. To do this, leave a gap of 2-3 mm between the ends of the parts being connected. Sealant is applied to the rubber gasket in the form of three lines: one is applied in the center, the rest on the sides. The back of the lock is attached to the inside of the gutters. Next, the lock is pressed towards the outside to ensure a tight fit of the gasket to the gutters. Snap the lock and secure it by bending the clamping terminals. Remaining sealant must be removed.
When installing internal or external corner elements, between the ends to be connected, it is also necessary to make a gap of 2-3 mm and connect using clamping locks, as indicated in the instructions above.
Installation of gutters takes place in previously designated locations. To attach pipes to walls, clamps are used, which are secured with dowels. The distance between the clamps should not exceed two meters. The pipe must be at least 40 mm from the wall. Pipe cutting must be done using a hacksaw.
If it is necessary to connect two elbows, then measure the distance between the ends of the pipes. To the resulting value (in this case “a”) 100 mm is added for the connecting pipe to enter the ends of the elbows (50 mm for each elbow).
The finishing drain elbow is fixed to the pipe using rivets. The distance from the edge of the drain pipe to the ground should not exceed 300 mm. This completes the installation of gutters.

We bring to your attention a video that will help you understand all the nuances of installation.

This instruction describes the main stages of installing a drain with your own hands. In each specific case, it is necessary to ask the supplier for instructions, since each manufacturer’s installation of gutters is slightly different.

Attaching gutters to walls and roof

When constructing a roof, special attention should be paid to water drainage, for which purpose a drainage system is installed. Its main purpose is to protect the roof, facade and foundation from excessive water ingress.

The drainage system is secured using clamps that are attached to the wall with dowels. In most cases, the pitched roof of a building is equipped with a drain. It consists of the following components:

gutters;
drainpipes;
funnels;
additional accessories.

Gutters are classified according to their shape and material of manufacture. According to the shape of the gutter, they distinguish :

According to the material of manufacture :

In addition, they can have a very wide variety of colors, which allows you to choose the most harmonious option in each individual case.

During calculations, the shape of the gutter must be taken into account, since it determines the usable area and, accordingly, the throughput. In addition, the material from which it will be made, plastic elements when used in conditions of low temperatures very fragile and unreliable

For this reason, the choice of these parameters should be approached extremely wisely.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, appearance- you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet light, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the drain yourself, the most The best decision- have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, at a distance of about 20 cm from the edge of the gutter, a hole is cut out with a hand hacksaw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They come in different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

It is used in industrial, residential and public buildings for organized drainage of water from roofs.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 150 mm will allow rainwater to be drained from 117 square meters stingray The number of pipes on building facades will be significantly reduced. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.7 m, pipe holders - no further than 2 m from each other.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 100 mm will allow rainwater to be drained from 52 square meters of slope. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.9 m from each other (calculated distance - 0.75 m), pipe holders - no further than 3 m from each other (for example, 3 holders are required for a pipe 5 m long, for a pipe 3 m long two are enough.

If there is a threat of freezing of the drainage system, it is recommended to use heating systems for gutters and pipes.

With a catchment area of less than 30 sq.m per drainpipe, gutters can be installed with a zero slope; with a larger catchment area, the slope of the gutters can be up to 5%.

1 - Gutter plug
2 - Gutter holder
3 - Gutter
4 - Gutter connection element
5 - Pipe
6 - Angular elbow
7 - Pipe
8 - Pipe holder
9 - Drain elbow

Step 1 - Installing Gutter Holders

Gutter installation begins with the installation of gutter holders. Divide the total length of the gutter into equal sections, as noted earlier (but not more than 900 mm).

step 2 - Marking for the gutter holders of the drainage system

According to the result obtained, mark the installation locations of the gutter holders on the bottom sheathing.

step 3 - bending the gutter holders

Number the holders from the top mark to the drain funnel. Having determined for yourself the desired slope (up to 5%), mark the bend location on each holder. In this case, the bending point of the holder should be lower design position by 2.0 - 2.5 cm relative to the roof slope line.

Step 4 - Attaching the gutter holders

Aligning the bend with the edge of the sheathing, attach the gutter holders with 4.8x22 self-drilling galvanized flat head screws, 3 each. for fastening. When using 50x50 beams as sheathing, a double beam must be installed to securely fasten the holders.

Step 5 - Creating a Gutter Slope

To create a slope, bend the first and last holder and pull the cord between them. Bend the remaining holders so that they touch the cord.

step 6 - Installation of the pipe

In the gutter, at a distance of 150 mm from the bottom edge, cut a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole (Fig. 31). Place the front edge of the pipe under the outer bend of the gutter. Bend the flange of the pipe onto the rear edge of the gutter and secure with two 4.2x16 self-tapping screws.

Step 7 - Installing Gutter Covers

Install gutter plugs at the ends

Step 8 - Installing the Gutter

Insert the gutter into the holders, placing the rear edge of the gutter into the protrusion of the holder

Step 9 - Connecting the gutters

Install the gutter connecting element at the junction of the gutters.

step 10 - Installation of the corner elbow

Use a corner elbow to create a transition to the wall of the building. The length of the connecting pipe is determined locally.

step 11 - Pipe installation

The drain is secured to the wall using pipe holders. The pipe is measured, if necessary extended at the installation site of the pipe holder, and secured with a lock.

step 12 - Installation of the drain elbow

The drain elbow completes the drainpipe and serves to drain water from the foundation of the building; should be located at a distance of 300 mm from the blind area of the building.

The drainage system is an important part of the architecture, and it must be thought through in the project. Yes, and according to modern building regulations and rules, it is advisable to install gutters before installing the final roofing covering. But in practice this does not always work out. Also in ideal, first of all, before purchasing a gutter system, you must decide how exactly you will attach the gutters: along the eaves, to the front board or to the first row of sheathing. But, unfortunately, some modern manufacturers offer brackets that are designed for only one type of fastening - to the front board.

Then what to do in this situation: the roof is already covered and the roof covering is laid, if we're talking about about metal sheets that are “tightly” fixed or is there no frontal plate at all? Now we will tell you a couple of secrets!

When is gutter installation needed only for finishing work?

The drain is most often fixed exclusively to the front board if the air flow for ventilation of the internal insulation is carried out through special holes in the overhang lining - they are also called perforated soffits. This is the simplest and cheapest method of ventilation, although not the most professional, because this is not enough for good air flow. Therefore, experienced roofers believe that it is more effective to allow air flow through the gap that forms under the sheathing.

In this case, you will need to place the front board quite low, and fix the brackets for the gutters only on the sheathing. True, such a system has disadvantages: under the weight of snow and ice, the board can simply break. Based on this, decide which method is right for you.

Also, fastening exclusively to the front board is necessary if the drainage system is installed much later after the construction of the house. For example, you bought an unfinished building (a fairly common situation). And, if you do not touch the road and it is not clear on what specific principles the roofing material was laid, then you will only be able to attach the brackets to the front board. In addition, when replacing the drainage system, it will also not be possible to do it any differently.

And the third point: if you used an anti-condensation waterproofing film, according to the rules it must be installed on the eaves overhang, and this is also only possible when the drain is attached directly to the front board, but not to the sheathing:

7 popular installation methods

To secure gutters and downpipes you will need special hooks. According to building rules, you can install them in three main ways: in the general boardwalk, if we are talking about a soft roof, in the rafters and in the wind board eaves overhang:

One of the most popular examples:

Method No. 1. Attaching to the rafter system: lifting the covering

Sometimes home craftsmen even count on the fact that after finishing the roof construction they will still be able to lift one or two sheets of roofing and attach hooks to the sheathing. But in fact, you won’t be able to tear off sheets of any coating so easily, because in this case you will have to get rid of one or two rows of screws or nails. And in this place it is no longer possible to do without patches, which will negate the entire aesthetic effect.

But some cunning method is still used in this regard, and its essence is to put special boards under the covering, which allow it not to crush the roofing material and unscrew the fastening with pliers. And it works!

Something similar is often done with slate. There, wooden blocks that were pre-planed according to the profile of the wave are inserted directly into the slate waves. Here, the gutter fastening is mounted directly through the slate itself - both the block and the hook at the same time.

Method number 2. Attachment to the front board: creating a reliable support

Attaching hooks to the front board is the easiest way if the roof is already ready. Moreover, the frontal board itself is not at all difficult to decorate so that it looks like a separate element of the roof’s exterior:

For metal roofing, hooks need to be short, made of the same material, and it is also better to attach them to metal:

But a lightweight plastic drain can easily withstand a wooden front board:

Method number 3. Attaching to “crutches”: let’s use a trick

If there is no frontal board on the roof at all, then special metal or wooden “crutches” are installed in the wall, and the gutter is attached directly to them using studs or beams:

Method number 4. Brackets in supports

Or the hooks have to be screwed into what is there, especially when it comes to small outbuildings:

Method No. 5. Invisible brackets: grab the gutter from above

In addition, brackets are sold today that are invisible even after installation, because they hold the gutters from above and not from below. A brilliant solution, isn't it?

Such brackets must be fastened in increments of 40 and 70 cm, otherwise, at a greater distance, the gutters can deform under the weight of ice or snow:

Those brackets that are attached to the sheathing or from above to the rafter leg must first be bent and shaped in order to then ideally fit them to the angle of inclination of the slope.

Method number 6. Adjustable brackets: for challenging conditions

You may be interested to know that adjustable brackets are now available for purchase. It is enough to tighten the screws to adjust them and adjust them depending on the angle of inclination of the slope. This way you won't have to check the bend radius of each hook individually again.

Look how these brackets are designed! These are two main parts that can be moved relative to each other depending on the required mounting height:

Method No. 7. We attach directly to the roof covering

In the most difficult cases, sometimes you have to purchase brackets that are more expensive, but which allow you to install a drain even on a roof where a fragile corrugated covering has already been laid:

Of course, this method is only suitable for regions where it rains infrequently and not in large quantities.

So, to summarize: how reliable the fastening will be depends on whether you installed the gutters correctly. After all, the drain does not have the task of solving the snow problem - this should be done by snow retainers and special cable heating.

Technical details of installation technology

Now let’s take a brief look at the technology of fixing the drainage system to the finished roof.

How to calculate the required number of drainage elements?

B – horizontal distance from the overhang to the ridge;
H is the height, and C is the length of the roof (all dimensions in meters).

Here's how to properly install a drainage system on a frontal board:

Step 1. On the board itself, which was previously installed, mark with a laser horizontal line at the highest point of the gutter.
Step 2. Then place a real line, taking into account the slope, which should be from 3 to 5 millimeters for each linear meter of the gutter.
Step 3. Now you need to number all the hooks, and the marking itself should be done taking into account the slope of the gutter. Next, using a hook bender, slightly change the radius of the hooks.
Step 4. Install the two outer hooks, and between them, along the very bottom of the gutter, you need to stretch the rope. Install the remaining fastener.
Step 5. Determine the location of the funnel at the end of the gutter according to their size.
Step 6. Next, attach the gutter funnel to the board and trace along the outline with a pencil. Leave a 45 mm edge from the edge of the outline to the center and cut out a hole with a regular hacksaw? or special scissors for metal.
Step 7. Now bend the resulting frames outward. Insert the gutters into each other. It is important that the front of the gutter is put on correctly - so that its spout is inside the curl.

The entire assembly is quite simple, akin to a children's construction set.

Gutters and funnels: place them at the correct distance

Now let's move on to installing the gutter:

Step 1. First of all, we install the funnel and the adjacent gutters.
Step 2. We fasten the edges of the gutter with self-tapping screws to the front board.
Step 3. We fix the funnel and the gutters themselves until their profiles completely match.
Step 4. Check the angle of inclination and location of the brackets.
Step 5. We install the profile of the gutters on them and dock them together. We close the free ends with a plug.
Step 6. We make a branch from the funnel and pipes in the wall.
Step 7. Mount the bracket for the pipe.
Step 8. Mark the path for installing the pipe and attach the vertical drainage elements.

Modern metal gutters are connected to each other using seals and clamps. Plastic gutters are connected in three main ways: with latches with a clamp, with rubber seals and by cold welding. The main thing in all this is to take into account linear expansion compensation.

Also think about an element such as a special grille for the drainage system. It is needed in order to clean the flowing water from plant debris, which is often washed off the roof - these are pine leaves and branches. After all, stagnant water in winter can turn into ice literally overnight and break the drain from the inside.

Fastening vertical drains

First, let's take a closer look at how and on which wall to properly attach gutters. So:

In the case of a three-layer wall, the holders need to be attached only to the front layer. If its thickness is about 9 cm, then the depth of the anchor should be 6 cm, and if the thickness is 12 cm, then the depth of the anchor should be 8-9 cm.
If we are talking about a two-layer wall, then after it is finished, a hole 6-9 centimeters deep should be drilled in it. It is important that the dowel goes through the second layer of thermal insulation. And only after that you can tighten the fastening.
With a single-layer wall, you need to do this: secure the holder in the wall with screws or a special expansion dowel, but to a depth of at least 6 centimeters.
But if you attach gutters to a wooden frame wall, attach the holder with self-tapping screws to the wooden facade. You can fix all this with a long sharp rod.

It would be more competent, of course, to install the vertical components of the drain during the process of laying the walls, but even after their completion such work is quite possible. It is important to know only a few rules:

Pipes should always be installed from the bottom up;
drill small holes;
between drain pipe and the distance must be maintained by the wall;
attach a special drain elbow with a cut corner at the bottom so that water does not fall directly under the foundation.
Or replace the elbow with a regular pipe link and lead it to the storm drain.
The drainage system is attached to wooden walls using a rod or a special plate with screws. Such a long and pointed rod simply needs to be driven in.
But if the wall is too thin in the right places, then you will need a long rod, which will be additionally secured with a plate with screws.

A small illustration will help you understand this:

And the vertical mounting technology itself is quite simple:

Step 1. Connect the pipes with couplings.
Step 2. When you insert the down tube, leave a gap.
Step 3. Mount a bracket with a trunk under the coupling.
Step 4. Install the tees in the same way.
Step 5: Glue the bottom elbow to the pipe.

Check out this step-by-step illustration. In photo No. 11 the decorative nozzle is very clearly visible:

Another important point: the pipe that is located closest to the corner of the eaves should be at a distance of 15 centimeters from the corner of the house. You can place it in the middle of the eaves overhang, or right around the corner, already on the end wall.

Thus, you can easily remove the drainpipe from the facade, and your drainage system, which had to be installed on a finished roof, will look invisible and harmonious!