Plastic pipes for draining water. Sewage drain pipe: features and specific application

One of the most important communications related to water supply is the sewerage system, so during its construction it is necessary to pay attention to the quality of all components, including drain pipes.

The types and features of installation of drain pipes will be discussed directly in this article.

Types and characteristics of drain pipes

There are also many various types drain pipes, which are distinguished depending on their purpose, as well as the material of manufacture. Depending on their purpose, drain pipes can be used for both internal and external drainage sewer systems.

Important qualities that all external drainage systems without exception must have:

• strength;
• frost resistance;
• resistance to deformation and physical impacts;
• resistance to aggressive groundwater.

Internal drainage systems must be well soundproofed and have an aesthetic appearance.

They are also distinguished by the type of material.

Today the following types of pipes are available on the market:

• copper;
• cast iron;
• steel;
• concrete, reinforced concrete;
• asbestos;
• – polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene.

Each of these materials has certain disadvantages and advantages - you should choose the required type of pipe depending on the specific situation, taking into account the characteristics that will be important during use.

Drain pipes made of polymer materials are becoming increasingly popular both among construction organizations and individuals.

Perhaps the most important characteristic for drain pipes is their throughput. But it should be remembered that metal pipes this capacity decreases significantly over time due to the formation of deposits on the internal surfaces of the pipes.

The most severe are:

• metal pipes;
• concrete pipes;
• ceramic pipes.

Increased rigidity of the material is not always a plus, since in some cases it can provoke damage to pipes and their subsequent destruction, for example, when laying in unstable soils or in places where the level of mechanical stress and vibration is increased (for example, in large cities under highways). or railways).

Polypropylene or other polymer material is perfect here.

How to replace drain pipes

Replacing a drain pipe yourself is a fairly messy and time-consuming process. But if desired, this procedure is quite feasible with your own hands.

To do this you will need the following tools:

• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• chisel;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• adjustable wrenches;
• silicone sealant.

After calculating the required materials, it is necessary to calculate the number of water intake points and draw up a preliminary plan for the future sewerage system. In addition, determine the required diameter and length of the pipes, and also count the required number of cuffs.

Dismantling of old sewerage

To properly dismantle an obsolete sewer pipeline, you first need to free up the workspace, that is, remove the washing machine from the bathroom and dismantle the sink and bidet.

First of all, you will need to turn off the water and use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply hose from the toilet flush tank. Next, the toilet is removed, and the process of dismantling the pipes begins.

It is necessary to remove old sewerage, starting with those pipes that are located away from the riser. In extreme cases, you can even break them with a hammer.

Pipes located near the riser should be removed more carefully. To do this, the old drain pipe must be cut off using a grinder at a distance of 10-15 cm from the socket.

Next, you need to try to very carefully swing the remaining end of the pipe, and then remove it from the socket of the tee embedded in the riser. It should be taken into account that if the tee socket is damaged, various adverse consequences can occur.

If you still can’t pull the pipe out, it’s better to do this: use a grinder to make neat cuts on the pipe, then remove the pipe using a hammer and chisel. Finally, the bell must be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining solution and dirt.

How to install new pipes

A rubber cuff is inserted into the socket of the tee, after which the connection must be thoroughly coated with sealant. Typically, the number one water intake point is considered to be the toilet. Before one drain pipe is inserted into another, it is recommended to coat the joints with sealant.

The drain pipes must be fastened next to each joint and care should be taken to ensure that no fractures occur at the joints.

Pipes are installed in a similar way at the remaining water intake points. The slope towards the riser when installing drain pipes should be about five degrees. A cuff of the required diameter is inserted under each corrugation. It should be noted that cutting pipes to drain water is strictly not recommended.

A well-designed new household sewerage system made of plastic pipes will certainly delight its owners for decades. Naturally, creating it will require maximum effort, but it will be worth it.

The only thing that can be recommended in this case is that immediately before laying new drain pipes, check and, if necessary, reseal (waterproof) the floor in rooms with pipelines being repaired. This will protect you and your neighbors from trouble in case of emergency situations.

Plastic pipes for sewer drainage, which are used at the household level, in most cases, have a diameter of 32 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm, despite the fact that the two most popular types are 50 mm, 100 mm. In addition, for installation of the system wiring, fragments of various lengths are produced, and they can be 25 cm, 35 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 100 cm, 150 cm and 200 cm (fragmentation of a 150 mm pipe starts from 50 cm, smaller ones in in most cases they are not created).

We will talk about such elements in more detail below, and watch a demonstration of a thematic video in this article.

Sewage pipeline equipment

Note. The entire system installed for sewerage is mostly made up of pipes of various diameters. But they all must somehow fit together, based on this, the industry for this purpose creates homogeneous fittings (PVC), and rubber cuffs (reductions) and sealing rings.

Pipes

The most basic parameter, whether it is a drain pipe from the roof or a sewer riser, or a horizontal distribution of a smaller diameter, can be called the outer diameter - the throughput property does not depend on it, but it is what they pay attention to during installation. Below we bring to your attention a table of all standard sizes of PVC sewerage.

Note. This table shows all the parameters of pipes, starting from a cross-section of 50 mm and above, despite the fact that in the residential sector parameters of 50 mm, 110 mm and 150 mm are used. The actual diameter of 110 mm when purchased in a store is in most cases considered as 100 mm - both the pipe and the price do not change.

Fittings and reductions

• To make any joint on the pipeline, such as insertion, rotation, decoupling of a node, or transition to another diameter and to another plane, specialized adapters of various configurations are used. For example, a drain pipe for a toilet may be made as a plastic corner or a corrugated sleeve, but all this must somehow be connected to the riser, and this is where a tee is needed (a quad - for draining to other bathrooms), which is cut into the riser.

• Approximately the same method is used to connect a drain pipe for a bathroom or sink - the corrugated siphon sleeve is connected to the socket of a corner sewer fitting or tee, where a rubber ring or cuff is used for sealing. In addition, there are complex junctions, especially in the basements of private houses, at a time when there are virtually no pipes in the apartment - for each bathroom the outlet is made through the floor, based on this, below, under the ceiling of the basement, it is necessary to connect a large number of pipes, with different slopes and different diameters.

• Sometimes a rubber cuff is simply irreplaceable, for example, a drain connection washing machine to the sewer pipe is carried out through a 32 mm pipe, which must be connected to a 50 mm socket. But such PVC fittings are very rare, so a rubber reduction of 50×32 mm is driven into the socket glass and the problem is solved without that. Exactly the same situation appears when the drain pipe for the sink is connected - a 50x40 mm reduction under the corrugated siphon sleeve is used.
• Rubber sealing rings are supplied by the manufacturer as a set with a plastic pipe, so you do not need to buy them separately. When joining, you must be careful so that there is no distortion, and if after the test drain you see a leak at any of the joints, then do not rush to seal it with silicone or sealant. In these circumstances, the instructions recommend dismantling such a connection, fixing the ring and reassembling it - the leak will fall through the ground.

Needed advice. When assembling a sewer system with your own hands, important difficulties arise from time to time - due to the fact that the rubber sealing ring is too hard. To eliminate this problem, it is possible to coat the ring or the end of the pipe (or both) with liquid household detergent. This will greatly facilitate the connection workflow.

Necessary gadgets

If there is a blockage under the sink, few people will have a question about how to clean the drain pipe in the kitchen, everything is simple - remove the siphon sleeve from the fitting and insert the plumbing cable through the socket towards the riser. But what to do if such an assembly is not made in a straight line, but with turns (from time to time by 90?) or if the cable is not long enough?

In such cases, at turns and on long sections (more than 4-5 meters), a plastic revision is cut in, which can be done both indoors and outdoors, underground, only in the latter case is a viewing well made of cement rings or brickwork installed above it.

The revision is very similar in appearance and method of installation on a tee, only in our case the side outlet is made with a thread so that it can be well closed with a lid, which is clearly visible in the top photo. To remove the blockage, unscrew the cap and insert a plumbing cable into the pipe in the desired direction.

To avoid overflows, a sewer check valve is used, which in most cases is installed in the private sector or on the first floors of multi-story buildings. The essence of the gadget’s work is as follows - when the water level in the sewer rises higher than the level of the pipes in the apartment (house), all this liquid will begin to pour out through the toilet, bathtub, and from time to time the sink and sink (law of communicating vessels). But if you install a check valve in front of the living room, then this will not happen.

Such devices can be vertical and horizontal, with a lock in the form of a membrane with a rubber gasket (made of plastic), or horizontal ball, with flange connections (made of cast iron or steel). The last option is in most cases used for industrial facilities.

Conclusion

Plastic drain pipes for roofs, premises or underground installations are no different from each other and are made from the same material - PVC. The main difference between them is in the sizes and installation methods.

Making a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands + photo

Today, in construction stores there are many drainage systems that are made of metal and plastic, and you can buy any set - from a famous manufacturer, or from a very young company. Such systems work well, and in terms of design and operational characteristics they meet all the requirements. But factory systems have one big drawback - high cost. For 10 meters of even the cheapest drain you will have to pay 11,000 hard-earned money. Installation of a drainage system for a medium-sized cottage will cost at least 55,000 rubles. Not everyone can afford such sums, and it’s a pity to pay that kind of money just for this element. There is a way out - to make a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands.

The cost of such a product will be 5-6 times lower than a factory one, but the price will largely depend on the chosen material. In addition, if you have little experience, there is a chance that you will only ruin the purchased pipes and additional elements.

To make a drain with your own hands, you can use the following types of materials:

Let's take a closer look at the last option:

• Sewage pipes are made from the cheapest plastic, and often not primary, but secondary. They are also not affected by ultraviolet radiation, they do not thaw or freeze, and they do not contain mineral dyes.
• Well-known manufacturers of drainage systems set other markups on top of some to promote the brand, but this in no way applies to sewer pipes.
• Beautiful shapes and decent appearance will complicate the production of drains, and you will need special machines, as well as multi-component molds, and a set of fixtures can contain dozens of units.
• High quality is possible due to the fact that the process is controlled at every stage of material production.

Making a roof drain from sewer pipes is the only acceptable option in all respects, so we’ll talk about it in this article.

What function should the drain perform?

Regardless of what material the drain is made of, it must protect the foundation and base of the house from melt and rain water. If the ground near the house becomes waterlogged, this can cause premature deterioration of masonry building materials or subsidence of the foundation of the house. If the load-bearing performance of the foundation decreases, this will become a huge problem, and it can only be replaced when cracks appear on the facade wall of the house. Restoring the strength of the foundation is extremely expensive and difficult, and only professionals can perform such work. But believe me, even they cannot give a 100% guarantee that the measures taken will be beneficial. Other functions of drainage (collecting water in a container, decorating the facade of a building) are secondary and will not affect the safety and duration of operation of the building.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a drain from sewer pipes

Before you start work, you should understand some technical issues in order to avoid annoying mistakes and improve the performance characteristics of the structure.

Components of a drain

This analysis was additionally created in order to know about the purpose and operating conditions of each water drainage element in order to avoid mistakes when self-production designs.

• Step No. 1 – preparation of tools and materials. Pipes with a diameter of 11 cm are good for drainage, but most factory systems are made with a diameter of 10 cm. This is a universal size that is used for most homes. If you have very large slopes in area, then for a straight section of the gutter it is worth installing not one funnel to drain water, but several at once, at a distance of 6 to 8 meters from each other. The standard length of sewer pipes is 2.5 meters and is made of polypropylene.

Note, that you should understand the difference between pipes for external and internal sewerage.

Some inexperienced craftsmen believe that pipes for external sewerage will not deteriorate from ultraviolet rays and low temperatures, since they are installed outside the house and connected to an external main. Indeed, such pipes are intended for external sewage, only they are usually installed in trenches and not in open space. And yes, there are no UV rays in the trenches, as well low temperatures, but there are large mechanical loads. So that the pipes could withstand them, the walls were made thicker, and the price became higher. There are no additives to prevent the sun's rays and negative temperatures from causing harm. So, for drainage it is better to buy pipes that are intended for internal sewerage, since they are several times cheaper.

You will need to calculate the footage of the pipes, and you should know the length and height of the building. You can make two gutters from one pipe at once. Be sure to find out how many turns you will have, and at what angles they should be, the number of bends with different angles of rotation, plugs and tees. So, 1 meter of pipe costs about 200 rubles, and ten meters will cost approximately 2000 rubles. This is much cheaper than buying a factory drain system with the same length.

To work, you will need a cylindrical grinder and several thin metal discs of the selected diameter. The grinder should be minimal. To cut plastic, you don’t need a high-power tool, and working with a light grinder in one hand is much easier. So, prepare in advance hardware, a tape measure, rulers, a metal bar, measuring and plumbing tools. It is advisable that you draw a sketch in advance, think through everything again and calculate.

Helpful advice! First, try making a drainage system for not the most important buildings - a bathhouse, a garage, a workshop, etc. This way you will gain experience and understand how the manufactured system will look on site.

Additional important nuance– a rubber ring must be installed at the end of the pipes, which will seal the plug. Screw in the screws so that they do not damage the rubber ring, but press the pipe socket. You should retreat approximately 4 cm from the end, but you will need to measure the specific distance yourself, since it may vary slightly due to differences in pipes from different manufacturers.

• Step #4 – marking. Yes, this is for pipes so that you can cut them into two even halves. Everything should be marked with a felt-tip pen, since a pencil simply does not draw on plastic. You will need to apply an even line across the entire pipe.
• Step #5 – sawing. It was already said above that it will be tedious to hold the grinder with one hand and fix the pipe with the other. As the sawing progresses, the pipe will move towards the tool. If the work is so difficult, you will have to do everything with an assistant who will hold the pipe, and the master will work with an angle grinder with both hands. By the way, this is exactly how it is recommended to work in TB.
• Step #6 – removing burrs. The disc does not cut, but melts the plastic, and therefore large burrs remain on it, which can be easily removed. Some people use disk grinding for this, but we do not recommend this method, since the disk will remove old burrs and leave new ones, and the plastic will melt due to high speeds. For this reason, the work is carried out without tools, and they simply cut everything off with a mounting knife or break it off manually, but then you will have to make an effort. The third option is to use an abrasive disc and work manually with it. If the cut is wavy, then it is advisable to straighten it immediately. Don't be upset, another pipe will be of much better quality and easier to cut, and a gutter that is a little damaged can be installed with reverse side at home, where he will not be seen.

Continue cutting the remaining gutter pipes using the same principle. The two gutters should be connected using self-tapping screws, and in places where they overlap, be sure to install rubber gaskets in special technological grooves.

The connection parts of drainage gutters from sewer pipes are the most dangerous, since it is in this place that leaks most often occur. The problem is that the gutter is long, and minor forces on one side increase 10 times or more through the mounting brackets, so they act like a lever. The second end can be moved slightly. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of leaks, we recommend using a sealant. You can buy the cheapest one, since you won’t need resistance to UV rays, the material will not be exposed to the open air, and half of the pipe will lie on top and protect it. But be sure to pay attention to the indicator of ductility and adhesion.

Making a funnel

This element is one of the most complex in the system, and for its manufacture you will need to prepare:

• Turn.
• A piece of pipe of the required length.
• End cap.
• Cross for connection.

So, first you need to assemble all the elements into a single structure, and also re-check the length of the pipe section. Next, the individual parts can be fastened using self-tapping screws. Remember to always lubricate the joint surfaces with sealant, since rubber seals are not very reliable. Next, find the middle of the structure, make lines on both sides, and then cut the structure along them with a grinder. Don't forget to remove any burrs. Work carefully and slowly. Make sure that individual parts do not move when cutting.

Advice: It’s better not to cut the end caps in the gutters into halves, but to leave them whole, so they will be held more firmly. To do this, you do not need to cut the pipe socket along the axis, but cut the half along the circumference. Appearance such a gutter will differ from the standard one.

The water will be drained into a storm drain, which is buried in the ground, and rainwater will be useful for watering plants in the summer cottage, especially if you do not have a centralized water supply. Almost all elements of the water drainage system are prepared, and you can begin to manufacture metal brackets.

Manufacturing of brackets

Prepare a strip of metal, the thickness of which will be 0.2 cm and width 2 cm. Measure the length of the brackets, which should be equal to the length of the area fixed to rafter system and half the circumference of the gutter. To avoid mistakes, we recommend using soft wire. You need to make a template from it and adjust it several times to the optimal position. When everything is in order, align the wire and measure the length. Experts recommend making a margin of 3 cm. We make marks on a long strip and cut blanks for the brackets, and then make holes.

Drain installation

If the slope is short, and you have help, then the brackets can be attached to the gutter while still on the ground, and the already assembled structure can be installed on the roof. You will need to work extremely carefully; during installation there is a possibility of damage to the assembled gutter. Do not forget that for the water to drain, you will need a slope of about 3 cm for every 10 linear meters. More is not necessary, since otherwise the gutter will be too far from the roof and water will not get into it.

Assemble the drainage pipes, attach them, and place the other end into a container to collect water. Vertical pipes can be attached to the wall using clamps, but there is no need to overtighten them. It is desirable that they be in a place where they will rest against the protrusions of the bells. If there are buildings near the houses, then tape plastic pipes to them as well.

Helpful advice: In order to 100% eliminate the possibility of depressurization of a vertical pipe joint, self-tapping screws should be screwed into the joint. They will prevent the pipes from falling out under their own weight.

Making a hook bender

The method described above is considered extremely risky for fixing the gutter, and it is advisable to use the traditional one - first fix the hooks, and then install the gutters on them. But sometimes it can be extremely difficult to bend homemade metal strips correctly, and in order to simplify the process, use such a simple device as a “hook bender”. To do this, you will need to buy two pieces of square pipe, the length of which will be 0.3-0.4 meters. Select the cross-section of the pipes so that they extend into each other by about 0.8 cm. For example, the width of one pipe is 3 cm, and the second is 2.5 cm. You need to carefully clean the ends of the pipes, remove all burrs and level the plane. A bracket should be inserted into the gap between the pipes to control the size of the gaps. Insert the bracket into the slot.

Helpful advice: the width of the gap should be slightly larger than the thickness of the metal strip, and this will make it easier for you to use the device. Not all planks made of metal are perfectly straight; there are usually small bends. The increased gap will make it possible to bend them in the fixture without any problems. To obtain the required dimensions between the metal strip and the fixture, you will need to insert a piece of sheet iron with a thickness of about 0.1 cm over the strip. After you have secured everything by welding, you can take it out.

When you have secured everything at the bottom using electric welding, carry out a similar operation at the other end. Next, take out the bracket and weld the pipes as firmly as possible, and then clean off the scale. Now the device is ready for use, and working with it will be extremely easy. The blanks should be inserted according to the mark into the hook bender, while holding the fixture with one hand, and bending the part with the other at the required angle and at a given distance.

The device will make it possible to make not only an even bend, but also at a different slope. To do this, the workpiece does not need to be pressed against the side wall, but only slightly turned to one side. Depending on the rotation angle, the bend angle will change. Over time you will gain experience, all hooks will be bent to exact dimensions, taking into account roofing features and drainage systems.

Conclusion

It will take one, maximum two days to create a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands, and the financial savings will be very large. The only drawback of the system is that sewer pipes are very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, and if you have the opportunity, we recommend taking measures to protect the plastic from sunlight, since otherwise the system will not be able to “live” for more than 5 years.

Throughout the Russian climate, frequent precipitation is far from uncommon. And therefore, it is customary to install a drain in homes that controls and removes these precipitation away from the roof itself. If a house stands for a long time without a drainage system, its base, facade and walls are destroyed. There are also longer-term consequences: a flooded basement, washed-out land around the house and other problems. That's why there should always be a drain!

But if you have just purchased a house or cottage and have a limited budget, you can temporarily make a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands: it is not difficult, and in practice such a system will be reliable. But for such small buildings as a gazebo, a children's house in the garden or a canopy over a car, a homemade drain is quite suitable as the main one. And we will teach you how to do everything right!

Do you like the idea, but are you worried about how well the sewer pipes will be able to withstand the outside atmosphere? After all, they are designed to drain water from the house, mostly underground, and the manufacturer is unlikely to care that such plastic material tolerates ultraviolet rays well. But, in fact, many gardeners notice that cuttings of gray and brown pipes feel great in the open sun for quite a few years.

Moreover, due to the relative cheapness of sewer pipes, you can use them to construct drains of the most complex shapes and for a variety of purposes:

Your homemade drain will serve you faithfully no less than an industrial one if you choose the right material for it. Sewer pipes can be completely different types, for different parts of the drainage system. After all, you know that there are internal and external drains, and the first is used mainly only for flat roofs. It is well hidden from the sun’s rays, and therefore almost any sewer pipes are suitable for its installation.

But for a gable or shed roof, it is important for you to learn to understand the material.

White pipes - for internal drains

White pipes are used for installing indoor sewage systems. Their material is designed mainly for high temperature water and has a high level of sound insulation.

White pipes can be used as drainage only in areas where winters are warm and mild, because... Such plastic will not withstand sudden temperature changes. So forget about this option for now.

Gray pipes - for warm winters

Gray pipes are the most common. They are also used inside the house, but their plastic is stronger. It is designed for high temperatures, but does not tolerate frost and physical activity.

Therefore, if you live in the southern regions of Russia, where the climate is quite mild and there is almost no frost, it will not be a problem for you: how to make a drain from sewer pipes of this color and how long it will last you. Just remember to constantly clean them of snow and ice to prevent them from crumbling.

Brown pipes - for severe frosts

And here brown pipes used when installing sewerage systems outside. They are distinguished by a thick wall, which perfectly tolerates sub-zero temperatures and high pressure from the water mass.

The only thing such pipes are not adapted to is hot water temperature. After all, it is calculated that the sewer water from the house, before it gets into the brown pipes, after the white and gray ones, has already cooled down, plus the cooler air temperature outside will complete its work. Such pipes can easily withstand loads from snow and ice, are quite durable, but cannot withstand direct sunlight for a long time and become fragile over time.

Here's a nice drain made from a brown sewer pipe:

Do-it-yourselfers are especially pleased with the fact that the price of one sewer pipe is less than that of a gutter of the same length. But from one pipe you get two gutters!

How to design a future drainage system?

In technical terms, a drainage system is a set of gutters and pipes that collects and removes water from the roof. A drainage system, or drain, is also often called a separate gutter or pipe. And now let's figure out how to make a good drain for your home from the pipes you purchased. First you will need to draw up a sketch and calculate the dimensions of all the parts.

How to make a drain for a pitched roof?

So you will need a certain amount of gutters, which are easy to calculate based on the parameters of the roof perimeter. You will install 17 brackets for every 10 meters. The outlet has exactly the same length as the total length of the drain pipes. You will also need funnels, pipes, 1 piece for every 10 meters, corner elements, plugs, couplings (exactly 2 times less pieces than gutters), elbows, the number of which will depend on the complexity of the easternmost system.

For you the most simple option It will be easy to draw a diagram of the future water supply system on a sheet of paper. Thus, it is customary to install outlet pipes with funnels every 12 meters. If the side of the house is smaller, place them in the corners, and only two of them will be enough. Take waste pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters, and purchase a transition tee 110 by 50 mm. The size of one drain can be 10 centimeters, which is quite enough for the roof of a private house. From one pipe you will get two trays of the same size.

Next, you will need to plug each end of the gutter. Take an inspection plug or a regular one, cut into two parts. When all the elements are already located on your sheet, count the total number:

• With a roof slope area of ​​up to 50 square meters you will need a pipe with a diameter of 80 millimeters.
• At 125 square meters, this is already 90 millimeters.
• For more than 125 square meters, you need to take a 100 mm pipe.

You will choose funnels and adapters after deciding on the diameter of the pipes. Therefore, at this stage, already draw up a sketch of the future water supply system and mark suitable locations for the location of drains and installation of gutters. Once you have the entire scheme ready, you can purchase the material.

How to make a drain for a flat roof?

So let's figure out how to make and install a drain from sewer pipes for a flat roof. Yes it is possible! There is a big bonus here: the drain will be built into the wall, and it will not be located outside. Therefore, sewer plastic is not afraid of either frost or destructive UV rays.

Your main task is to make sure that water easily flows from the roof to one place, in its center. This is where you need to install a drainpipe, or even several. The only thing you have to take care of is to insulate such a pipe, or place it in special insulation so that condensation does not collect on it. And after installing the funnel, simply cover it with a grill so that it does not clog.

How to make a mount for a homemade drain?

To secure your homemade drain you will need brackets. You can buy them ready-made or make them yourself. The only difference will be that many types of ready-made brackets are designed for the same ready-made drainpipes.

See how their edges are curved so that the bracket can easily snap onto them. But if you are simply attaching a cut sewer pipe, it does not have such a rim on the side. Therefore, it is better to purchase one bracket for testing and try on the pipe - will it hold? That is why, when making a homemade drain, many craftsmen make the brackets themselves - these are more suitable and often turn out to be even more reliable.

Ready-made brackets for drainage systems

Finished metal brackets must be bent using a special device so as not to damage the polymer coating. After all, if small microcracks appear, water can easily get into them and corrosion will begin. And this already significantly reduces the reliability of the entire drainage system!

And here are the finished plastic hooks on a homemade drainage system:

This mount is well suited for organizing gazebo drainage:

Homemade fasteners: selecting and manufacturing

And the durable fasteners that come with sewer pipes are quite suitable for drainage pipes. Moreover, they are designed to withstand the weight of water, and therefore are more durable, and go well with the color of the pipes themselves:

If you make the fastener yourself, you’d better get a special hook bender, or at least a small vice. Once you have driven in one hook, present it to the overhang and check the angle of the hook. The gutter mounted on it should then be positioned strictly perpendicular to the ground. It is important to bend the bracket so that the front edge of the gutters is only 2mm lower than the rear. This is the only way that water, if it overflows the gutter, will come out through the external screens, and not flow along the walls of the house.

Bending hooks using a regular vice is an exhausting task. The fact is that the clicks of the vice do not clamp the holder completely. Therefore, experienced craftsmen prefer to make tools for bending metal gutter holders themselves. Here are the simplest instructions:

• Step 1. Take a regular metal corner with a wall thickness of at least 6 mm, or a channel of the same parameters.
• Step 2. In the channel with a grinder, cut a slot of such length that it is equal to the width of the gutter holder.
• Step 3. Take a square pipe in which the inner walls are slightly larger than the width of the gutter holder.
• Step 4. Now mark the bend points on all holders. After this, we insert the holder into the square pipe, take a wooden block and forcefully insert it inside the pipe.
• Step 5. Set the required bend angle.
• Step 6. Now insert the holder into the slot and align it to the marked bend.
• Step 7. Now we knock out the block with another piece of wood from the opposite end of the pipe.
• Step 8. If there was already paint on the handle, it will also crack a little, but it can be touched up. But in the final result, the quality of the joke will be much higher than that bent with a vice.

By the way, here is a wonderful master class on how to make such hooks even faster and easier:

Another interesting option to bend the hook:

• Step 1. Using an angle grinder, we make a very small mark with a depth of 1 to 2 millimeters.
• Step 2. We nail one nail or one self-tapping screw through the hook into the rafter and bend the hook itself. It will bend exactly along the sawed line and will not break over time.

Once all the fasteners are ready, walk around your home and see how best you can secure it all.

Of course, it is advisable to install the gutter before you cover the roof. The following illustration will help you understand how to install the mount:

Converting pipes into drainage elements

Let's now prepare the sewer pipes themselves. You will need to cut them lengthwise. From one pipe you will get two excellent identical complaints. In practice it's quite simple! To ensure an even cut, follow these instructions:

• Step 1. Place the pipe on the boards, and attach the wall at the bottom with self-tapping screws at both ends.
• Step 2. Connect the screws with a thick thread and use a permanent marker to mark the place where you will cut the pipe.
• Step 3. Remove the thread and cut the pipe with a grinder.
• Step 4. Now do everything exactly the same on the other side. The only difference will be that now you will need two screws.

Here's a great one step-by-step master class:

Our advice: if you are working with an angle grinder, be careful! Melted plastic is actually very hot and can even burn your hands. And flying particles can hurt your eyes. Therefore, be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses when cutting sewer pipes. As home craftsmen note, sewer pipes are also easy to cut with a jigsaw or wood saw, and the whole difficulty lies only in the correct marking of the longitudinal marks for cutting. But the most convenient way, of course, is to make gutters from sewer pipes using a grinder with a thin metal circle.

And connecting the finished elements is quite simple:

You will be interested to know that instead of ugly vertical pipes, you can use... chains. This is quite a popular method! The principles of constructing such a drain are quite simple: the chain must be firmly connected to the gutter and the base.

At the same time, it is tensioned so that it cannot move to the side, and for this purpose it is most often buried in a concrete base or in the ground. And the façade is protected from water splashes by a small canopy. Looks amazing!

The advantage of such “gutters” is that they are less noticeable against the background of the house and do not interfere with its exterior. In addition, they are usually complemented with spectacular decorative elements. Moreover, today it is fashionable not just to lower chains down, but to create complex spatial forms from them, and even alternate them with decorative bowls made of ceramics or plastic.

The only inconvenience is that modern manufacturers of plastic gutters do not produce special elements for connecting gutters to the chain. But, since you make your own drain, and you yourself are the manufacturer, then there is no limit to your imagination! And this is convenient: you will have to tinker with cutting and connecting only the horizontal elements of the drainage system, and then lower the elements of beauty down. Why not?

Stage #2 – installation work

Now we will install our drain from sewer pipes:

• Step 1. First, the shortest and longest brackets need to be secured to the front board of the cornice.
• Step 2. After this, connect the gutters with a slope of 3 mm for every 50 cm so that the rainwater arrives at the very center. Please note that the edge of the roof must be in the middle of the gutter so that snow and ice in winter do not damage the gutters and the rainwater itself hits the target.
• Step 3. Once all the horizontal gutters are ready, install the water drainage pipes.
• Step 4. Fix such pipes to the wall, and leave a gap of 20 to 80 centimeters between them and the complaints. There will be a tee and elbow here, which will provide the transition from the gutter to the pipe.
• Step 5. Now cut two pieces of pipe, 5 centimeters each, which will serve as your connectors. Install each connector and secure with self-tapping screws. Apply silicone sealant to the mounting points to protect them from rainwater.
• Step 6. Secure the vertical pipes to the wall using brackets with clamps. For every meter of such pipes you will need only two fasteners, which is not a lot at all.
• Step 7. And at the very end of the pipe, at the bottom, install a bend. This is necessary to prevent water from getting under the foundation. It should be located at a distance of at least 30 cm from the wall.
• Step 8. Finally, cover the end of the gutter with caps, which you simply cut in half.

This is what installing a drain on plastic hooks looks like:

When installing the drain, do not clamp all the parts too tightly: a little movement is needed so that the entire structure changes slightly under the influence of temperatures.

Secure all gutters to the brackets using self-tapping screws. And so that later the pipes do not twist under the influence of sunlight, secure them with antennae on the brackets, or install spacers.

At the stage of final work, you will need to think about how to connect your homemade drainage system to the storm drain. To do this, an inspection should be made on the drainpipe - this is a section with a hatch and grates that will collect all the debris from the gutters. After all, it is important that only rainwater then goes into the sewer, without all this stuff, and does not clog the subsequent more complex system.

There are also alternative options: connect additional drainage pipes, and they will already communicate with the sewer or storm water inlet. The advantage of the latter is that it has a valve that does not allow odors to pass through and collects large debris in a special removable basket.

Some subtleties and nuances that are important to know about

When installing a homemade drainage system from sewer pipes, keep in mind that all PVC products change their physical parameters with temperature changes. Therefore, it is very important that the gutters can move freely in the brackets. And to do this, try to leave at least 9 centimeters from the junction of the gutters to the bracket. Also, the ends of the gutters must be tightly joined.

To prevent your drainpipes, made so carefully with your own hands, from becoming dirty and clogged with leaves, install a regular plastic mesh on top. It will allow water to pass through, but leaves and branches will not:

The owner of a ready-made industrial drainage system usually does not think about this, believing that manufacturers always take everything into account themselves. But when you do something with your own hands, you always want to do it well, and you won’t forget about such details.

This is why it turns out in practice that often homemade drainage systems turn out to be both stronger and more durable. Moreover, some craftsmen also manage to get creative, for example, using a drain to bring water into their garage - catch a great idea:

If you live in a region with snowy winters, install an additional heating cable in the gutters. Don’t worry about the material of the sewer pipes: they are designed for temperatures above average, so the cable will not harm them in any way.

There is one more important rule: do not install gutters in temperatures below zero. After all, when the air temperature rises higher with the onset of spring, the pipes will simply twist. In any case, even just in cool weather, it is important to calculate all expansion joints and gaps so that the system does not “play” later.

This usually does not happen because industrial versions of drainage systems have special notches inside the parts that help to correctly connect the elements at a specific air temperature. But in the case of sewer pipes, you will have to do everything on a whim.

Issues of aesthetics and stylistic unity

There is such an interesting architectural element - gargoyles. These are the heads or bodies of fantastic animals with open mouths, which usually end the gutter. In other words, they are “terribly cute little animals” on your roof.

Of course, in a ready-made industrial drainage system such decorative aspects are rarely implemented; there is more emphasis on practicality. But, if you are making the gutter yourself, why not design it to be more impressive, wouldn’t you agree?

One of the final stages of building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from precipitation and prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowledge of the design and installation rules of gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has remained virtually unchanged over the years - the main components still remain gutters and risers in the form of vertically located pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is on a grand scale, and today you can purchase ready-made elements for any, even the most complex systems, as long as material capabilities allow.

After the necessary calculations, the required number of parts is purchased, then they are folded according to the principle of a designer and mounted according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to the indicated elements, the installation kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build the structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of drains based on material of manufacture

Before purchasing and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer element sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

• design– drawing up a diagram, selecting components, calculations;
• assembly of the water intake part of the system– mainly horizontal elements;
• installation of risers, directing precipitation into.

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 – design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roofing surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be removed in full, the following points should be clarified:

• Number of drainage gutters. A gable roof has two of them, and a hip roof has four, connected into a continuous contour for a more efficient drainage system. If there are more slopes, then there is a gutter under each one.
• Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are placed at the corners of the job - there can be 2,3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
• Bracket type. Usually two types are used: the long ones are mounted on the sheathing, even before laying the final roofing covering, and the short ones are fixed on the front board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
• Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered drainage, gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

The location of the risers largely determines whether the system can cope with the drainage of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

To correctly install funnels and compensators, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, angle of inclination, total area roofs

You shouldn’t forget about the aesthetic side and ease of use - drainpipes should not protrude far forward from the facade, or go onto pedestrian paths or the adjacent area being used.

Calculations are made individually; there are no universal offers.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

• the length of the gutters will be calculated based on the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm for linear expansion for every 12 m;
• connecting elements for gutters are selected based on the standard length of one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
• the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - another funnel or compensator;
• the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; don’t forget about additional ones - for funnels;
• the length of the drainpipes is determined by the height of the walls minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
• the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - at intervals of 1.2-1.5 from them.

A couple more important dimensions that should be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the downpipes.

Due to the protruding eaves, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve this, bends are used, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the façade.

If the area of ​​the slope does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage #2 – installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets that usually support gutters, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing covering to expose the sheathing.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, fix short hooks to the front side of the cornice trim.

The holders are secured in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, to a maximum of 2/3 of its width

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric runoff over the edge, as well as the accumulation of snow.

The brackets are mounted in the following order:

• preliminary fitting and selection of length/installation location;
• determining the angle of inclination towards the drainage funnel;
• bending of holders;
• installation of extreme brackets;
• installation of other elements along a pre-tensioned cord.

After installing the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, we place it in the right place against the gutter, outline the outline, then remove it and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel to the hole.

To seal the connection, coat an area 0.5-0.7 cm wide with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply applied from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with an already fixed funnel. Then the next one joins it, and so on until the highest point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also coated with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at the extreme points that do not end in funnels.

Installation of short brackets is done differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the front board. Fastening element has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a slight protrusion beyond the cornice, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage #3 – installation of drainpipes

Assembly of the riser begins from the top part - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installing elbows: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to maintain the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the coupling connectors

Starting from the funnel and the joint of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps to secure the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with the clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, clamps modern systems On the inside they are equipped with a dense rubber seal.