Liquid artificial stone. Artificial stone: types, production at home, materials, equipment, techniques What artificial decorative stone consists of

If you are going to do renovations, you will probably start by studying the range of modern materials. Today there are a lot of them. Wood and plastic, ceramics and glass, various synthetic compounds that allow you to make your home as cozy and beautiful as you would like it to be. Started gaining popularity today new material, which has already won the hearts of most housewives. Are you wondering what artificial stone is? If yes, then our article is especially for you.

Technological subtleties

We are all accustomed to the fact that there are many things made of wood at home. Kitchen cabinets, window sills, tables, all of this was previously made from natural boards, and later they were replaced by slabs of pressed sawdust, covered with laminate. Beautiful, easy to produce, they have filled the market of materials for the production of kitchen furniture for a long time. for a long time, until we found out what artificial stone is. The big disadvantage of laminated chipboards is that they are afraid of moisture and immediately begin to swell. That's why they started looking for a replacement for him,

Main advantages

If one of your friends has already ordered similar products for their home, then they can probably tell you what artificial stone is. The unique combination of high decorativeness with strength, durability and decorativeness has made it the most popular material all over the world in a matter of months. Initially, craftsmen began making kitchen countertops from it. Then we turned our attention to all the other interior items, furniture, tiles for the kitchen and bathroom. Today we want to tell you in more detail what artificial stone is. Its surface has no pores, which means it does not absorb dirt and moisture. It is this property that makes it a truly unique material from which you can make anything.

Several varieties

Surely progress will not stop there, because today stone has already completely eclipsed laminated chipboard and MDF facades in popularity. This is not surprising. Of course, its cost is slightly higher, but this is compensated by its long service life and stunning decorative properties. The production of artificial stone involves two main technologies:


Kitchen design with stone trim elements

There is something about this that comes from time immemorial. It’s as if, together with the stone, we bring a piece of inviolability and reliability into our home. But not everyone can afford to design an interior using natural rocks. It's just expensive. As a compromise that combines a reasonable price and excellent results, a countertop made of artificial stone, as well as other interior items, can be used.

Moreover, these products often turn out to be even stronger and more beautiful than their noble counterparts. Using acrylic or quartz stone you can:

  • Visually highlight the bar, dining and work areas.
  • Emphasize window and door openings.
  • Design kitchen apron.
  • Cover niches or pillars.

Adding brightness

The modern housewife will not be surprised by the opportunity to have a kitchen apron and countertop in pink, white or green. Many of them want to decorate them with beautiful designs. Today this is possible, and there will be no need to stick anything additional to the surface of the finished product. Even during production, designers will create the desired image and hide it under an acrylic apron. Now he is not in danger of any damage, the drawing will delight you for many years. The stone is distinguished by the fact that dirt does not linger on it at all. Now you can avoid expensive cleaning products.

Artificial stone countertop

This is a modern trend that will not go out of fashion for a long time due to its practicality. This material is attractive due to its wide color spectrum. Manufacturers can create almost any transitions and halftones, and even age the stone using a special rub. Kitchen countertops made of artificial stone can have absolutely any configuration. This material is easy to cut and joins without seams. Customers managed to evaluate the resistance of such a surface to abrasion. The surface of the countertop is subjected to heavy loads, and decorative stone can retain its original appearance for several decades. If the surface becomes scratched over time, it simply needs to be polished and it will be like new again.

New format sinks

We are accustomed to the fact that they are traditionally made from steel or cheaper metals, stainless steel or even aluminum. But if you decide to make a stone countertop, then it makes sense to remove the old sink from the interior. First of all, it should be noted that in terms of color and texture it will be easier to choose a kitchen structure made of the same material. But beauty is not everything. The modern housewife is also concerned about functionality.

It is made from granite chips and quartz sand, and acrylic is used as a binding material. This combination allows us to achieve the highest strength. The color scheme depends on the added dye, so you can choose absolutely any shade you want. Artificial stone is completely immune to mechanical stress, grease does not stick to the surface, and it can be easily washed without the use of modern chemicals. In addition, they fit perfectly tightly to the tabletop, leaving no opportunity for dirt to get into the cracks. Thin, cheap sinks tend to rattle when water flows down them, but here you won’t hear a sound.

Window sills

Until recently they were made of wood, but today everyone has sparkling white plastic ones. They are quite beautiful, but after a few years you will notice that the color is no longer so pure, and in some places stains form that cannot be cleaned. What to do? Change to something more functional. can have any color and shape. You can place flower pots on it, no problems with stains. If you have a small kitchen, then it can be modified into another countertop. This will be a functional solution for small apartments.

What else is good about these window sills? They are UV resistant and do not change color even when exposed to high temperatures. There are no pores in artificial stone, so it will never be favored by harmful fungi and mold.

Light version

Products made from artificial stone are quite heavy, so today manufacturers have learned to take a solid chipboard or MDF board as a basis, and make it lighter and cheaper, which does not in any way affect the quality and properties. It can be used to make a work surface and a bar counter, as well as kitchen furniture. Yes, we were not mistaken. This is a new direction today that is actively developing. Why don't you order a table made of artificial stone?

Furniture Features

Wooden, glass, plastic - all these interior items have become familiar. But a table made of acrylic stone will certainly draw attention to itself and will become an ideal decoration for any home. This option will especially appeal to those who want to order a table with an absolutely incredible shape. Such an original project will emphasize your individuality and originality of creative thinking.

If it is intended for the kitchen, then it is very important that the surface is in harmony with the countertop. You can complete a project according to which the future table will, if necessary, be joined to its working surface. This can be convenient when working with dough and baking.

For office cabinet

Indeed, it was initially believed that artificial stone would fulfill its mission best in the kitchen. However, the material turned out to be so bright, beautiful and practical that today it can be seen almost everywhere. For example, complex, curvilinear silhouettes of tables in respectable offices of directors have become very popular recently. Recently, U-shaped and S-shaped structures are increasingly used.

And here artificial stone will become an ideal material that will allow such a project to be implemented. The unique ability to combine colors allows you to achieve any visual effect. Old, mossy stone, with gilding, with slate inclusions, everything that will fit perfectly with the interior and reflect its general idea.

For baths and saunas

What do you expect to see when you enter the steam room? There are wooden walls and shelves, and in the next room there is a metal bathtub, ranging from a small one to a huge pool. But modern materials completely change the idea of ​​what a bathhouse should be like. Wooden walls are beautiful, but short-lived, so they are replaced by stone. But if finishing with natural wood is very expensive, then an artificial analogue will allow you to create a masterpiece for a very reasonable price. Moreover, wall cladding in this case is much easier. If working with granite or marble requires first installing a metal frame, then everything is much simpler here. Lubricate the surface with tile adhesive and press the stone. That's it, your dream has come true.

But the designers went even further and created a bathtub project made of artificial stone. Small and large, with or without hydromassage, they resemble a natural pond, allowing you to fully relax and escape from problems. The original appearance is admirable, while color scheme will depend on the client's wishes. Most often natural, natural shades are used. For example, brown specks on a beige background. It is beautiful, gentle and very stylish. It’s as if a small stone grotto has grown in the middle of your bathroom, filled with water from an underground source. Artificial stone for baths and saunas has become a new, revolutionary material that has opened up incredible possibilities for design. The cost can hardly be called low, but the appearance, functionality and service life are also very different from everything that existed before.

Instead of a conclusion

Artificial stone has triumphantly entered the field of interior design and is not going to give up its position. Beautiful, functional, durable, it is now widely used in the development of ready-made and customized kitchen solutions. And what could be better? A bright, stylish and durable kitchen that is resistant to mechanical damage and moisture. Year after year, the coatings will remain the same as on day one. Today, artificial stone has gone beyond the kitchen and stepped into living rooms and offices. Surprisingly, it finds its application in almost every room, organically integrating into the interior, complementing and decorating it. The only thing the designer must take care of is good lighting so that the stone comes to life and reveals its beauty.

Cladding the basement of the house, façade and interior walls stone is becoming increasingly popular. And this is not at all surprising, since such a design not only protects surfaces from mechanical damage and contamination, but also becomes spectacular. But the problem is that natural stone has considerable mass and creates significant additional loads on wall structures. In addition, working with it is quite difficult, and the cost of such finishing often becomes a reason to abandon this approach.

There is a way out - to use artificial stone for such purposes. It is lighter in weight and easy to process, so it is not so difficult to work with, fixing it to surfaces. Artificial stone is an excellent substitute for natural stone, and it can be used not only for wall decoration, but also for cladding flower beds and fountains, as well as for laying out garden paths.

It is also important that this finishing material has a very affordable price. But in order to achieve even more significant savings, many owners with a creative streak are asking a fair question about how to make artificial stone with their own hands at home. This possibility exists, and making this material is not so difficult if you prepare everything that is required to prepare the solution, as well as to create forms with the desired relief of the future “stone”.

Before we begin to describe the manufacturing technologies of this finishing material, you should understand what it is and what it consists of.

Artificial stone can be made from various materials, which are selected depending on which wall will be decorated with it - façade or interior.

Yes, for interior decoration the stone is often made on the basis of gypsum, and for the exterior - from cement mortar with various additives. The list of such additives includes materials that give the finished stone a relief pattern - this can be fine gravel, sand, stone chips and other components. In addition, to give the artificial stone the desired shades, dry or diluted coloring pigments are prepared. If several of them will be used, it is important to select them in such a way that they are harmoniously combined with each other.

In order for the finishing stone to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to prepare a good form for it. By making the appropriate purchase or doing it yourself once, you can produce the required amount of stone that will be used to transform your house or garden.

You should not buy a cheap plastic mold, as it may break after the first batch of stones made. The best option would be a matrix made of silicone, as it will last a long time and help produce as much finishing material as needed.

Making molds for artificial stone

In specialized stores you can find ready-made kits for making this finishing material, which simplifies the work even more, but for any owner it is quite possible to make the forms yourself.

The condition for successful work is a high-quality matrix mold

For example, a certain design of a particular surface is planned, but the stone that is optimally suited for this style is too expensive, or it was not possible to select the desired shade option at all. In this case, you can purchase one or several tiles of store-bought artificial stone, and make the necessary shapes based on the purchased samples.

In addition, a real stone with a textured pattern you like, which cannot be found in stores, can be taken as the basis for the template.

Prices for artificial stone Monte

artificial stone Monte

It is not necessary to use stone or tile as a “source” for making a matrix. Often, for this purpose, wood with a beautiful textured pattern is taken, which is first deepened.

Forms can be single or complex. The former are much easier to do than the latter, since they do not require oversized formwork and the use of large amounts of silicone. However, it should immediately be noted that in the future it will become easier and faster to produce the artificial stone itself with a complex version of the matrix, because the output will be several finished products at once.

In any case, for the formwork you will have to find a ready-made or self-made plywood box or cardboard box. This element should have dimensions 10÷15 mm wider and 25÷30 mm higher than the original sample, according to which the mold will be made. If the stone must have very small dimensions, then even an ordinary juice box, cut off from one of the wide sides, will be suitable for formwork. It has enough rigidity to withstand silicone pouring.

You can do it differently by connecting several juice boxes together, maintaining a distance of 10 ÷ 12 mm between them. But at the same time, this gap must be hermetically closed, as it will become walls between future forms.

Next, you can proceed to preparing the initial sample and embedding material. It can be used as silicone sealant, polyurethane, or a compound specially designed for such purposes, consisting of two components.

Silicone mold

Silicone sealant is sold in tubes or buckets, and you need to purchase the amount of material that is needed to make the mold.

  • When the formwork is ready, any greasy lubricant is applied to its inner walls - it can even be ordinary grease.
  • Next, the initial element is placed on the bottom of the formwork - it can be natural stone, tiles with smooth surfaces, a ready-made version of artificial stone, a board or other object from which the form will be made.
  • Then, the object placed in the formwork is also lubricated with a greasy substance - this must be done so that the silicone can be easily removed after it hardens.

It should be noted here important point– if a ready-made artificial stone made of gypsum is used as the initial sample, then it is first coated with two to three layers of varnish or drying oil, each of which must be well dried.

  • The next step is to prepare a soap solution, which is necessary to wet the brush and spatula used when laying out and distributing the silicone inside the formwork.

  • If silicone is purchased in a tube, then it is completely squeezed out into the formwork, and then, dipping a brush in a soapy solution, it is distributed inside the box. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the silicone fits tightly, without the formation of air pockets, to the stone sample, which is laid on the bottom of the formwork. To do this, the laid out composition is not simply smoothed with a brush, but compacted.

Sequence of manufacturing a silicone matrix - continued

  • Having filled the formwork to the required level, the surface of the silicone is leveled with a spatula, which is also wetted in a soap solution.
  • After the work is completed, the formwork with silicone is left to polymerize.

There is no need to rush to remove the mold - the longer it sits untouched, the better the quality of the matrix, the more cycles of artificial stone production it will withstand. Polymerization proceeds from the outer surfaces deep into the silicone, and as a guide, its speed can be taken as 2 mm of thickness per day. So the process of complete hardening of the forms can take from several days or even several weeks, depending on the depth and thickness of the fill. Therefore, if you decide to start making artificial stone at a certain time, for example, in the summer months, then you should take care of preparing matrices for this in advance.

Upon expiration of the estimated period, the formwork is removed from the structure. The resulting form is carefully removed and washed from grease, and only after that it will be ready for further use.

The table presented shows the main technical characteristics of silicone sealant that must be taken into account when making a matrix for artificial stone from it:

Normal valuesResults shown during testing
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (minutes), no more.30 5÷25
Viability of the composition (hours), no more.8 6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less0.1 0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.300 400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.2 0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.1 0.35÷0.45
Density (kg/m³), no more.1200 1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.20 20

Compound matrices

Specialized stores also sell special compounds intended for the manufacture of injection molds. The characteristics of one of these compositions from the domestic manufacturer Tekhnologiya-Plast LLC, under the name Silagerm 5035, can be considered in more detail.

This polyurethane compound, consisting of two components, is intended specifically for making molds. Moreover, when using such specialized compositions, matrices are obtained with excellent physical characteristics and a long service life.

Silagerm 5035 can be used not only in the production of molds for artificial stone, but also for the production of matrices intended for casting sculptures or architectural details from gypsum and other building materials.

Molding polyurethane compound "Silagerm 5035" is available in beige color and has different hardness parameters - 40 and 30 units. according to Shor's table.

The main physical and technical characteristics of Silagerm 5035 are given in the table:

Main indicators of the materialShore hardness 30±3Shore hardness 40±3
Time of formation of the surface film after mixing the components (minutes), no more40÷5040÷50
Viability (minutes), no more60÷12060÷120
Conditional tensile strength (MPa), not less3.0÷4.53.5÷5.0
Elongation at break (%), not less450÷600400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more1 0.8
Viscosity (centipoise, cP).3000÷35003000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.1.03±0.021.07±0.02

The time for complete hardening of the finished mixture is only 24 hours.

In order for the mold to last as long as possible, before filling it with a solution of gypsum or cement, it is recommended to lubricate its internal surface with a special release agent “Tiprom 90”.

The Silagerm 5035 compound is sold in 1.5 and 7.5 kg buckets.

Manufacturing a matrix using a special compound “Poly 74-29”»

« Poly 74-29"- this compound from a German manufacturer is available in several versions, which are determined by a digital marking code. Last numbers This designation speaks of such a parameter as the hardness of the material after the form hardens.

The special German-made compound “Poly 74-29” has earned excellent reviews from matrix manufacturers.

Below in the table for interested readers there will be step-by-step instructions for making a matrix from this compound

Illustration
To work in this case, the master prepared the following tools and materials - these are product templates from which the mold will be removed, plastic sandwich panels for assembling formwork 15÷20 mm thick, double-sided tape, technical Vaseline, a brush 12÷15 mm wide, stationery knife, soft cloth, plasticine and ruler-level.
It should be noted here that any other material that has high strength and a smooth surface can be used for formwork.
Vaseline can also be replaced by any other similar lubricant that is inert to polyurethane.
Any material with the texture pattern, shape and thickness you like can be taken as initial samples for making the matrix.
In this case, natural stones of different sizes and shapes were chosen as a model.
Their artificial analogue can subsequently be used for both interior and exterior decoration.
The first step is to make formwork, which should have the size of the future matrix.
The bottom of the formwork is laid on a flat surface of the work table. In this case, it is a cut fragment from a PVC sandwich panel.
Selected samples are laid out on the surface of the bottom part of the future box-shaped structure.
The stones must be located at a distance of no less than 10 and no more than 20 mm from each other, since this distance will be the thickness of the walls between the individual sectors of the same matrix.
In addition, it is necessary to immediately take into account the thickness of the walls that will be installed around the perimeter of the bottom of the formwork. Stones should also be removed from the walls at a distance of 10÷15 mm.
Next, the location of the stones is marked on the bottom surface with a marker.
This is done so that after removing them and applying glue, return them to their original place and maintain the already specified distance between them, and therefore the thickness of the future walls.
Then the stones are temporarily removed, since they need to be fixed to the bottom surface using glue-sealant or double-sided construction tape.
The second option is much easier to implement than the first. If this method of fixation is used, then it is best to stick the tape onto the surface of the bottom of the formwork.
If glue is used, it should be applied to the central side of the lower surface of the stone in a relatively thin layer, as it should in no case protrude over the edges.
After gluing the samples, gaps of varying thickness will inevitably remain between the surface of the base and the stone.
They must be carefully sealed. This sealing will prevent liquid polyurethane compound from getting under the stones.
These gaps can be sealed with plasticine, which is rolled out into a thin strip.
Then the resulting plasticine rope is laid around the perimeter of the junction of the stone with the base.
First, the plastic mass is distributed with your fingers, and then finally smoothed with a stack.
Instead of this material, a sealant can be used, which is applied in a thin strip, also at the joint, and then spread with a finger moistened with a thick soap solution. However, in this case you will have to wait until the silicone sealant sets well.
However, whatever material is used for this process, it should not extend beyond the shape of the stone.
It is recommended to cover the surface of the glued initial samples with technical petroleum jelly, wax dissolved in white spirit, or use a special release wax lubricant for this purpose.
If this is not done, or this process is carried out poorly, then in untreated areas, the polyurethane will definitely stick to the stone, which means the matrix form can be hopelessly damaged.
Such coating should cover all areas of the stone, down to the smallest details of the relief, that is, it should be carried out with special diligence.
When the stones are securely fixed and processed accordingly, formwork walls are installed around them, which must be raised from the bottom to two heights of the stone.
The walls of the formwork can be tightened with clamps (as in the option under consideration) or twisted at the corners with self-tapping screws - it all depends on the material they are made of and the availability of the necessary fastening tools and devices.
In addition to clamps, a special belt is used to tighten the formwork structure. It will additionally connect the bottom of the formwork with the walls.
The finished formwork box must be well insulated from the inside, covering the joints between the bottom and walls, as well as the gaps at the corners.
This process can also be carried out using plasticine, rolling it into strips and distributing it in the desired areas.
Further, it is recommended to treat the entire internal space of the formwork and the stones themselves, fixed on its bottom part, with one of the release agents (anti-adhesive).
In this case, the composition “Pol-Ease2300” was used.
After all the formwork inside has been processed, it needs to be thoroughly dried, and only then can the compound be poured into it.
The release agent will ensure effective separation of the original images and formwork walls from the molding polyurethane and will ensure easy removal of the finished matrix.
The same compositions are used in the manufacture of artificial stones, only in this case, it is applied to the matrix before pouring the concrete or gypsum mixture into it.
The prepared formwork box should be checked for horizontal installation.
The entire resulting structure must stand perfectly level, otherwise the compound will flow to one side, and the shape will be uneven, and this, in turn, means that the stones will have a skewed lower surface, which will complicate their subsequent installation on the wall when finishing.
Next, the composition for pouring into the formwork is prepared.
In this case, the compound of the German manufacturer “Poly 74-29” is used. This composition is suitable for the manufacture of matrix molds that will be used for pouring cement or gypsum mortars into them. Different colors are given to the material for making matrices by adding a color pigment to it.
Complete polymerization of this product occurs after 16-24 hours, and its “lifetime” after mixing is only 30 minutes at an average temperature of +25 degrees. Therefore, when using this compound, you will have to act very quickly, and mix it immediately before pouring.
The compound is two-component. The working composition is prepared in 1:1 proportions and thoroughly mixed until smooth.
The ingredients can be mixed using a spatula or a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill - the tool is selected depending on the amount of mass to be kneaded.
Using a mixer for preparation, turn on the electric drill at low speed so that the resulting mixture does not become too porous due to a large number of air bubbles.
If the components of the compound are not completely used, then their remains in standard containers should be tightly closed with lids.
Next, the resulting mass is very carefully poured into the prepared form.
Another option is to apply it layer by layer using a spatula, but the latter method is more complicated, since for it the proportions of the components must be calculated separately.
If the compound will be poured into a small mold, it is recommended to knead it manually, kneading it until the mass is completely homogeneous.
The finished composition is slowly poured into the formwork so as not to “catch” air bubbles so that the thickness of the fill above the highest point of the original sample is from 7 to 10 mm.
After the mixture is poured into the box, you must try to rid it of any remaining air bubbles. To do this, you need to carefully move the box back and forth, shaking it slightly, and repeat this several times.
Then you need to let the formwork with the filled solution sit for 5-10 minutes, and then carefully remove any air bubbles from the surface of the mass using a spatula.
The mold is left for a day until the compound has completely hardened.
It is not recommended to remove it from models before, since all the declared qualities are still gained within 72 hours. Therefore, after removing the matrix from the original sample, it must be kept for another two days without operation. So there’s no need to rush.
After this time, the matrix form will be suitable for filling with a solution with temperatures up to +80÷120 degrees.
Before removing the formwork elements from the matrix, it is recommended to spray “Pol-Ease2300” on its entire internal surface, as well as the bottom of the finished frozen form - this will make it easier to separate the walls from the polyurethane.
A day later, first the tightening belt is removed from the box-shaped formwork structure, and then the clamps.
Then they pass along the outer edges of the frozen form with a spatula, that is, they try to separate the polyurethane from the surfaces of the walls.
After such an operation, the walls should easily separate from the matrix.
The last stage of work, for the sake of which all the processes described above were carried out, is the removal of the finished form from the original stone samples.
To do this, carefully pick up the edge of the matrix and then slowly remove it completely.
As you can see, with high-quality preliminary preparation of formwork and stone samples, no traces of the polyurethane compound remain on them.
Now, having treated the mold with the selected anti-adhesive, you can begin making artificial stone from the material that is most convenient for you, taking into account, of course, the purpose of the prepared finish.

Video: example of making a mold for artificial stone from a silicone-polyurethane compound

Manufacturing of artificial stone

As mentioned above, it can be made from different materials, but in this section the production of two options will be considered, one of which is used for interior decoration, and the second for decorating the facade.

Artificial stone based on gypsum

Artificial gypsum stone is most often used for finishing interior walls, but with proper processing and impregnation, it is also suitable for some facade surfaces.

It should be said that gypsum is more popular for creating artificial stone than cement. It is easier to give this material the desired shade; after hardening, it is slightly lighter than products made from a cement composition, and has better adhesion to wall surfaces.

To make gypsum artificial stone, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Matrix form made of elastic material.
  • Electric drill with mixer attachment.
  • A container for mixing ingredients - this can be an ordinary plastic bucket.
  • Tray for drying tiles.
  • Brushes.
  • Spatulas.
  • White plaster.
  • Washed river sand.
  • Citric acid and PVA glue.
  • Composition of wax and turpentine.
  • Water at room temperature.
  • Dry coloring pigment of the desired shade.

To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare a small work area equipped with a workbench, the surface of which is leveled horizontally using a level, otherwise you may end up with tiles of different thicknesses.

If a large amount of finishing material is produced at once, then racks will be needed for final drying of the products, which should take place over several days.

Prices for artificial stone White Hills

artificial stone White Hills

And, of course, you need free space where the solution will be mixed.

When preparing gypsum molding mixture, a number of important nuances should be taken into account:

  • Gypsum is added to the water, and not vice versa, otherwise the mass will turn out heterogeneous, with lumps and inclusions.
  • It is important to remember that gypsum sets very quickly, literally within 5-7 minutes. Therefore, if there is a need to extend its hardening time, citric acid is added to the solution at the rate of 0.6-0.8 g of crystalline composition per 1 kg of gypsum. By adding this ingredient to the mass, you can extend the liquid state of the gypsum solution for up to one and a half hours. Citric acid is diluted in warm water, then, when mixed, added to the solution.
  • If the solution will be poured into a single mold, then the mass must be prepared in small quantities.
  • Sand is added to the solution to strengthen the finished product. The size of its fraction (from 0.01 to 1 mm) will depend on which model of artificial stone is chosen.
  • The mixture after mixing should have the consistency of thick but flowing sour cream.
  • The composition is assembled in different proportions, but usually 100 grams of sand are added to 1 kg of gypsum.
  • PVA glue is added to the mixture as a plasticizer. By the way, just like citric acid, it can somewhat extend the setting time of the mixture.
  • Gypsum and water are taken in proportions of 1.5:1, and this liter also includes the water in which citric acid is diluted.
  • The required amount of water is poured into a clean bucket. Further, if a dry coloring pigment is added to the solution, then it is immediately added to the water and mixed well.
  • The next step is to pour a measured amount of gypsum into the water and mix the solution again with a mixer.
  • Then sand is added to the solution and mixed again.

Before mixing the molding solution, it is necessary to prepare the matrix. If it is made of silicone or plastic, then it must be coated with a special composition consisting of turpentine and wax (or a special release agent). If the mold is made of polyurethane, then it does not require special preparation, although lubricant will still not be superfluous.

“Skala” is one of the popular types of artificial stone, used both for cladding facade walls and plinths, and for interior decoration. A similar imitation is applied to the entire surface or only individual sections of the walls. This artificial stone is well suited for many interior styles, so this type of cladding almost never goes out of fashion.

Find out several options on how to do it from a new article on our portal.

If the matrix form is made independently or purchased, then, having prepared the work table, you can proceed to the process of creating an artificial stone.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
This silicone mold for making artificial stone “Rock” consists of five large and five small compartments.
The convenience of such a matrix is ​​that you can make the required number of large or small stones separately, or make ten tiles of different sizes at once.
To make a mixture for pouring into such a matrix, you will need some building materials.
It is advisable that the recommended proportions be followed exactly, otherwise the products may turn out fragile, crumble and absorb moisture excessively.
So, the solution will require five kilograms of GVVS-16 gypsum, which must be weighed, since the hardening time and plasticity of the solution will depend on the exact amount of this material.
In addition to gypsum, you will need coarse dry sand - one and a half kilograms, as well as pure water- two liters.
These ingredients also need to be measured accurately, because their quantity also affects the quality of the finishing material to a certain extent.
To make the stone more picturesque, the water should be colored by adding 30 grams of black and 45 grams of yellow special coloring powder.
Separately, you need to prepare 400 ml of water, into which a pinch of citric acid is poured, and then the solution is mixed.
Citric acid must be completely dissolved, otherwise its grains may also negatively affect the solution.
While the acid is diluted in water, using a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill, the water with the color added to it is mixed, since it must also dissolve and give a certain color scheme to the “stone” being created.
The next step is to pour sand into the plaster, and then thoroughly mix this dry mixture, also using a mixer, with the drill set at low speed.
The next step is to add water mixed with citric acid to the bucket with the tinted solution.
The result is 2.4 liters of liquid on which the molding solution will be mixed.
Then the colored water needs to be mixed well again.
Next, the solution is poured into a bucket with a gypsum-sand mixture and thoroughly mixed to ensure a homogeneous state.
This process should last at least 5÷7 minutes.
As a result, the mass ready for pouring into the matrix should be quite liquid and look approximately as shown in the illustration.
Now we need to do a little work on the silicone matrix.
In order for the stone to have several shades, that is, to be picturesque and as close as possible to natural colors, the shape also needs to be slightly tinted.
For tinting, dry pigmenting powder is used, which is applied with a soft brush to individual areas of the form, selectively.
It is necessary to take into account that in order to maintain the authenticity of the imitation, the coloring composition is applied not only to the bottom of the mold, but also to the edges of the relief.
To make the finishing material more picturesque, you can use several different shades, but they must be in harmony with each other.
You should not paint over too large areas of the form, as the finished stone will lose its natural effect. The main color should remain the color that was given to the molding solution.
After the dry pigment has been applied to the form, the excess must be shaken off. To do this, the matrix is ​​turned over and shaken off - this procedure will help not only get rid of excess powder, but also distribute it evenly over areas of the mold.
Next, the form is installed on a flat work table, on which it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood, the same size as the silicone matrix.
The solution is poured into the mold, first in small portions, and it is laid out in each compartment separately.
This amount of mass will be better distributed along the bottom of the mold, filling all the deepest places of the relief.
Then, the form along with the plywood stand is lifted by one edge and shaken several times.
With this vibration effect, the solution spreads in the compartments of the mold, tightly filling all the folds of the relief.
When the first batch of mass has settled, the rest of the solution is laid out on top of it.
Most often, the remainder of the solution already has a thicker consistency, so it turns out that the gypsum-sand mass protrudes from above the edges of the matrix, that is, “with a slide.”
Since the solution contains gypsum, it will begin to thicken very soon, so everything needs to be done fairly quickly.
Having laid out the rest of the solution, it should be shaken down again, no longer lifting the form, but moving it sharply with the help of plywood placed under it, grabbing the sides of this stand.
Then, using a spatula, you need to quickly remove the solution protruding above the walls of the mold and distribute it evenly across all compartments.
Distribution is carried out until each of the departments is completely filled with gypsum-sand mass.
During the distribution process, the mold should be shaken periodically.
The surface of the solution is compared with the edges of the matrix also using a spatula.
This process will not be difficult to carry out if a spatula is used for it, having a width greater than the distance between the walls of the compartments.
When finishing leveling, use a spatula to thoroughly clean the upper part of the walls and partitions between the individual compartments, the so-called paths, from the mortar.
This must be done carefully so that after the solution has hardened, it is easy to remove the mold from the finished products.
After filling the matrix, it is recommended to immediately clean and wash all the tools from any remaining solution, otherwise, if it hardens, it will be quite difficult to return the working surfaces of the spatulas to normal condition.
After 20÷25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the future products, you can check the solidification of the solution.
The check is done by hand, and the heat emanating from the hardening tile should be clearly felt. The fact is that when gypsum is mixed with water and the solution sets, a certain chemical exothermic reaction occurs, accompanied by the release of thermal energy.
The next step is to take another sheet of plywood, also cut to the size of the mold - it covers the matrix on top of the poured blocks.
Then the bottom backing, the silicone mold and the top plywood sheet are grabbed at once.
Then the entire structure is turned over so that the bottom of the mold is on top.
The plywood that originally served as the backing is removed.
Well, then, grabbing the matrix from the corner, it is carefully removed from the molded products.
The finished “stones” remain on the plywood sheet.
After the matrix form is removed, it must be inspected - it must be clean, without any residual solution.
As a rule, coloring pigment remains in the folds of the relief, but if a batch of finishing stone is made, usually the same areas are tinted before each pour, so this is not critical.
The next step is sorting the finished products.
If suddenly a tile is discovered that has certain flaws, they are put aside for now. Perhaps it will be useful for cladding on peripheral, least noticeable areas of finishing.
At the end of the work, the finished “stones” can be laid out in different configurations, achieving a uniform distribution of tinted areas over the entire surface.
In this way, it will be easier to form a certain pattern from them than to carry out this procedure on the wall, already during the cladding process.

Additionally, the color can be applied to ready-made “stones”. In this case, painting is done using brushes of different widths, and it is not necessary to paint even, neat strokes, since the more chaotic they are, the more picturesque and natural the color of the stone imitation will turn out.

At the final stage, the painted “stones” can be coated with a special matte varnish for external work. You should not use varnish with a glossy effect, as such a finish will look unnatural. If the facing tiles will be used in a dry room, then covering them with a protective varnish is an optional condition.

A finishing material made from a gypsum-sand mixture is quite popular and is widely used for decorating interiors and facades. Such tiles are not used for laying paths, as well as fountains and fireplaces. For the design of these elements, artificial stone made from cement-based mass is more suitable. More on this in the next section of the publication.

Video: example of casting artificial stone on a gypsum basis

Artificial stone made from cement-based mortar

A cement-based composition opens up wider possibilities, since artificial stone made from it can be used in any area of ​​design of a suburban area, including for laying out garden paths or constructing an alpine slide.

To make an artificial stone from concrete, the tools you will need are the same as for gypsum mortar, and the following materials need to be prepared:

  • Gray cement M200÷M400 or Portland cement.
  • River washed sand.
  • PVA glue as a plasticizer, but you can do without it.
  • Coloring pigments.

The workplace, just as in the first case, must be equipped with a level table with a horizontal surface. Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the production of finishing materials.

It should be noted that artificial stone from cement mortar can be made in different ways. For example, if the stones imitate cobblestones on an alpine hill or in a flower garden, then they will do without a silicone mold at all. Further, both manufacturing methods will be discussed in the publication, but the composition for both options is made approximately the same.

The molding solution is made up of sand and cement in proportions 3:1. The components are mixed dry, and then water is added to the mixture in small portions, and the composition is mixed again using a mixer. This continues until the solution reaches the desired consistency and homogeneity. If you want to make the solution more plastic, PVA glue is added to it. You need to take about 50 grams per liter of cement-sand mixture.

During the mixing process, a coloring pigment is added to the mixture if it is intended to change the color of the cement or introduce any tint inclusions into it. The amount of pigment can only be determined experimentally, that is, adding it little by little and mixing, achieving the desired shade of the entire solution or its layers.

The first option is artificial stone for paving paths or for finishing walls

To begin with, we will consider the process of making stone for decorating garden paths. However, material for finishing walls is also made in the same way; it’s just that for paths they usually make blocks with a flat surface or with a shallow relief in depth.

  • The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution, which must be shaken periodically, moving back and forth, so that the mixture completely fills the entire relief. When the matrix is ​​filled, a medium-width or wide spatula is passed along its surface, collecting excess solution and cleaning the upper sides of the partitions between the individual matrices, if the filling is carried out in a common mold. In this case, the walls will serve as a kind of beacons for leveling the poured solution.
  • If artificial stones of large size are made, that is, a single deep matrix is ​​poured, then only half of its depth is initially filled with solution. Then a reinforcing mesh or rods is placed on top of the poured mixture, and only then the mold is filled with the mixture to the top, and the mass is leveled along the top edge.
  • When the cement mixture has set but still retains its plasticity, a lattice-shaped hatch is applied to its surface using a nail. It is necessary for better adhesion of artificial stone to the surface of the walls during cladding.

Production of single large-format “stones”

  • The initial hardening of the solution takes from 12 hours to a day. Then the resulting “stones” are removed from the mold and left on racks for the final maturation of the concrete and strength gain for at least two weeks.

  • If the next portion of the solution is to be poured into the matrix, then before doing so it must be washed with a soap solution.
  • After the stone is completely ready, it is cleaned of dust and dried small fragments, and, if necessary, covered with one or more paints of the selected shades. The created “stone” can be colored during the process of pouring the solution into the matrix, as shown in the table above, or after it hardens. However, it should be noted that the second coloring option will be much more difficult, since it is necessary to maintain harmonious shades on all stones produced in a given batch.
    Final processing may include coating the surface with a durable weather-resistant varnish.
The second option is artificial cobblestones

Making imitation stones with beautiful shapes is becoming a kind of hobby for many. This is especially true for those owners who want to have a corner on their site that is close to natural conditions, which they want to decorate in a special way. This is the direction in landscape design received a specific name - “Art concrete”.

In appearance - no different from a natural boulder

Artificial stones made with high quality using this technique are almost impossible to distinguish from natural boulders. The advantage of this manufacturing method is that you don’t have to look for the exact option for a sample that you would like to see on your site, but you can take it and make it yourself. Moreover, making such a “stone” is quite simple.

For work, in addition to the cement mortar already discussed, you will need the following materials:

  • Styrofoam. It can be of any thickness, but it is better that it be 100÷150 mm, since it will be much easier to cut out the desired shapes from such material.
  • Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.
  • A plastic bag or foam sponge to add relief or, conversely, to smooth surfaces.
  • Adhesive for foam plastic. For this, cement-based tile adhesive, polymer adhesive, or even polyurethane foam can be used.
  • Sandpaper with coarse and medium abrasive grain.
  • Acrylic paints and durable atmospheric varnish for decorating the resulting “stone”.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start working.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
The first step is to prepare foam panels of the required size.
Then they are glued together to a thickness equal to the height of the stone planned. This design is left until completely dry.
Next, the intended shape of the future “stone” is cut out from the resulting foam block blank using a construction knife.
It can be anything, but in order not to come up with it on the fly, it is best to make a sketch of the planned decorative element in advance.
Having cut out the desired shape, it is wrapped in reinforcing fiberglass mesh, trying to exactly repeat all the bends and irregularities of the future “stone”.
The mesh can be temporarily fixed with the same polymer glue for foam plastic.
Protruding parts of the relief can additionally be depicted by placing lumps or knots of dense fabric under the fiberglass mesh.

The next step is to prepare the cement mortar.
It must be said that instead of it, it is quite possible to use cement-based tile adhesive, intended for outdoor use or “for complex substrates.” This construction mixture is sold dry and mixed according to the instructions given on the packaging. The glue is more plastic than ordinary cement mortar, but its cost will, of course, be somewhat higher.
To give plasticity to a regular cement-sand mixture, you can add PVA glue to it.
Using a spatula or trowel, the solution is carefully applied to the foam mold on top of the reinforcing mesh. This is done with chaotic strokes - this will make it easier to give the surface the relief of natural stone.
If you plan to make a “smooth cobblestone,” then the applied solution is moistened and smoothed with a rubber-gloved hand, or a thick polyethylene bag is placed on top of it, leveled and carefully pressed against the damp concreted surface.
When the entire base of the future artificial stone is covered with a solution approximately 15–20 mm thick, it must be left for 20–30 minutes for initial setting.
The next operation is carried out if you do not plan to make the surface of the “stone” smooth, but want to give it a “natural” relief texture.
This can be done using a foam sponge or the same plastic bag, which is crumpled and in this form applied to the wet solution, leaving a relief on it.
After the cement (tile adhesive) has set, the “stone” is turned over and its bottom is also sealed with mortar. When the mixture in this area has slightly set, you should not wait for it to dry completely - the “stone” is placed on the bottom and slightly pressed against a flat surface (for this you can use, for example, a sheet of plywood).
Next, before leaving the resulting “stone” to completely harden and gain strength, it should be treated with coarse sandpaper. This operation is carried out three days after applying the solution to the reinforced form.
In order to completely complete the process of manufacturing artificial stone, it takes a lot of time, since the solution applied to the surface must dry well and gain the required strength.
Therefore, for complete readiness, you will need to wait at least 10-12 days, and if the cement mortar is applied in two or three thinner layers, you will have to pause in work for each of them to dry, and this will take even more time.
When the solution gains the necessary strength, the “stone” will need to be decorated, that is, the selected shade will need to be applied to it.
Before proceeding to painting, the workpiece is thoroughly cleaned - dust and small dried pieces of solution are removed, and then washed with water.
The next step, after the washed surface has dried, is to paint it.
The paint can be purchased in an aerosol can or you can use an acrylic composition, sold in regular packages, which is applied with a brush.
The paint must be applied in at least two layers to completely cover all the recesses of the relief pattern.
To give the surface a natural look, it is necessary to “reveal” the relief pattern, to make it visually more noticeable and convex.
This is done using sandpaper medium grit.
After such processing of the protruding unevenness of the “stone” relief, they are somewhat lightened, and the recesses remain darker, toned, which creates the necessary smooth contrast transition.
After this treatment, the “stone” is washed again with water and dried.
In order to protect the color of the “stone” from ultraviolet rays, so that this decorative accessory does not lose its original appearance, its surface must be coated with matte varnish for external use.
It is recommended to update this protective layer annually, then the artificial stone will decorate the garden plot for many years.
Depending on the size and shape of the manufactured “stone,” it can be used to disguise various elements that “fall out” from the general style of the landscape design of the site, but which are impossible to do without (for example, hatches for drainage or water wells).
Therefore, before choosing the shape of the future “boulder”, you should decide in advance on its installation location.

A few words about laying artificial wall stone

In order for the manufacturing process to be fully meaningful, it is necessary to make a number of comments about the features of laying artificial stone on the walls.

  • it is necessary to mount it on an adhesive made on the basis of the same material from which the finishing material itself is made. In this case, perfect adhesion of the decorative cladding to the wall surface will be guaranteed.
  • The masonry can be seamless or have perfectly even seams.

In order to maintain the required seam size throughout the entire masonry, special silicone or plastic calibrator strips are used to lay rows of finishing material. These elements are removed as the solution sets, which is completely removed from the seams. After the glue has completely dried, the seam gaps are filled with special grouts.

The seamless masonry method is used when it is planned to imitate a monolithic wall covering with stone.

Seams, of course, with this approach still exist, but they are made as invisible as possible. To obtain such a masonry, it is necessary that the “stones” fit each other perfectly, both in size and in the evenness of the edges.

Separately, we should highlight the masonry, which has different sizes and shapes. In this case, the seams may have different thicknesses and be at different heights in relation to each other. This masonry option can be called the most difficult, since during the manufacturing process you will have to carefully consider the “joining” of finishing elements both in color and shape.

In conclusion, it should be said that the manufacture and independent laying of artificial stone will certainly be interesting and exciting for creative people who are able to independently develop and implement their own projects for the design of individual objects of a country plot or the surfaces of the walls of a house, both outside and inside. Even if you have absolutely no experience in such work, but have a great desire to try your own strength in this field, you should not deny yourself this pleasure. Moreover, these days in construction stores it is easy to find any materials necessary for work.

The term “artificial stone” first appeared in Ancient Greece, where this was the name given to stone made from concrete, which was poured into wooden or iron molds. Such a stone was much cheaper and more convenient to use than a regular one. Nowadays, there are a large number of varieties of artificial stone: stone for exterior and interior decoration of buildings, stone used in the production of jewelry, acrylic stone, etc. Speaking about artificial stone in the interior for creating countertops, sinks, window sills, etc., Usually they mean acrylic stone. What kind of material is this?

Acrylic stone- a modern composite material invented by DuPont scientists in the USA in 1967. It is produced by many companies under different brands: “Corian”, “Acrylica”, “Staron”, “Montelli”, etc. The composition of acrylic stone necessarily includes a mineral filler, color components, as well as a cementing material represented by acrylic resin. Thanks to this, acrylic stone combines the functionality and practicality of artificially made materials and the beauty of natural stone.

Compound

Acrylic stone consists of 70-75% natural minerals (marble chips, white clay, sand, etc.) and pigments placed on an acrylic base (acrylic resin). Acrylic resin does not contain styrene; after polymerization, the monomer is practically absent in the finished product. As a result, acrylic resin has high biological indifference.

Properties

  • Acrylic stone is very durable and has a uniform structure.
  • Acrylic stone does not delaminate and has all the properties of natural stone.
  • The special composition of acrylic stone (acrylic resin) allows the production of products of any complexity without losing the integrity of the product.
  • The chemical components of acrylic stone give it good water resistance.
  • With both direct and tangential pressure on acrylic stone, it practically does not deform.
  • By adding various dyes to the composition of acrylic stone, it can have a wide color palette.
  • Acrylic stone does not absorb dirt, moisture, and cannot be a medium for the development of microbes and bacteria.
  • The joints of acrylic stone do not form visible seams, it is easy to clean (almost any contamination is washed off with soapy water).
  • Acrylic stone is durable and resistant to aggressive household substances.
  • When heated (thermoforming), acrylic stone can be given almost any shape.

Advantages

Wide range of possibilities

The technology for manufacturing artificial stone today allows us to achieve a huge variety of colors and textures. This material combines perfectly with wood, glass, metal and other modern materials, which allows it to be used in creating interiors for both residential premises and public buildings. Artificial stone is used to make kitchen countertops, window sills, bathroom countertops with built-in sinks, bar counters for cafes and restaurants, reception desks, showers for hotels, fitness clubs, counters and display cases for shops and boutiques, countertops for office desks. Due to its resistance to aggressive environments, artificial stone is indispensable for medical institutions, beauty salons, and club interior decoration.

Products are made from sheets of artificial stone 12.7 mm thick, connected to each other with strong glue. Thanks to the properties of the material, the connections between the parts are seamless, which means that it is possible to create a product of any size and shape. After all, the kitchen countertop looks very stylish, smoothly transitioning into the window sill, which in turn is connected to the bar counter, and this entire structure has no seams. This cannot be created from other materials!

Wide range of colors

One of the undoubted advantages of acrylic stone is its wide range of colors, more than 200 colors and shades. Even the most demanding buyer will be able to choose the desired shade for his product: a classic solid color, a bold bright shade or a variation on the theme of natural stone. In addition, the production technology allows you to combine different colors in one product, which will emphasize its exclusivity.

Variety of shapes

Using the property of acrylic stone to become elastic when heated, it can be given any shape. This allows designers to implement the most daring projects, and at home to create radius shapes of different sizes.

Environmental friendliness

One of the components of acrylic stone is aluminum trihydrate, a powder on the basis of which toothpaste is made. The basis of the material is acrylic resin, which is actively used in modern dentistry for installing fillings. The pigments used in the production of artificial stone are mainly of natural origin and are absolutely harmless to human health. The surface of acrylic stone does not emit any odors, not to mention the radiation background that occurs with some types of natural stone. All these properties are confirmed by the Russian Hygienic Certificate and international Certificates. Manufacturers comply with high environmental standards, starting with quality control of the raw materials used for the production process and ending with waste disposal.

Maintainability

Unlike natural stone, the surface of an acrylic stone product can be easily restored, and at the location of the product, without expensive dismantling and a long wait for the repaired item.


What is artificial stone?

Today, the “stone style” is very popular in the design of interiors, small architectural forms, and facades. But only natural stone is increasingly being replaced by artificial stone. Such a stone is a copy of a natural one, but is more accessible and practical to use. Artificial stone - what is it? This is a full-fledged imitation of natural stone, which in its properties, structure and appearance resembles natural stone. Items made from high-quality artificial stone evoke the complete illusion of naturalness, both in appearance and to the touch. Depending on the area of ​​application, developers of artificial stone use special materials with predetermined properties, so very often products made from such stone have a set of advantages that are completely absent from their natural counterparts. Here are some examples. Natural granite often has increased radioactivity. Artificial granite is free from this drawback. Artificial marble is much more durable and stronger than its natural counterparts. Artificial stone is usually warm to the touch, unlike its natural counterpart. Natural stone, for all its beauty, is very heavy.

What is Granicoat artificial stone?

Liquid stone (Granicoatâ) is a material created on the basis of polyester resins. Possessing the properties of natural and sheet coatings, it is much cheaper, and the technology of its use ensures virtually waste-free production. This is an original hard coating used for finishing purposes. Among the most interesting and attractive properties of Granicoatâ is the ability to create seamless surfaces of absolutely any size, in several planes, a combination of many colors, joining of various elements, and graphic works of any complexity.

Granicoat can add the elegant look of natural granite to almost any surface.

Granicoat, applied by spray, is available in 117 different standard colours.

Once sprayed, Granicoat allows for both matte and glossy finishes. By using it for castings, you can get any shape. Since this is a hard finishing material, it is not afraid of scratches and abrasions.

Granicoat is stain and corrosion resistant, colorfast, UV resistant and FDA approved.

So, the main characteristics of Granicoatâ include the following:

Hardness, impact resistance, resistance to mechanical stress, not afraid of scratches and abrasions;

Because Granicoat is spray applied, it has no seams and can be used in castings to create any shape;

Resistant to most aggressive environments: resistant to stains and corrosion, retains its color, Granicoat has been tested with the following substances, which had no residual effect: solvents - acetone, methanol, ethyl alcohol, naphtha, kerosene, gasoline; acids - citric, sulfuric 20%, phosphoric, hydrochloric, acetic; alkalis - sodium hydroxide, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydrochloride; others - ammonia, blood, coffee, lipstick, urea, wine;

Rich color palette: 117 colors;

Durability: Granicoat does not change over time, retains its color, is UV resistant and FDA approved;

Granicoat, in comparison with gel coatings used in fiberglass and artificial marble, has better performance and technical characteristics. This luxurious finishing material is easy to use and suitable for use in areas where high sanitary standards are required;

The Granicoat surface does not require special care, and therefore the cleaning process is extremely simple;

Granicoat is beautiful and durable, well suited for finishing furniture, kitchens, window sills, stair steps, fireplace portals, etc.;

Granicoat is truly unique, unlike durable spray-on materials, Granicoat's special qualities prevent the formation of drips when applied to the surface, providing a smooth surface. Once you apply it, it will remain beautiful.

Thanks to their unique properties, products and coatings from Granicoat have found the widest application in various fields of activity: finishing of bars, restaurants, boutiques, shops, hotels, catering establishments, healthcare systems, as working surfaces in operating rooms, clinics and dentistry, i.e. there , where the highest demands are placed on cleanliness of premises.

What is the Granicoat artificial stone spraying technology called, its features

Solid Surface Technology – a new class of manufacturing technology composite materials imitating natural stone. Represents original material with a continuous surface is a composite based on special fillers (granules of various colors and sizes) and resin (polyester, modified with acrylates) and is manufactured using a certain technology (by spraying onto the frame using spray equipment). Products made using Solid Surface technology have unique properties: strength, aesthetics and hygiene, maintainability, non-flammability and no design restrictions.

Physical and mechanical properties:

Composition (granules - 60%, polyester resin - 40%);

Flexural strength: 49-63 MPa;

Bending modulus: 7.7-10.5 GPa;

Thermal deformation temperature: 80-105 °C;

Barcol hardness: 48±10%;

Impact resistance: no damage (fall of a ball weighing 220 g from a height of 92 cm);

Thermal shock tests, cycles: 500-2000;

Cycle (10/60 °C).

Aesthetics and hygiene

The surface of products manufactured using Solid Surface technology is not affected by most acids, alkalis and other active chemical reagents. In addition, due to its non-porous nature, viruses and bacteria do not take root on the Solid Surface.

Maintainability

If defects (cracks, chips, etching spots, etc.) appear on the surface of products made using Solid Surface technology, they can be easily eliminated by sanding and polishing the defective spots. In the event of a chip, SS can be easily repaired, even to large pieces. Replacement and gluing can be done.

Design possibilities:

Single color marble;

Granite effect: many combinations of different color granules of different sizes;

Possibility of combining two or more effects described above.

In addition, you are free in your fantasies, the elements are easily milled, you can make any inserts, glue them and combine them. Solid Surface is a designers dream! You can bring to life everything that is doable and impossible from natural stone.

It can be stated that durable, beautiful, fashionable products made using Solid Surface technology create new standards in high-end design and finishing and expand the very understanding of these concepts.

Typical composition:

1. Fillers. The granules are specially selected according to their granulometric composition and color range (the composition is patented).

2. Resins. When manufacturing products using Solid Surface technology, special polyester resins modified with acrylates are used.

Consequently:

Increased strength properties;

Resistance to household pollutants and aggressive environments;

Increased moisture absorption properties;

Technology for manufacturing artificial stone products Granicoat

Main stages of the technological process:

1. Before starting work, you should prepare the surface of the future product (apply adhesive strips to increase more reliable adhesion of the material to the surface).

2. When the surface is prepared, primer (VASKSOAT) is applied to it. A primer applied to all exposed surfaces, including edges, protects the product from moisture and movement, creates an even background color and provides better adhesion of the material to the surface.

3. When the soil is dry, you can start spraying stone (GRANICOAT). As a result of spraying on the vertical planes and ends of the product, a layer of stone with a thickness of 2.5 to 3 mm is obtained.

4. Due to the textured surface of GRANICOAT, sanding is required after it has cured. To facilitate this process and facilitate the removal of the adhesive surface layer of the stone after hardening, a liquid mask (LIQUID MASK) should be applied over GRANICOAT as soon as it begins to harden. The liquid mask reduces sanding time, saves sanding paper and acetone, produces a harder, drier surface, and eliminates styrene odor during curing. The liquid mask is applied 20 minutes after spraying the stone with a regular paint gun with an upper or lower tank. Nozzle diameter - 1.3-1.6 mm. Pressure - 3-4 bar.

5. Once completely cured, begin sanding. For grinding, eccentric circular sanders with a pneumatic drive should be used. For a matte finish, use 80-120-240-320 sanding paper and sand the coated surface until it is smooth. For a glossy finish, use finer sandpaper counts and varying grit polishing compounds. Between sanding steps, clean the surface from contamination with compressed air. It is better if the vacuum cleaner is attached to a sanding machine.

Products made using Solid Surface technology have a number of advantages and can successfully replace traditional materials such as natural stone, ceramics, stainless steel, glass, cast marble, Corian, HPL (decorative plastic pressed by high pressure gluing).

Advantages of Granicoat artificial stone:

1. Advantages of SS over natural stone:

Natural stone is very heavy compared to SS (2700 kg/m3 compared to 1750);

The minimum thickness of natural stone products is 20 mm;

Natural stone is always porous, and as a result is not hygienically safe;

Joints and seams are very visible on natural stone. The seams on the SS are not noticeable;

Processing natural stone is complex and has limitations;

Natural stone can be destroyed by strong acid and cannot be restored. SS is also exposed to strong acid, but stains can be easily sanded off;

Natural stone is cold to the touch, SS products are warm.

2. Advantages of SS over ceramics:

Ceramics itself is inexpensive, but large costs are required for the manufacture of complex or large products, and large energy costs are also required during production;

It is not possible to produce a variety of color effects in small sizes;

Ceramics can only be used in a few solid colors;

Ceramics are very fragile and can easily break or crack;

Ceramic products cannot be restored;

Ceramics are heavy.

3. Advantages of SS over stainless steel:

Design when using steel is very limited: the metal cannot always be bent or assembled to the exact size you need;

Metal – only one color;

Steel is difficult to maintain: a light touch leaves imprints;

Steel cannot be repaired if dents form;

Steel can rust if it comes into contact with acid or salt.

4. Advantages of SS over glass:

Glass is heavy and very fragile;

Non-repairable in case of crack;

The effect of imitation glass can be achieved in polyester.

5. Advantages of SS over cast marble:

Cast marble is made from mineral filler (quartz sand, marble chips, etc.) and polyester resin. Polyester gelcoat is used as a protective coating.

Cast marble needs to be polished to achieve shine, but wears off quickly with everyday use;

SS is manufactured with a high gloss finish but can also be polished to achieve a high shine. A similar shine can be achieved again and again after sanding and polishing;

Cast marble has a very thin layer of expensive gelcoat;

When cracks form in the gelcoat, the underlying material is exposed, which is cheap and unattractive;

Restoring gelcoat is a very difficult process, especially if it has become stained or cracked;

SS can be easily restored, even down to large pieces. Replacement and gluing can be done;

Due to poor resistance to heat, cracks may occur in cast marble products;

The hardness of gelcoat is much lower than that of SS (Barcol hardness 40-45 as opposed to 60-70);

A product made of cast marble is very heavy (2000-2200 kg/m 3);

The reverse side of a cast marble product is most often not entirely attractive.

6. Advantages of SS over HPL (High Pressure Laminate - decorative plastic pressed by gluing under high pressure):

HPL is a very thin sheet that is glued to a specific surface (usually a wooden base).

HPL sheets have very high scratch resistance, but if a scratch occurs, the coating is not restored;

HPL kitchen surfaces have visible seams and joints;

The wooden base absorbs water and eventually cracks;

It is difficult to achieve color effects when using HPL;

When using HPL, it is difficult or impossible to obtain the desired design shapes.

7. Advantages of SS over Corian:

Corian is made from acrylic resins (thermoplastic materials); polyester resin – thermoset.

Corian is not resistant to boiling water, burning cigarettes, acid (50% H 2 SO 4);

Using Corian or other sheet manufacturers, there is no flexibility to cast certain products. All parts must be glued or thermoformed. Bathtubs and sinks are the most difficult products to make from acrylic sheets. Casting these products from SS is very simple;

With Corian, the quality of the final product does not depend on the quality of the sheet, it depends on the work.

Rules for caring for products made from “Liquid Stone”

Liquid stone requires a minimum of care to maintain its beauty. With proper care, artificial stone remains as beautiful over time as it was at the beginning. However, like any other material, it does not clean itself, but requires regular maintenance to maintain its impressive appearance.

Precautionary measures. The “liquid stone” surface is durable, but a strong blow with a heavy or sharp object can damage it and leave marks. Do not cut food directly on its surface. We also recommend running cold water first when pouring boiling water into the sink.

Elevated temperatures. Artificial stone is more resistant to elevated temperatures than conventional materials. However, do not place pots and pans directly removed from the stove or oven, or electric heating appliances (kettles, deep fryers, etc.) on it. Always use protective mats or trivets with rubber feet for hot pots or electric heating appliances.

Routine care.

Routine care of the surfaces of countertops, counters, sinks and washbasins made of “liquid stone” is very simple: wipe the surface with foam rubber and a detergent that does not contain abrasive materials. For the high-gloss finish, use the same procedure as for the semi-gloss finish, but use a simple sponge instead of an abrasive one. You can also use white polishing compound to remove stubborn stains with a soft cloth using light, circular motions. In this case, it may be necessary to polish the entire product to restore a uniform, shiny surface. In case of serious damage to the surface, see the repair section of the instructions. All sinks and washbasins made of artificial stone have a matte-silky finish. To remove stains, wipe the surface with a green Scotchbrite sponge and an abrasive cleaner. Periodically use a solution of water and bleach to clean sinks and washbasins. Fill the sink one-quarter full with the solution, let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse and wipe. If the inner surface of the washbasin is covered with solid sediment, fill it overnight with a solution of bleach or biological cleaning powder. Hard water can also form a coating on the surface of artificial stone, which can easily be removed with appropriate cleaning products (for example, Barkeeper's Friend, Viakal, Limelite) used according to the manufacturer's instructions. Wipe the entire surface with a green Scotchbrite sponge with cleaning agent, leave for a few minutes , and then rinse with clean water and wipe dry.

Removing scratches. The great quality of artificial stone is that it can be repaired in case of accidental damage. If accidental damage to the surface occurs, for example due to a sharp knife, etc., it can be repaired by a qualified technician. In such cases, contact your artificial stone supplier (seller, installer, manufacturer).

Repair. “Liquid stone” is a homogeneous and extremely durable material, insensitive to various types influences. However, if you accidentally somehow seriously damage your engineered stone surface, don't despair. Contact your dealer, installer or manufacturer of artificial stone. They have the experience and materials needed for almost any repair.

Types of artificial stone

Artificial stone can be sheet or cast. Sheet stones (Corian, Hi Maks, etc.) are supplied to Russia in sheets of certain sizes. Cast stone (artificial onyx, marble, granite) is produced by mixing components (resin, filler, etc.) in workshops in Russia.

Their common characteristics and their differences

At first glance, they are no different. All are made of resins, imitate natural stone, all are used for the manufacture of countertops, window sills and other interior items, and almost all are in the same price category, but this is at first glance an amateur. All artificial sheet materials limit the possibilities of manufacturing products from them, because to make a complex configuration they use technology - thermoforming. As for the casting material, it requires the manufacture of complex forms - “matrices”, into which the stone is then poured.

The advantage of the artificial stone Granicoat is that it is possible to either cast products from it (for example, bas-reliefs, sculptures, etc.) or produce products by spraying this material onto blanks, which allows you to bring to life any monoliths and at the same time combine an unlimited number of colors.

The main advantages of Granicoat over its competitors are its increased strength properties. Granicoat - created on the basis of polyester resins, is easily applied to any surface, quickly hardens, acquires best qualities and properties of natural stone. Granicoat is used in the manufacture of interior items and architectural environments: wall panels, countertops with monolithic sinks, bar and administrative counters, window sills, stair steps, railings, balusters, columns, furniture, etc. Granicoat allows you to give the appearance of natural stone to any product, it is unique in that it is applied to a surface of any shape and at the same time allows you to combine several colors, so you can create real masterpieces from it: sculptures, bas-reliefs, tabletops with complex patterns, used in vintage and much more.

Resistance to household pollutants, aggressive environments and increased moisture absorption properties. Granicoat is easy to clean, moisture-resistant and resistant to aggressive external influences, these properties prevent the appearance of stains, corrosion, mold, mildew and rust. Granicoat is widely used in institutions where special attention is paid to hygiene: hospitals, clinics, restaurants, cafes, SPA salons, etc.

Impact resistance environment and UV. Granicoat is the only polymer material that is not affected by frost and ultraviolet radiation and retains its original color throughout the entire period of use.

Maintainability: In case of damage, the surface is easily restored to its original condition. The longest warranty period for products among polymers is 15 years warranty.

Approved by the American Health Association and the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service of the Russian Federation.

What is adhesion?

Adhesion is the adhesion of dissimilar liquid or solid bodies at the points of contact of their surfaces. The adsorption theory of adhesion explains this phenomenon by intermolecular attraction, which also ensures the integrity of the substance (cohesion). The adhesion of two surfaces can be of a chemical, electrical, magnetic nature, caused by purely mechanical interaction of surfaces, or determined by all these factors. Under a microscope you can see that even very smooth surfaces are actually uneven and rough. When they come into contact, they do not contact over the entire area, but only at a limited number of points, and adhesion turns out to be insignificant. The adhesion of surfaces can be increased by introducing a layer of a binder - adhesive - between them.

Many substances are adhesives (substrates). Even water, wetting the surfaces, improves contact between them. However, water is not used as an adhesive: in its liquid state it evaporates quickly and has low shear strength. Solders are effective adhesives for metals (although they are not always considered adhesives in the literal sense of the word). from lat. adhaesio - adhesion), adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar bodies. Thanks to adhesion, it is possible to apply galvanic and paint coatings, gluing, welding, etc., as well as the formation of surface films (for example, oxide).

Stone composition: styrene monomer (24%), methyl metal acrylate (4%), polyester resin (72%), galaxy granules, inorganic filler, pigment.

Primer composition: styrene monomer (32%), polyester resin (curable) (72%), inorganic filler, pigment.

Stone consumption per 1 m2: To process 1 m2 of surface, 4-5 kg ​​of stone is required.

Soil consumption per 1 m2: To process 1 m 2 of surface, 1.5-2 kg of soil is required.

What is polymerization?

Polymerization is the reaction of the formation of high-molecular compounds by sequential addition of monomer molecules to a growing chain. Polymerization is a chain process and occurs in several stages (similar to the stages of a chain reaction of free radical halogenation of alkanes, initiation of chain growth, chain termination.

Characteristic signs of polymerization:

1. The basis of polymerization is the addition reaction.

2. Polymerization is a chain process because it includes the stages of initiation, growth and chain termination.

3. The elemental composition (molecular formulas) of the monomer and polymer are the same.

When carrying out polymerization, the effects of heat and chemicals (catalysts or initiators) are combined. The polymerization process is greatly influenced by temperature, which sharply increases either the rate of chain growth or chain termination of the polymer, which leads to a decrease in the molecular weight of the polymer and the average degree of polymerization, therefore maintaining an optimal process temperature. The use of complex catalysts consisting of organometallic compounds Al(C 2 H 5) 3 and metal chlorides of variable valence (TiCI 2, TiCl 4) ensures the production of polymers with a strictly linear structure and symmetrical spatial orientation. Such polymers are called stereoregular. They have great strength, density, high melting point and are easy to navigate when pulled. In industry, block, emulsion, varnish, drop or bead polymerizations are used. Droplet (suspension) polymerization uses initiators that are soluble in the monomer but insoluble in water. Polymerization occurs independently in each large monomer droplet measuring from 0.05 to 0.3 cm.

What are polyester resins?

Unsaturated polyester resins, 50-70% solutions of polyesters - products of polycondensation of glycols with maleic or fumaric acid (solvents - monomers, mainly styrene). Cured polyester resins are durable, waterproof, chemically resistant materials with good adhesion to various surfaces and high dielectric properties. They are used in the production of fiberglass, varnishes, compounds, and adhesives. Polyester resin used to make Granicoat products.

When manufacturing Granicoat artificial stone products using Solid Surface technology, special polyester resins are used on an isophthalic base modified with acrylates. As a result, products made from such polyester resins have the following properties:

Increased strength;

Resistance to household pollution;

Increased resistance to moisture absorption;

Environmental and UV resistance.

Description of polyester resin

Acrylic modified polyester resin based on isophthalic acid and neopentyl glycol, pre-accelerated, non-thixotropic. Polyester resin has good air release and good etch resistance, excellent mechanical properties and high thermal distortion temperature. This polyester resin, with the correct technology of use, makes it possible to produce castings with a solid surface free of voids under vacuum conditions. When properly mixed with polyester resin and filler, used with a catalyst and cured, products made from polyester resins using Solid Surface Technology meet all ANSI 124.6 testing standards, including etch resistance and heat shock testing. To achieve optimal resistance to etching, additional post-curing of the polyester resin product is necessary for four hours at a temperature of 80 o C. The resin for Solid Surface technology is a polyester resin stabilized to ultraviolet radiation.

Why is a primer needed?

BACKCOAT Primer, applied to all exposed surfaces, including edges, protects the product from moisture and movement, creates an even background color and provides better adhesion of the material to the surface. A primer applied to the back of the piece helps prevent warping or warping (that is, it creates resistance against the face of the stone).

What is used for blanks?

The following materials can be used for blanks: wood, MDF, masonry, porcelain, ceramic tile, cinder blocks.

What is included in the equipment?

Binks 7N gun, catalyst tank, material tank, acetone barrel, moisture-oil separator, set of connecting hoses.

Equipment weight

The spray equipment set consists of 4 boxes.

The box sizes are as follows:

1st box – 580x580x350;

2nd, 3rd boxes – 300x300x550;

4th box – 500x500x250.

The total weight of the equipment is 40 kg.

What are the requirements for the production premises?

For spraying you need a closed room with an area of ​​about 10 square meters. m with good ventilation. The air temperature should not be lower than 18 ˚С. For large production volumes, you may need additional space for grinding work.

What properties does a liquid stone product have?

The surface treated with Granicoat liquid stone is fire and impact resistant, stain and corrosion resistant, and resistant to mechanical stress.

Flammability classes:

1. Non-combustible building materials - grade A.

2. Combustible building materials and foundations.

Combustible building materials and bases are divided into four groups according to the degree of flammability:

Grade B - not easily flammable;

Degree C 1 – difficult to combust;

Degree C 2 - moderately flammable;

Degree C 3 - highly flammable.

What flammability class does liquid stone belong to?

Flammability class 1C - difficult to combust.

What hazard class does Granicoat belong to?

Dangerous goods according to the requirements of GOST 19433-88 “Dangerous goods. Classification and labeling" and the European Agreement concerning the International Carriage of Dangerous Goods by Road - "ADR" (Road Carriage of Dangerous Goods) are divided into the following classes:

Class 1 - explosive materials (EM);

Class 2 - gases, compressed, liquefied and dissolved under pressure;

Class 3 - flammable liquids (flammable liquids);

Class 4 - flammable solids (FLS), spontaneously combustible substances (SV); substances that emit flammable gases when interacting with water;

Class 5 - oxidizing substances (OC) and organic peroxides (OP);

Class 6 - toxic substances(YV) and infectious substances (IS);

Class 7 - radioactive materials (RM);

Class 8 - caustic and (or) corrosive substances (EC);

Class 9 - other hazardous substances.

Flammability - 3 flammable liquids (flammable liquids).

Weight of the finished product 1 m2: 10-22 kg.

What is gelcoat?

Gelcoat is a decorative and protective coating based on unsaturated polyester resin, molded on the surface of the composite to protect it from environmental influences, ultraviolet rays and impart decorative properties.

Almost any type of artificial stone is a mixture of mineral filler with natural or synthetic binder. Such materials imitate natural stones and are also used in exterior and interior decoration of houses. Artificial stones are divided according to the composition of their components, types of materials, and production techniques. Any artificial stone, regardless of where it will be used, must be strong and durable. If there are visible errors, it is better to avoid this material.

The most used stones are:


Artificial stone production technology

Acrylic-based stone is produced using the casting principle.

This material is similar to plastic, but has a mineral base and for this reason is classified as artificial stone. This material easily takes any shape and any structure can be made from it, even with the most non-standard shapes.

  • The agglomerate is made using the vibration compaction method in a vacuum space. After this, the stone is sent to the furnace for polymerization of the components.
  • Cast marble belongs to the category of polymer concrete. Produced using vibration casting. This material practically does not conduct heat. Absolutely does not absorb water. And the most important plus is high wear resistance. Cast marble is afraid of sudden changes in temperature.
  • Gypsum stone and concrete-based stones can be produced independently and of absolutely any size and shape. They are produced by pressing and do not require heat treatment.

Advantages of artificial stone

Almost any type of artificial stone can be produced in the form of thin slabs. When mounted on any surface, this fact allows you to safely use this material. The texture and color can resemble natural stone or have the most unusual, but at the same time uniquely beautiful appearance. If desired, this material can be produced on site where it will be used in the future. If you don’t want to additionally grind, saw and polish the stone, you can make it perfectly smooth and shiny. Any artificial stone can be connected, built up, and the connection point will be invisible.

Tips for choosing artificial stone and its installation

Very thin material glued to a pressed wood base may lose its appearance over time due to swelling of the base, especially when using the material as a tabletop. Any material must be selected in accordance with the type of use, since the thickness of the material for walls or window sills differs significantly.

Materials used outdoors must also comply with the parameters, unless they imitate natural boulders or large stones of non-standard shape. Artificial stone, regardless of the type and production technology, always and everywhere finds its application. In addition, many are inclined to choose this particular material, since the price of such stones is not as high as that of natural ones.